Three Format Winston Churchill 1988 Tasting (and others...)

Snows, London
Tasted Monday, December 12, 2005 by Russell Faulkner with 972 views

Introduction

Linden and Brian had the superbly ridiculous idea to try 1988 Pol Roger Cuvee Winston Churchill from three different formats, and between them had four bottles, two magnums and a Jéroboam (Double Magnum). Twelve bottles calls for twelve people :D so an offline was soon arranged!

Flight 1 - Winston Churchill 1988 (3 Notes)

There was some discussion of the cepage of this wine, and no real agreement other than at least 50% Pinot Noir! I think it is more like 70% Pinot or thereabouts... Other debate was whether the Jeroboam would have been 'transverged' into the large bottle from smaller formats or spent the time on it's lees in the big bottle. Again no consensus, but it would not have HAD to be aged in large bottle as the rules only changed more recently.

Anyway, the wines showed EXACTLY as you would expect, from the initial appearance, to the disappointing sulphur on the large bottle. Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill was new to me, and on this showing I can't wait to get some 1996!

  • 1988 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 94 Points

    France, Champagne

    From Bottle:
    Light mid-straw colour, moderate mousse. The nose showing some bright fresh citrus but also the hint of some toasty maturity on the edges. Very fresh on palate, full acidity ruling the attack, but a creamy mushroom on the midpalate, I have found this creamy mushroom note mainly on wines forced through malo, not sure if this is though. This was drinking very well on the night, just entering its drinking window, if I had a case I would be happy to open one or two at this stage. Still high acidity but muvh more approachable than Krug '88.

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  • 1988 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    From Magnum:
    Lighter colour, fresh ozone on nose that stayed with it in the glass. No signs of maturity on the nose, the creamy mushroom replaced by sour cherry and burnt lemon. Clearly the same wine but more tightly wound, a real quality on show though, exceptional balance.

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  • 1988 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill

    France, Champagne

    From Double Magnum, Disgorged Spring 1999, 1000 produced.
    Even lighter colour, clear sulphorous hint, reductive. Remains a little dirty on attack, but a crisp bright midpalate. The Mephitic nose ruined it for me though. I would be upset if I bought these. Not Rated.

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Flight 2 - Other Wines (10 Notes)

All served over dinner,

Closing

I have no details about a bottle of 22% ABV Austrian 'wine' that did the rounds, all I recall is that it is the single worst thing I have ever put in my mouth. My glass still stinks of the stuff now!

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