Cathiard Malconsorts Vertical

Longo Seafood
Tasted Tuesday, December 19, 2023 by Robert Pavlovich with 65 views

Introduction

A five vintage vertical of Cathiard Malconsorts of 2001, 2007, 2008, 2014, and 2019.

Flight 1 - The 00's (3 Notes)

The 2001 showed great and in its prime on the palate, high class aged burgundy with so many things coming together brilliantly, except for the armos. My pick of the tasting, however the 2007 was a close second with its kaleidoscopic aromatics.

  • 2001 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Not especially expressive on the nose, the palate however is decisively fresh and in its prime. The antithesis of red burgundy today, it almost leads with its steely acidity and there's a slight firmness to the tannins, helping give good follow through and energy throughout. While the fruit is more restrained, there is plenty of it to balance its medium to plus bodied frame. The finish is laced with soil driven spice, which lingers gracefully without a ton of intensity but it still shows its liveliness. It's a satiny textured, old school aged burgundy, and being a premier cru, pretty much the pinnacle for its class.

    In a vertical with a 2007, 2008, 2014, and 2019 this was probably showing best on the palate. No real bottle prep, enjoyed and held well over a three hour lunch. From a single cellar bought on release.

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  • 2007 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Where the 2001's strength was on the palate, here on the 2007 it was on the nose. Beautiful, multi-dimensional fragrance from pop n pour that continued over the three hour tasting. It's a wine that shows its class, but also clearly shows the vintage, with lots of elements coming together in a fresh and seemingly finished package. The wine is laced with herbs (causing some to guess stems), soil/spice, and has a more reserved fruit expression similar to the 2001, but with slightly sweeter fruit and less assertive acidity. Not especially long or complex on the palate, it still possesses an aristocratic air to it, and unsurprisingly, acting like an excellent 2007.

    Served second in a vertical with a 2001, 2008, 2014, and 2019 this showed the best aromatics, my overall #2 of the tasting.

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  • 2008 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Served in a vertical with a 2001, 2007, 2014, and 2019 we think we got an off bottle with the 2008. Not very complex or showy like the others. Some guessed mildly corked, or seemingly advanced. Either way, it had a deadness to it that doesn't fit the other notes here. Consistent over three hours.

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Flight 2 - The 10's (2 Notes)

Only two vintages here but they showed a slightly higher level of fruit concentration and focus, consistent with modern burgundy, though both had good underlying acidity. Like modern classics.

  • 2014 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Served last in a vertical, this seemed to be a good midpoint between the 00's and the 2019, though more resembling the newer style here, it seems to show another level of fruit concentration and refinement, along with the elevated freshness of the vintage. Really well put together and with a real solidity to it, this was nice to check in on with the potential clearly showing. Figures to benefit from another 5-10 years in the cellar.

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  • 2019 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Served as the youngest wine in a five vintage vertical, this was showing surprisingly more expressive than shut down, in a style pretty consistent with the 2014, just a bit more fruit concentration but still with good underlying acidic freshness underneath. More of a modern classic than a wine pushing the envelope of ripeness such as a CLB. The oak is also seemingly well integrated here, and for all five of the wines. Continue to hold these as the wine seems to be just past its early and overtly expressive stage that the 21's figure to be entering now.

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Closing

All wines showed well and very true to the vintage with only the 2008 not showing up to expectations.

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