Lorne Rangers 2024 - Rioja

Second Lorne Rangers January get together, the cooking really is very good indeed and I love the vibe. Gutted a trespasser on the tracks prevent Charlie from attending.

• 2006 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Belle Epoque 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  Smoky pear note on pouring, some bitter almonds too. Palate is old school but cracking. A little biscuitiness that with air become more brown bread like. There are hints of grapefruit segment on the palate with a lovely line or acidity. Very more-ish.

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• 1992 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia 93 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  A fabulous pair of Tondo Blanco Reservas (served with the 2001) this is as fresh as a daisy. Caramelised banana and Seville orange skins on pouring. This has lovely tension but is calmer somehow than the 2001. Crisp, refreshing palate with a real tartness to it with a lime cordial character with air. With time in the glass there is a Grape Nut, malty cereal character on the nose and some hints of Bakewell sweetness. A joy.

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• 2001 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia 92 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Tangerine and ginger nose with some flecks of spearmint. With air some subtle smokiness too. Palate really in a good place with an acid core and savoury structure around it. With an hour in the glass there are all sorts of other aromas spotted around the table; some dill a little Lapsang Souchong, hints of marzipan and pine resin. Very hard to separate from the '92 it is served with; by the finest of margins I prefer that.

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• 1995 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia 93 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Bell pepper, bridle and cepe stock on pouring. Something gamey too. Palate has a hint of caper, is beautifully savoury and has flawless balancing acidity. Love the way each time you go back to this there are subtle changes around the edges, a hint of Worcester Sauce umami, a little sweet chestnut, a touch of clove and that hint of high class leather. Lovely mature GR Rioja in a great place.

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• 2001 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 94 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Double decanted before being transported to the restaurant and then decanted on arrival. I guess we started sipping 3 hours after the cork first pulled. Beguiling nose here with dark fruits complemented by some 90% cocoa dark chocolate bitterness, some sour cherries, blood orange and a couple of ppm of peppermint. With time in the glass we could almost be in Bordeaux with some cedar and tobacco emerging. The final glass shows hints of gingerbread and a couple of ppm of strawberry sorbet. Fabulous.

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• 2009 Château Rieussec 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Really rich, and seductive wine here. Some Jasmine, tangerine and some beautiful florals on the nose. Palate is delightfully balanced with acidity, fruit and mouthcoating texture really à point. With air a mango and lime zest depth appears on the palate. Slatey minerality too. A treat.

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What a pleasure to try these wines in a format where pours can be more generous and wines can be revisited at the end of the evening to see how they have evolved. Also spoilt by journey from restaurant to front door (in Zone 5) taking 25 minutes.