F.X. Pichler Winery Visit (2004 Vintage)

FX Pichler Winery, Oberloiben, Wachau Valley, Austria
Tasted Thursday, August 18, 2005 by Vino Me with 876 views

Introduction

Last month my wife and I visited this winery in the Wachau Valley of Austria during a day trip for Vienna. It is an easy 1.25 hour drive. FX Pichler is probably the easiest winery to find in the valley. It is at the intersection of the only stoplight on the road that runs along the North side of the Danube river. They are located in the town of Oberloiben.

I considered this a must stop for any visit to the Wachau Valley. FX Pichler has the reputation as the best white winemaker in Austria. I tried to make an appointment for a tasting in advance but was told by the daughter, Elizabeth Pichler, that she would be on vacation. We stopped in anyway hoping someone would be available and the winemaker/Son of the owner, Lucas Pichler, and his dog Zoe came to the gate and invited us in. It turns out that Elizabeth got married the week before to the Son of the best red wine maker in Austria (Kunstler- the maker of Perwolff) and was on her honeymoon.

Lucas Pichler has been the winemaker since 1999 when his Father handed reigns over to him. His Father still handles the vineyard management. They own 13 hectares in the Wachau. The wines I tried were mostly from 2004 which was a very ripe vintage. Lucas thought highly of the vintage and stated that the best wines came form those who picked late. Unfortunately, at this time of year, his top wines from the Kellerberg vineyard and his "M" are sold out and not available for tasting.

The grapes for Pichlers dry white are picked in 3 passes. The grapes from the 1st pass go into their Federspiel wines. The grapes from the 2nd pass go into a Smaragd wine made from a blend of vineyard called Von Den Terrassen. The 3rd picking go into their single vineyard Smaragd wines.

Here are my notes on the wines we tried

Flight 1 (3 Notes)

Flight 2 (4 Notes)

  • 2004 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Oberhauser 89 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    This is a flat vineyard at the bottom of the hill the contains the Steinertal and Loibnerberg vineyards. It had a nice floral nose. Dry and clean with notes of fresh pear. Light bodied and a smooth finish. 89 points.

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  • 2004 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Von den Terrassen 90 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    This again is made from the 2nd picking of grapes from the terraced vineyards (Steinertal, Loibnerberg and Kellerberg). This had a very nice citrus aroma. Fruitier than the Oberhauser. It had just a hint of sweetness and a fresh finish. 90-91 points.

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  • 2004 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Ried Steinertal 91 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Single terraced vineyard with a Southeast exposure. This is really just a subsection of the larger loibnerberg vineyard. There is a lot of slate in this vineyard and it comes thorugh in the wine. Very clear pale color. The most minerally of the wines I tried. Surprisingly well balanced at this young age. Excellent. 91 points.

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  • 2004 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Berg 93 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    Considered by Lucas to be the second best of their vineyard after the Kellerberg. A greenish gold color. This had the most expressive nose of the wines I tried. Medium bodied and very minerally. It had a touch of sweetness with notes of apple, pear and some spice. 92-93 points.

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Closing

The prices were very good (about half what you would expect to pay in the US). We bought the 2004 Gruve Loibnerberg, 2004 Riesling Steinertal and 2004 Riesling Loibnerberg.

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