New Jersey, USA
Tasted Friday, February 9, 2024 by oldwines with 82 views
Shane and I wanted to do another epic wine dinner. Shane designed the menu around three wine themes.... 2014 Chablis, 1983 Bordeaux, and Old Barolo. All of the wines came from my cellar. We added some introductory wines shared by different fractions of the group, depending on arrival time and had to finish with a winter-oriented wine, I chose 1977 Taylor's Port. With only 8 seats around the table, this is a cherished event for all of us who can make it with a great group of friends.
Glenn arrived early with some oysters which we had with Muscadet. The first bottle I pulled, the Fromenteaux, was oxidized and had to be tossed. The second was fresh and went great with the oysters on the half-shell while we were finishing up the meal prep in the afternoon.
As everyone else arrived we had the Champagne, which was just delicious.
Truffle butter infused Hamachi Sashimi on crispy fried artichoke risotto cake, with fennel, lemon and artichoke cream, garnished with fennel fronds, micro arugula and truffled caviar.
This very unique dish was my favorite and I think the consensus favorite of the evening. All three wines went well, but the Fourchaume was just superb with it. The lesser oak treatment here and the purity of fruit just popped with the dish.
Pan-roasted duck breast purée of roasted mushrooms and turnip, accompanied with crispy barley, braised onion and cherry-fig gastrique.
All of the 1983 Bordeaux went great with this dish. I deliberately chose three different appellations, St. Estelle, Pauillac, and St. Emilion. The St. Emilion is of course much higher Merlot in the blend. All three were notably fresh and youthful and quite similar at first, with more nuances emerging with time in the glass. I "milked" all three for as long as possible. I thought the Pichon Lalande was the best of the flight.
The Pork cheeks were sous vide for 4+ hours, then grilled over high heat, sliced thin, and served over truffle and garlic-infused mashed cauliflower. It was garnished with "confit" onion, pork rind dusted potato chips, balsamic roasted brussels sprouts, roasted red and golden beet purée and pickled radish.
This very complex dish was a beautiful complement to the Baroli. As anticipated the 1967 Guiseppe Mascarello was the star of the flight.
Lusciously rich and lightly sweet bread pudding made with chocolate "croissants" and dried cranberries, served with a cherry sauce and hazelnut whipped cream.
This was just an utterly delicious end to the evening that was perfect with the 1977 Taylor's.
Thanks to everyone who helped out, especially with the clean-up at the end of an epic evening! The food and wines were superb! I think the consensus was that the best pairing was the Hamachi and the Bessin Fourchaume with the Duck and "83 Pichon Lalande coming in second. The WOTN was not unanimous but I think the '67 G. Mascarello Barolo edged out the Fourchume for most people. For me there were a few wines in the top-tier this evening and a couple just a step behind. The '67 Mascarello, '83 Pichon Lalande and '77 Taylor's were just a slight bit better than the '08 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses and '14 Bessin Fourchaume. But these are slight nuances in my preference.
2014 Château Les Fromenteaux Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Vieilles Vignes Flawed
France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
Badly oxidized.
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2015 La Tour Gallus Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Gorges 91 Points
France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
Light lemon yellow color. Slow to open up on the nose but after 20 minutes or so it gets floral with white flowers and chamomile together with dense stony minerals. The texture is thin, light bodied but full flavored. Wet stones dominate the attack but also with layers of lemon, tangerine and very saline finish that last 20-25 seconds. Lovely with raw oysters!
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2008 Philipponnat Champagne Extra Brut Clos des Goisses 95 Points
France, Champagne
Decanted for 30 minutes and kept at cellar temperature. This definitely made a difference. Gorgeous bottle of Champagne! Yeasty, bright with varied white and yellow fruit and citrus. Great mouthfeel and mousse. Long finish. Crisp and energetic. Better with the aeration. Love it!
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