Dinner with some very old Seguin Manuel burgundies

A dinner with Linden Wilkie and seven others to polish off the last of his Seguin Manuel burgundies. I had virtually no experience of burgundies of this age and was quite unprepared for how youthful they were. All were bright red in colour, and all exhibited pure fresh pinot fruit. Not a hint of oxidation on any of them. Indeed, I can imagine some people being disappointed at the lack of tertiary development.

The food was a grazing menu of small fancy courses, fish based, and were rather good. I'm not sure that they actively enhanced the burgundies, but they went well enough together. A super evening all round.

• 1990 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 90 Points

  France, Champagne

  Oxidative nose, but finely textured and vigorous. Some thought the second bottle less fresh, but it seemed to me pretty similar, a touch leaner, and with a hint of earthiness.

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• 1955 Seguin-Manuel Beaune Grèves 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune

  A hint of earth, but mainly beautifully pure bright cherry fruit (and there really was plenty of fruit), broad fragrance, mouthwatering - lovely balance - showing no sign of age

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• 1929 Seguin-Manuel Corton-Maréchaudes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  This had an intriguing cordite tone - reminded me of a box of fireworks - some tightness on the palate - someone mentioned blood and iron which seemed right - this too was bright and alive, though it finished quite short - in the glass this gave off an enticing smoke 'n' pinot fragrance

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• 1955 Seguin-Manuel Mazis-Chambertin 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Intense cherry and strawberry fragrance, plush with some sweetness - not wild like the Maume Mazis, but it did have some of the briariness - another bottle that was pure fresh and amazingly youthful for its age

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• 1945 Seguin-Manuel Charmes-Chambertin 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Gentle, pure, smooth, pretty pinot sweet fruit - very attractive, but not substantial

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• 1947 Seguin-Manuel Charmes-Chambertin 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  A hint of uncleanness on the nose - "like a fingered 2p piece" - but this blew off and it was very similar to the 1945 - pure, gentle, sweet, but light

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• 1955 Domaine Louis Max Corton 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Sharp celery nose - stalky like a 2004 - but lots of fruit present, and it finished quite sweet. Some barnyard smells developed, and some smoky liquorice tones. I grew to like this, despite the sniffiness of some of the others

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• 1961 Seguin-Manuel Clos St. Denis 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

  Earthy and meaty nose, piercing vibrant redcurrant fruit, the merest hint of gaminess to add substance to the pure fruit, a touch of sweetness on the finish - ohh, this was so lovely

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• 1934 Seguin-Manuel Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Bright, almost grapey, beautiful, silky pure pinotness, lovely balance and poise

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