Imperial Treasure, Great World City
Tasted Friday, November 13, 2009 by Paul S with 754 views
The Vinum Le Conseillante dinner was booked out, so Hsien Min pulled together what was supposed to be a "simple" Friday dinner, so I brought a simple wine. I think I've learned not to trust Hsien Min if he says "simple" in future - the 6 of us (with Peter, Gary, Clement and Joyce) had an embarrassment of riches, with some absolutely superb wines. Thanks everyone for a great night!
Unfortunately, service was slow and patchy, with the staff somehow insisting on "unblinding" our wines even though we told them to serve blind. We ended up pouring the wines ourselves. No complains on the food, which was great as usual though. Wines were not served in flights apart from the 1994 Burgs, but I've organised them for easier viewing.
2002 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
A first rate white Burg. This could not be anything except a Grand Cru from the Monty family. Golden yellow in colour, absolutely typical nose of mushrooms in cream, hints of chalk, earth, lots of figs and aged white fruit and, with time and air, just layers and layers of honey, nectar and sprinkles of almond nuttiness. Not the most lacy or fine of palates, but the wine had astounding depth and breadth, with a rich, creamy, almost viscous weight just gliding slowly through the mouth. Still young, still primary, but even now there is an inexorable rush of mouth coating flavours - ripe lemons, rich white and yellow fruit, mushroom - all perfectly balanced though, with lovely integrated acidity holding up the wine, but never quite making itself obvious. Powerful finish rounded it off, with long, clingy notes of spice and mineral. Absolutely outstanding. Drinking very well now, but this would really benefit from a good 6-7 years in the cellar. A great effort from Fontaine-Gagnard, in what really must be seen as their niche vineyard.
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