Jadotfest 2023

Noizé, London
Tasted Thursday, December 7, 2023 by oenanthe with 52 views

Introduction

My first annual 'Jadotfest' and hopefully the first of many. Simple format - bring a wine made by Jadot, but their breadth is such that you get a wonderful suite of wines. For some reason I only have a handful in my cellar, perhaps the perception of "big business" and the negotiant element has put me off, but frankly more fool me as the wines are wonderful.

Table 2 - Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot

Flight 1 - A commencer (1 Note)

Flight 2 - A singular flight (1 Note)

Crab cake, bitter leaves and orange salad. Brown crab sauce.

  • 2009 Louis Jadot Montrachet 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    A great colour, glinting light gold, almost as if just bottled. Smoke, vanilla and spice on the nose, citrus and a mild reduction. Classic white burgundy, couldn't be anything else - I could sniff this for hours frankly but time marches on. On the palate ridiculously youthful, the pristine cork looked eternal, this will go on for years. Totally delicious, sharp and spicy, a little unctuous, but overall a lovely balance of richesse and purity. All sorts of citrus going on but I settled on flavours of orange peel and lime. Crazy length finish persisting long after the wine is gone. This seemed so young, almost too young, but it's unfortunately not the kind of wine that most people, me included, are going to be able to buy a dozen of and watch evolve over many years. The only still white wine of the evening but my WOTN despite some serious competion. A massive treat to be able to taste.

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Flight 3 - Clos des Ursules (2 Notes)

Wild mushroom fettucini, cep foam

  • 2011 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

    Medium red. A nose of raspberry with tranfers to the palate with sour cherry, where a lovely bitterness develops finishing with tannic lick that remains a bit furry. Crunchy and crisp, strongly acidic with a hint of the untamed, in common with a few of the wines this also felt really youthful and perhaps not even ready at this point.

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  • 1998 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

    Medium red, sweetness and a bit of meaty leathiness. This has developed some high-toned polish, it's slick, sleek and delicious, retaining excellent crispness alongside some signs of aging - a harmonious tang of sweet tannins, fruit and acidity. That said, I wouldn't have guessed 1998, these Jadot wines seem to be very long-lived and age-worthy, and this had plenty left in the tank. My third favourite wine of the night.

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Flight 4 - Reds 2 (2 Notes)

Venison Wellington

  • 2015 Louis Jadot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Guettes Domaine Gagey 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru

    Medium red. Very easy wine, with cranberry, raspberry and forest floor. Surprising depth, some backbone, though not at the level of the appellations of its grander cousins. This also felt really young though and not fully resolved, and whilst pretty easy on the palate did not at this stage have the immediate solaire appeal that I find common in the 2015 vintage. My first bottle of this and I'll leave it a good while until the next one I think, it needs more time.

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  • 2009 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Celebration 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

    Medium red. Some dark and meaty elements on the nose, smoke and ash. Like the 1998 Ursules I find a high-toned glossy element here. This is sharp and focussed, with lovely rich fruit - it is a blend of something like 15 1er Cru, the vineyards in script partially forming the hair of the Jadot 'Gargoyle' - and more smoked meat. This is barely at the start of what will surely be a long drinking window. A magnum might live forever!

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Flight 5 - Reds 3 (2 Notes)

Fromages

  • 1967 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    Poured pale, clear almost like water, and fragile, with a fair amount of matter. Whatever vibes you got from the colour you can forget about them when you taste it, there is genuine substance and this is undeniably red burgundy, with soft red fruits, violets and a really resolved savoury touch. Amazingly still with us, soft and welcoming, like an old sofa and it kind of smells like that too. Older than me - much older! - and still going, it didn't even fade in the glass, in fact it might even have gained a bit. Quite extraordinary and an absolute pleasure and special treat.

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  • 2002 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Beautiful wine, depth and grandeur, vibrant with lots of life, there is polished and sleek and dark red fruit, a lick of sweet high-toned varnish, considerable freshness and a purity that just makes you stop and think about how good it is. Ooof. Of all the wines tonight this was arguably in the best spot for drinking, when you manage to somehow (and against the odds!) hit red burgundy at peak it is a really special moment. My red WOTN. Just brilliant.

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Flight 6 - Fin (1 Note)

  • 1988 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Burnished brass. Creme brulée and apple pie. In fact it made me want apple pie, or something along the lines of a tarte tatin. Fine sweetness, tropicality and apricots with some body and weight, however not heavy. Small sips only at this stage, very nice.

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Closing

Many thanks to our sadly absent host Richard who was not well enough to make it, absolutely gutting but in his own words, or maybe somebody else's, the show must go on. What I took away from this is that Jadot is *very* good in Beaune, and can be spectacular elsewhere, and that the wines are immensely age-worthy. Huge thanks to my fellow diners for their amazing vinous generousity and company, and to Mathieu and the team at Noizé for their cooking and impeccable hospitality. I cannot wait until next year.

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