Calaveras County Wine Tasting

The Twisted Oak Winery, and Murphys, CA.
Tasted Friday, July 4, 2008 by RajivAyyangar with 641 views

Introduction

Tasted with J. Avey. It was a hot, sunny day, and all the pourers were very friendly. All the pours were 1 oz, which made smelling a bit on the difficult side. A very different approach than at La Honda and Chaine d'Or, where the pours were quite generous - sometimes almost a full glass. Didn't see any spitters - even the pourers.

Flight 1 - Twisted Oak (at the winery and some at the Murphys tasting room) (11 Notes)

What a crazy winery! I love the humor and the obsession with rubber chickens!

  • 2006 Twisted Oak Verdelho Silvaspoons Vineyard 83 Points

    USA, California, Central Valley, Alta Mesa

    Light color
    papaya-, grass-, pineapple-, grapefruit--. Nice and clean on the nose.
    great mp fruit. high acid. low+ sweetness. med-body. Nice! $16

    Specs: (from the Geek Sheet):

    RS[%]: 0.03
    ALC: 13.4
    BRIX: 23.4
    TA[%]: .62
    VA[%]: .041
    pH: 3.31
    100% steel, no oak.

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  • 2006 Twisted Oak Viognier 84 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Light straw in the glass.
    delicious nose of rice, mango, pineapple, slight vanilla/cream.
    med- alcohol, but med+ viscosity (love the oiliness of viognier!). Low+ sweetness. Fruit lingers on finish. Very nice and complex. Sweet for me. $22.

    RS[%]: 0.04
    ALC: 14.1
    BRIX: 24.5
    TA[%]: .58
    VA[%]: .047
    pH: 3.48
    15% new fr oak, 85% neutral, 7months. (explains creamy secondary flavors. Malo?)

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  • 2006 Twisted Oak %@#$! 79 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills

    Known colloquially as "The Shit," this medium-straw-colored wine brought a blurred combination of tropical fruit on the nose. In the mouth it seriously lacked concentration and acidity. The midpalate was flabby and completely hollow- devoid of acid or fruit, though the finish was nicely acidic and clean. I did not think this wine was the shit. $24

    RS[%]: 0.02
    ALC: 13.6 - didn't seem hot, seemed soft.
    BRIX: 23.7
    TA[%]: .52 - didn't show up on midpalate at all.
    VA[%]: .045
    pH: 3.62 - high for a white, I think.
    20% new fr oak, 80% neutral, 7months.

    Marsanne, roussanne, rolle, viognier.

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  • 2005 Twisted Oak Grenache 75 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Medium garnet, tinged with purple in the glass, this Grenache had an uninspiring nose of rubber and plastic. In the palate it tasted vaguely oxidized, or at least tired. Light and watery in the mouth, it finished with grippy med tannins. Not fun. I retasted a few hours later at the Murphys tasting room, and this time percieved the nose as having more brown sugar and a little floral character. However there was still a weird smell that only registered as "chemical" in my mind. In the mouth, this time, it tasted off. $24

    RS[%]: 0.02
    ALC: 14.4
    BRIX: 26.1
    TA[%]: .54
    VA[%]: .082
    pH: 3.75

    20% new fr oak, 11 months.
    80:20 Grenache/Syrah

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  • 2005 Twisted Oak *%#&@! 88 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills

    This twisted wine, known colloquially as "The Fuck," was med+ garnet/purple in the glass. The nose was a duet of mellow brett and fruit - cherries and blackberries. In the mouth, this wine was light yet beautifully concentrated, with bright acidity and firm med- tannins. Cherries and strawberries shined through in the midpalate. My only complaint was that brett lingered the longest on the finish. Though I don't mind brett, that's not the way I want to finish a wine. This was the only wine I picked up from the Murphys trip, and I can't wait to try it with food! $24

    RS[%]: 0.03
    ALC: 14.1
    BRIX: 25.1
    TA[%]: .59
    VA[%]: .073
    pH: 3.62
    20% new fr oak,20% 1-yr, 30% 2-yr. 11 months.
    Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache

    "Pairs and rhymes with duck!" - from the geek sheet. Gotta love this producer's sense of humor.

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  • 2005 Twisted Oak Tempranillo 79 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Dark garnet in the glass, this wine was oxidized the first time I tasted it. When I retasted it at the Murphys tasting room, I smelled faint brett on the nose, dominated by mustard and corn chips. Light in the mouth with a short finish and low+ tannins. I didn't get this wine at all. I hope I can taste it again sometime. $24

    RS[%]: 0.02
    ALC: 13.7
    BRIX: 24.2
    TA[%]: .51
    VA[%]: .071
    pH: 3.75
    30% new amer, 10% new fr. 12 months.
    90:10 Tempranillo/cab

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  • 2006 Twisted Oak Grenache Torcido

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    This is a puzzling one. The pourer told me confidently that this wine won two gold medals, and that everyone loves it. Dark garnet/purple in the glass, this wine displayed a nose of fertilizer, bacon fat, and clear oxidization. At first I thought my palate was still hanging on to the tempranillo, though I rinsed my glass until it smelled clean. I retasted the Torcido several hours later in the Murphys tasting room. The nose was clearly oxidized here as well. Both pourers said the wine smelled and tasted as it always did, leading me to believe the entire batch suffered oxidization. I'm really perplexed and disappointed. $32, no geek sheet.

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  • 2005 Twisted Oak Murgatroyd 81 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Dark garnet/purple in the glass, this wine has a vegetal nose with hints of asparagus and Brett. In the mouth it is nice and extracted with med+ acid and low+ tannins. Ok. $24. No geek sheet.

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  • 2004 Twisted Oak Syrah 84 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Dark purple-garnet in the glass. Couldn't pick up anything on the nose. On the palate, some sweet, candied jalapenos (always love them!) and sour cherries. Med- tannins. Pretty good, but no nose.$24.

    RS[%]: 0.02
    ALC: 14.2
    BRIX: 25.1
    TA[%]: .57
    VA[%]: .073
    pH: 3.71
    20% new Amer, 20% new hungarian. 60% 2-yr amer/hung. 19 months!
    100% Syrah

    Fermented with 20% of the berries uncrushed (just destemmed), then pressed after fermentation. Malo.

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  • 2005 Twisted Oak Syrah Tanner Vineyard 85 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Dark garnet in the glass, this wine has a nose of smoked ham with a little black pepper. Great flavor concentration in the mouth, med acid, low+ tannin. Nice and bright. $32. No geek sheet.

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  • 2005 Twisted Oak Petite Sirah Calaveras County

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Like the Torcido, this wine appeared oxidized both at the winery and at the Murphys tasting room. Again, both pourers said the wine tasted as it always does, leading me to believe the whole lot was oxidized. Puzzling. Maybe both were oxidized bottles, and the pourers just had high thresholds?

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Flight 2 - Hatcher (7 Notes)

Underground. A beautiful, cool tasting room. Lighting a little dim for proper tasting, but a very nice tasting bar nonetheless.

  • 2007 Hatcher Winery Sauvignon Blanc 79 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Fruity nose of pineapple and papaya, a little rice. Sweeet. Med acid, light acid on finish. 14.2% alcohol. Ok as a wine, too sweet for me.$16

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  • 2007 Hatcher Winery Cinsault Rosé 78 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Nice candied strawberries on the nose, maybe strawberry soda. Strong frizzante really lifts the palate. Unfortunately there is surprisingly strong bitterness on the midpalate. Quite dry, good finish. It would be refreshing if not for the bitterness. $16

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  • 2006 Hatcher Winery Zinfandel 78 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Med garnet in the glass, this wine had no clear aromas I could detect. In the mouth it was hot and sweet, with strawberry hints and a little pepper. No tannins and poor flavor concentration. 13.5% alcohol. $24.

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  • 2006 Hatcher Winery Barbera 79 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

    Dim nose with some fruit and some earth. Sweeet on the palate with no tannins. Med+ acid. A little sugar on the nose. Poor flavor concentration. 14.8% $24

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  • 2006 Hatcher Winery Mourvèdre 78 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    A little burnt rubber on the nose - the pourer tasted the wine and then remarked that I was right - she'd never noticed it before! Sweet in the mouth with med+ acid and no tannins. Alcoholic. 14.1%. $24

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  • 2005 Hatcher Winery Cabernet Franc Flawed

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Dark garnet in the glass.
    Nose of light bell peppers. A little oxidized.
    Palate: very nice, concentrated, a little on the sweet side, though. Good acidity, med- tannins. Too sweet on the finish (alcohol?)
    14.5% I'd go 82-3 pts.

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  • 2005 Hatcher Winery Sewell 84 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Very dark, like the cab franc.
    Faint brett on the nose. Black pepper, a little plum - not that clear or delicious of a nose. Great viscosity - meaty in the mouth. Good extraction and midpalate flavors. med- tannins. 15% alcohol and holds it well. This black pepper and plum Rhone profile is not one of my favorite, but I think this is a pretty good effort in that style. Best of the Hatcher wines. Probably 87-89 if you like Rhone peppers and plum. $23

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Flight 3 - Newsome Harlow (6 Notes)

The same winemaker as Twisted Oak, but smaller production. Very friendly pourer and a beautiful, well-lit tasting room. The easiest tasting room to concentrate in by far. Had chocolate instead of crackers, which I thought was a weird move.

  • 2007 Newsome-Harlow Sauvignon Blanc 90 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Very light straw in the glass, this wine has a beautiful single tone of a fruit resembling lime, lemon, grapefruit, melon... not sure what it is, but it is beautiful. I still remember how much the room seemed to get cooler, brighter, and friendlier when I smelled this wine. Most memorable of the trip. Light and easy in the mouth. Crisp acidity, dry, and a long finish - with fruit, not just acid. Very refreshing, simple, and clean. Extraordinary. $16

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  • 2006 Newsome-Harlow Zinfandel Big John's Vineyard 70 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    A little meat on the nose, alcohol unfortunately shows through. No tannins, med- body, sweet. $24

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  • 2005 Newsome-Harlow Train Wreck 80 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    NOSE: Light pyrazines, some plum (hint of pepper?).
    PALATE: faint candied jalapenos, some plum and pepper. Interesting blend of cab and syrah. $19

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  • 2004 Newsome-Harlow Meritage 81 Points

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Med garnet in the glass.
    Faint pyrazine, faint barnyard on the nose. -Bdx-like, but not great fruit. Faint brett.
    Excessive bitterness on the palate, low-med tannins. Overall, some nice earthy flavors, balanced, though a bit sweet/jammy. $30

    65:25:10 Cab/Merlot/Petite Verdot.

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  • 2005 Newsome-Harlow Meritage

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Upon smelling this wine I detected a faint bit of oxidation. When I pointed it out to the pourer, she agreed and opened a new bottle - or rather, uncorked an opened bottle with higher fill. To me this one also tasted and smelled oxidized, but I didn't press the issue. Puzzling though, since she agreed with the first bottle but not the second, and I thought the second was more clearly oxidized.

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  • 2006 Newsome-Harlow Meritage El Portal Flawed

    USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County

    Oxidized. Didn't get to taste another bottle, the pourer didn't think anything was wrong. Could be the wine. Other than being oxidized, seems fruity. Good acid, low+ tannins.

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Closing

I had a lot of problems with oxidation. I have yet to figure our whether oxidized wine sticks in my palate, causing false impressions in later wines, or if I just have a very low threshold for oxidization. The one wine that stands out in my memory is the extraordinarily simple, clean, and refreshing '07 Newsome Harlow sauv blanc. It really brightened my mood, and alone of all the wines, I had a hard time spitting it. In the "very good, and interesting" category are:

Twisted '06 Viognier
Twisted '05 Fuck
Twisted '05 Syrah
Newsome Harlow '05 Train Wreck (both cab and syrah show)

In the "nice, but lacking thunder" are:

Twisted '06 Verdelho (too light)
Twisted '04 Syrah (no nose)
Hatcher '05 Cab Franc (slightly oxidized nose)
'05 Sewell (nose)

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