Terroir-istes International - France, Burgundy, Pommard
The Fat Butcher, Stellenbosch
Tasted Tuesday, December 4, 2018 by rikipedia with 42 views
Introduction
This is the first of a series of tastings on red Burgundy.
Today is focus on Pommard.
Introduction: Pommard, officially recognized as an AOC in 1936. Only makes red wines. Known for its deep, powerful Pinot Noir expressions. There are no Grand Cru sites but an impressive array of Premier Cru sites (135 hectares in total) with nearly 200 ha. Of Village sites. Total 330 hectares. 30,000 cases, 2nd largest area after beaune.
The vineyards of Pommard are characterised by steep slopes and varied expositions, offering a diverse range of microclimates. The better sites are on the lower slopes as they are sheltered from winds and storms. The plantings are 9000 vines per hectares. The soils predominantly consist of iron-rich limestone and clay, contributing to the wines' firm tannic structure and distinct minerality. Pommard wines are known for their bold and masculine character, often displaying dark fruit flavors, robust tannins, and a pronounced earthy undertone. If the percentage of the active limestone is high, its reaction with clay produces the fullness and sturdiness character.
Well known Premier Crus include:
- Les Regions: which has a high iron content. Flavour: Dusty and earthy, dopily, red fruit complex, baked by tannic power: Jean Marc most concentred, rich smoked flavours, Bouchard:
- Les Epenots: Owned by Comte Armand: Flavour profile: earthy, charatcer, cherries, intensity depth and concentration, some herbal.
- Les Jarollieres: Domaine jean marc Boillet, Pousse d’or: silky refined texture, different from masculine styles ripe dense flavours that age well
- Les Chandliens: at south end of Pommard, steeper slopes, rocky, vineyard structure full bodied red sine, spicy, between Volany and Les rugiens, falls some way between the two. mineral rich clay gives minerallity to this.
Producers:
- Christopher Doisy, 12 hectares - 4 different AC
- Domaine de Courcel: 16th century, 9 hectares, all in Pommard, some of top sites: Yves Confuron is the winemaker Les Grand Clos des Epenots, monopole.5 hectares,
- Domaine des Epeneaux: Comte Armaud: owns this clos, monopole, legendary land, Benjamin Leroux makes the wines.
Notable other producers include Domaine de la Comtesse de Chérisey, Domaine de Montille.
Tonights tasting will look at 5 Domaines from the vintage 2009 to 2015 of which all are premier Cru apart from one
2012 Christophe Vaudoisey Pommard 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
(Tasted Blind): A light ruby colour towards an orange rim. A deep, brooding nose with black cherry, damp soil, dark chocolate and earthy tones. A light to medium-bodied wine with sinewy black cherry stone and skin, some cooler fruit giving freshness and framed by dense, powdery tannins and a tart acidity, indicative of a cooler year. Intense with plenty going on, this is a muscular wine with a gravelly, earthy element, although the finish is shorter than expected with an unusual hint of English gooseberry. Flavours of red fruits, spiciness, and a citrus oil note join the fray. Altogether, the quality is a coarser village level, with a bracing slightly unbalanced acidity and drying tannins with a hint of acetone, all lending to some austerity on the back - palate and lacking enough fleshy to back it up. Very traditional styling.
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2012 Christophe Vaudoisey Pommard 1er Cru Les Chanlins 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
(Tasted Blind): A light+ ruby red colour. Subtly perfumed and gentle with an attractive black cherry and blackberry core, suggesting a ripeness to the fruit indicative of warmer vintages. Also notes of paprika add a spicy touch. Some development. The palate shows some age but garners a vibrant acidity and sinewy richness. Flavours of black cherry, soy tabasco, earth, paprika, and sweet spice contribute to a complex profile. Medium-bodied, the wine has a mid to long finish with tannins that feel coarser, giving an earthy, granular texture. Still quite dense, this suggests a good vineyard, though perhaps not a top producer. Closes with iron filings and a dab of raspberry compote. To some, it felt like a lighter style, akin to a Barolo with that "iron fist in a velvet glove." The cellar is located in Volnay and they own 11 hectares in Vol,nay, Pommard and Meursault. 15-day maceration, daily punch downs. Fully destemmed.
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2015 Christophe Vaudoisey Pommard 1er Cru Les Chanlins 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
(Tasted Blind): A light but bright purple-red colour. A pretty, lifted nose that is youthful and vibrant with aromas that jump out of the glass: red and black cherry mingle with earthiness, gentle spice, kirsch and some forest berries. A strident acidity on entry balanced with fresh red cherry fruit that morphs to savoury earth, oak spices and minerals. Texturally dense wine, rich and succulent, there is that Pommard fibrous tannin and masculine frame with a twist of bitter cherry stone. Finishes persistent and remains ever youthful.
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