Terroir-istes International - Australia-Bordeaux Blends

A look at Australian Bordeaux Blends from vintages 2004 back to 1996 across a range of regions.

• 2004 Grosset Gaia 88 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley

  (Tasted Blind): Mid+ ruby red colour; A bouquet showing sweet spices, stewed plum, blackcurrant, menthol/eucalyptus and some development - Barossa?
  The entry has warmed black fruits spiced with sinewy tannins that seem slightly bitter-edged. Fair concentration, the fruit is fading a little, and notes of dried earth and baked clay start to rise. A reasonably striking acidity makes the wine linear to almost a tad lean, accentuated by the fading fruit. Closes medium to long with notes of bitter chocolate. Medium-bodied, to an extent elegant.

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• 2003 Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 91 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  (Tasted Blind): A deep garnet colour with aromas of dark chocolate, five spice and sweet spice towards mocha, pencil shavings, red baked soils and pottery clay.
  The palate displays some tertiary elements, too, with mocha, earthy feel towards a sandy texture with a subtle yet noticeable acidity.
  Fair concentration, the mid-palate has sweet spices, blackcurrant, and graphite, with a baked earth soil sensation. A reasonably long wine, it gives the impression of drying out and takes on a more rustic element.

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• 2002 Alkoomi Blackbutt 89 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Frankland River

  (Tasted Blind): A deep garnet colour with aromas of blackcurrants, dry tree bark, dried earth and spices.
  A delightful palate structure with plenty of fleshy black fruits and spices accentuated, showing sweet nutmeg, cinnamon and some roasted herbs. There is an earthy edge that combines with dark (70%) chocolate and a fleshiness that extends to the mid-palate that is showing nicely. With good concentration and a long finish, I was concerned that the wine fell away a little. 14% ALC. 44 CS, 26 CF, 22 Malbec, 8 Merlot

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• 2002 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 88 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  (Tasted Blind): Deep black-red colour. A fragrant nose with eucalyptus, tar, jujube fruit and a hint of rubber initially. It shows a touch of evolution with warmed fruits but not baked ones. The entry is full-bodied with savoury elements, excellent intensity, moderate well-integrated alcohol, and a long and rich finish, perhaps slightly forced. I find the wine relatively simple with sweet black fruits. Origin uncertain but pushes more to Margaret River. I suspected cork taint as it opened, but it marked it as is. 13% Alc.

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• 2002 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 90 Points

  Australia, South Australia

  (Tasted Blind): A deep garnet in the glass with attractive lifted elements of cassis, blackberries, menthol, toasty oak and wafts of wood smoke.
  It exhibits a delightful sweetness on entry is full-bodied, intense, and ripe, with a richly concentrated core and sweet tannins. The mid-palate has toasty notes, olive tapenade, menthol and spices that linger and the oak is well-integrated into the background. A long, sweet finish and smooth flow along the palate., the wine shows an ideal development, possibly from 2002. The wine is impressive and complex.

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• 2000 Yeringberg 85 Points

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley

  (Tasted Blind): Light to medium garnet colour. There is some noted development with stewed fruit, tar and damp undergrowth. The entry is all sweet, overripe fruits that are relatively simple. A cooler clay edge and a sinewy texture give a forced and stretched quality. Whilst there is still richness, the wine appears a little dried out, showing signs of tiring. I also picked up a feral toward Brettanomyces character, which seemed fine initially but detracted further in the glass—a short finish.
  Blend of CS, CF, Malbec.

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• 1998 Tim Adams Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley

  (Tasted Blind): Deep garnet colour; a fabulous and penetrating bouquet with plenty of black fruit: blackcurrant, cassis and bitter chocolate with a eucalyptus overlay.
  The palate displays a concentrated fruit profile with plenty of complexity and continues the theme of eucalyptus and blackcurrants. It has a linear palate shape with an ample, fleshy core, fresh acidity and firm, powdery tannins to give it a frame. With a long winding finish, the wine suggests it has further ageing potential.
  13.5% alcohol, 87% CS, 8% Malbec, rest CF

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• 1998 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth 91 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra

  (Tasted Blind): A deep garnet-coloured wine. A savoury approach with warm fruit aromas reminiscent of stewed plums and blackcurrant pie combined with fresh earth, dried undergrowth, forest fruits and dried meats.
  The palate shows some wood bark and oak elements, which is interesting given its potential age, and the tertiary mix. Flavours of Christmas cake, raisins, dates, dried figs, cinnamon stick and mocha, and a continuous undergrowth character. A warm alcohol sensation countered with a fresh acidity, yet only light tannins close with orange and chocolate towards a chili chocolate. It is relatively complex and classy yet showing some signs of age.

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• 1998 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 89 Points

  Australia, South Australia

  (Tasted Blind): A deep garnet colour towards a brown rim, indicating definite age. Tertiary bouquet of liquorice, umami, and marmite.
  On the palate is a presence of dry old wood, dried earth and liquorice bark. Plenty of fresh acid and firm tannins give structure, whilst the wine is complex with flavours of undergrowth, sage, rosemary, and even hints of vegemite. The fruit is drying out, closing with soy and cigar boxes. Some felt the firmer tannin and acid may help further ageing, but I was sceptical!
  1998 is considered a top vintage, but I preferred the 1996

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• 1996 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 407 91 Points

  Australia, South Australia

  (Tasted Blind): A deep red-black wine with menthol notes, black fruits, undergrowth, and forest fruits. It is an intense wine that follows through on the palate. It is a fleshy wine with plenty of fruit, fair concentration, and a pleasant combination of milk and dark chocolate flavours with a smidgeon of vanilla and coffee grinds. The tannins are sweet and firm, providing a warm, soupy, savoury element on the back palate. Certainly tertiary, the wine is towards the end of its journey. Fairly juicy on the long finish.

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• 1996 Lindeman's Cabernet Sauvignon St. George 91 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra

  (Tasted Blind): Deep ruby-black colour showing aromas of dark chocolate, mocha, undergrowth and black fruits.
  The palate is complex and enticing and displays excellent fruit concentration, intensity, and power. The mid-palate is juicy and fleshy, with a prominent fruit core emphasising blackcurrant and berry notes, black plum, mocha, vanilla and tobacco with a hint of eucalyptus—pliable tannins with a grip reminiscent of limestone. Perhaps not the depth of some wines; the finish is long and savoury.

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