Jesús Barquín brings Equipo Navazos to Queens

Fernando's House
Tasted Sunday, November 9, 2008 by dougsmith with 547 views

Introduction

Thanks go to Fernando for organizing a fine welcome for Jesús Barquín in New York. My wife and I spent Sunday afternoon along with Mikhail, José, Pey-Wen, Walt and his wife, and the welcome addition of Justin Berlin from PJ Wine. Fernando showed off his well-honed grilling skills.

I did not get to try nearly all the available wines, however many of the most outstanding examples were from Jesús's and Eduardo Ojeda's ever-more-famous Equipo Navazos. They hand select the best butts of Sherry from local bodegas and bottle them in small quantities. The results are truly stunning.

Flight 1 (10 Notes)

  • 1999 Yann Alexandre Champagne 'Louis Marie' Courmas Brut 91 Points

    France, Champagne

    Light lemon color. Biscuits, yeast and lemon zest on the nose, with a touch of fresh mushroom on the end. Good acidity on the palate with a spicy presence. Still quite a youthful Champagne.

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Fino 7 "Macharnudo Alto" 94 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Light gold color. Nose of dry leaves and hay, chicken fat, sweet apple and some yeast. Full on the palate and silky, mineral notes, and an endless finish.

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  • NV Miguel Sánchez Ayala Jerez-Xérès-Sherry La Bota de Amontillado "Navazos" Nº 1 98 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Opened a day early. This continues to be one of the great Amontillado Sherries. Real finesse both on the nose and palate, but great structure, power and complexity as well. The scent fills the room with sweet aromas of roast nuts, toffee, burnt orange and spice. On the palate it is bone dry with racy acidity, but never overpowering. Exceptional wine.

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  • 1987 Spring Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Deep ruby color. Nose of sweet cassis, tobacco and savory spices with a touch of mint. Bright red and black cherries on the palate. Very pretty Cabernet, drinking well.

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  • 1988 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici 90 Points

    Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG

    Deep ruby color. Nose of spicebox, leather and tobacco with some red cherry notes. Anise on the palate. Pretty wine that is holding its own after twenty years.

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  • 1998 Sottimano Barbaresco Currá 91 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Deep ruby color. Nose of wild red berries, leather and spices. Medium bodied on the palate with good presence, drinking very well right now.

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  • 2001 Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 93 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    Deep ruby color. Interesting nose of cooked grain (bulgur wheat?), black fruit, complex sweet spices and a touch of prosciutto. Beautifully integrated on the palate. Still a youthful wine but delicious.

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  • 2005 Pax Syrah Cuvée Keltie 92 Points

    USA, California, North Coast

    Deep ruby color. Knockout, voluptuous nose of toast and tar with masses of sweet black and red fruits, black tea as well. Boysenberry essence on the palate with notes of sweet chocolate. This is an over-the-top wine, however the palate drops out into the finish. It may need time to come together, or may not be quite firing on all cylinders.

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  • NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Oloroso 14 "Bota NO" 97 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Deep gold color. Pungent, tangy nose of roast nuts, toffee and roast apricot. Dusty tannins on the palate, bone dry, with flavors of dates and coffee, full-bodied with intense acidity. This comes from a solera in the Valdespino Bodega, called "Vintage 1809". (Although none of the wine in it will be of that age). Extraordinary Oloroso.

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  • NV Valdespino Palomino Fino Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Amontillado Coliseo VORS 93 Points

    Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

    Not showing as well tonight as it has in the past, or perhaps it is up against some stiff competition? Deep brown color with a tinge of green at the rim. Oddly reticent nose of scorched caramel and green olive. On the palate it is bone dry and racy, but without the scorching acidity I can recall in past examples. Still, clearly an explosive wine on the palate. Perhaps if it were not up against the Oloroso #14 it would have come off better. This bottle had been opened a day in advance and re-corked by Jesús.

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Closing

There was also a very interesting old bottle of Valdespino Málaga wine, brought by Justin. There was no apparent indicator of age, however Jesús seemed to feel that the wine could be over fifty years old. It was in excellent condition, with flavors of tomato, fig and plum compote. It appeared to be a mix of red and white wines, and may have been intended as something akin to a Port.

Wine of the night, however, was the Amontillado Navazos, which remains one of my favorites.

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