Introduction
Jacky Truchot is very traditional small Burgundian producer who recently retired. His wines are deeply loved by a small, but passionate group of Burgundy fans who persist in the face of distributor and critical complaints. Several of us gathered in Washington DC for a weekend of tasting through multiple vintages of two of his 1er and his two Grand Crus.
All wines were delivered from the participants to the tasting venues a couple weeks before the event. They were double-decanted slightly before each flight.
Flight 1 - Morey St. Denis Part I : "Clos Sorbés" Premier Cru (9 notes)
The first night, admirably hosted by part of the DC contigent, focused on Morey St. Denis. We started with "Clos Sorbés" which is located in the heart of Morey St. Denis, near the village proper. This tasting revealed a very classic MSD profile, albeit of the quality befitting the siting of this parcel. Most fascinating was the continuity of these wines. There was an obvious linear connnection between all these wines where each wine slowly unfolded characteristics that would be fully formed with age. Most fascinating was the unravelling from meat and blood to more pure iron mineral as we chained back 01-98-96-93. Likewise, 02, 99, 90 showed the body and power of those fruit-driven vintages. Of note - most of these wines were the "Vielles Vignes" cuvée imported to the US by Peter Weygandt. The only exception was the 2001, as marked in the tasting note, which was purchased directly at the Domaine.
These wines were all drank in groups of three, descending in vintage.
Red
2001 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbes Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
(NB - This not the US-released V.V. wines, but a young vine cuvée from the Domaine.) Smaller nose, minty and tarragon. Fruit at a very nice and pretty place, suspended between pure primary and development. Good meaty notes/nam pla (umami) elements. Anise picks up on the finish with some Szechuan pepper.
Red
1990 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Really thick body, candied orange peel elements on the nose and palate. A bit of nice earthy funk. Mid palate reveals lacquer, smoke, blood sausage. Very rich on the finish. Rather quickly fell apart w/ the orange peel notes becoming like Lemon Pledge.
Flight 2 - Intermezzo (1 note)
A little palate-refreshing break before moving on to the Grand Cru.
Flight 3 - Morey St. Denis Part II : Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (13 notes)
Jackky Truchot has two parcels in Clos de la Roche, one in the Clos de la Roche proper and another in the "Fremiers" climat. Both parcels have wines of significant age, though again only the US-imported cuvée from Peter Weygandt is marked "Vielles Vignes." In this case, the 2000 was the exception, purchased at the Domaine. The power and Grand Cru class was clearly on display here, often pushing out of the expected vintage bounds. Clos de la Roche is probably one of the best display of Jacky's uniqueness as his light hand clearly demonstrates the native power of this cru. The trifecta of 91, 89, 88 were sheer bliss.
These wines were all drank in groups of three, descending in vintage, except for the last four which were done in pairs.
Red
2002 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Spicy, rich, even coffee nose. A little hint of alcohol. Picks up some rose-y elements with time. Rich cherry essence, stoney notes. A very primary wine, but absolute lip-smacking juiciness. Definite Roche characteristics riding on the fruit.
Red
2001 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Floral nose, not unlike the Diptypque "tubereuse." A bit of bread, lots of fruit, pretty acids on the top. A bit of meat. Cinnamon elements on the back palate and nose. Pretty acids blooming on the finish, some rocks. Intricate and lacey structure holds this all together. Really pure.
Red
2000 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
(This wine was not the US V.V. cuvée, but direct from the domaine.) Mossy and lanolin nose. Light, some mineral, a bit of wool. Light in body, airy structure with a very good balance. Picked up some weight and a bit of milkiness. Quite accessible and good.
Red
1999 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Closed nose, can't read much from it. Very well-knit and structured. Hard to judge with closed flavors. Some time delivers some real power (at least for a Truchot wine) and density. Very appealling Peychaud bitters and mineral elements. Quiet fruit lurking beneath. All the pieces in place.
Red
1998 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Darker nose, dark violets. Dark fruits, toffee, dirt and hummus. A bit of apple and date notes on the middle. Good finish with a long linger. A remarkably accessible '98, very precise and crisp.
Red
1995 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Slight compost/leafy nose, a bit of vanilla. Very nice balanced fruit. Full of life and zest with a good deal of complexity. Mineral components on the finish. Very precise, but giving and quite delicious.
Red
1993 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Light nose, spiciness. A bit closed on the palate. Adroit balancing between tartness and a slight sweetness. Lurking mineral core. Very good finish and quite harmonious, though not giving a lot. Great potential.
Red
1991 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Really rustic nose, mossy too. Rocks and old velvet. Fruit core at a delightful shadow state. Words fail here - just fantastic, really running on all cylinders and a divine ethereal finish. Pure Roche quality with an amazing lightness. Tied for #1.
Red
1990 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Lemon pomander on the nose. Rich and powerful fruit still pushing out. Sweetness, backed with power. Very rich and silky - certainly not typique of Truchot - long finish. Definite quality and lush enjoyment.
Red
1989 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Exotic nose. Very earthy, plump, Szechuan pepper and clove-y notes. Fat fruit still left. Suede and meaty texture and finish. Very sophisticated wine. Very close, but not quite to the level of 91 and 88.
Red
1988 Domaine Truchot-Martin Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Softer nose, very fresh. Dried fruit, clove, pure and crystalline with delightful acids. Incredibly delicate structure and impossibly long finish with mineral, spice, mossiness. Outstandingly integrated and gorgeous. Tied for #1.
Flight 4 - Après tasting (2 notes)
A little dessert wine and then back to the hotel. Needed a little snack and a bottle of Pepe attracted some interest to us from the other bar denizens.
White
1995 Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
Explosive nose with olives, clove, orange peel, herbal tea. Definite spritz and alive body. Moderate acids, gelatin, spice and lime rickey elements. Good finish with solid body. Idiosyncratic and full of character. Greatly enjoyable and delicious with a snack of tuna tataki.
Flight 5 - Aperitif (1 note)
Our second day was held at the Tabard Inn in downtown DC. A little opener while waiting for our dining room
Flight 6 - Gevrey-Chambertin Part I "Aux Combottes" Premier Cru (8 notes)
This day was to be devoted to Gevrey-Chambertin. Jacky considers "Aux Combottes" to be of Grand Cru quality and makes only one barrel. "Aux Combottes" is located at the very edge of Gevrey-Chambertin and abuts Clos de la Roche. There are clear similarities, but the delineation between the two is readily appararent. Again, the relationship between 01, 96, 93, 88 was obvious.
The 03 and 02 were sampled together and the remainder were tasted in groups of three, in descending vintage order.
Red
1993 Domaine Truchot-Martin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Sulfurous and organic nose, but not on the palate. A bit closed and not precise. Good earth and dried black fruit, a bit of blood as well. Way young and very hard. Unable to judge this wine. Over time, it did bloom with some exotic flower elements. Several hours later, the sulfurous elments dominated in a strong egg flavor and was very unpleasant.
Red
1988 Domaine Truchot-Martin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Slight sulfurous nose - very slight. Grew some and stays on the finish (a bit like quail eggs.) Slight licorice/anise notes. Very young and fresh, but edges off. Nice fruit still strong, a bit rough. Lightens up over time, edges smoothed and nice currants and tobacco elements. Very svelte and polished in the end. Another over-achiever.
Flight 7 - Intermezzo (1 note)
A little palate cleanser.
Flight 8 - Grevey-Chambertin Part II Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (11 notes)
Charmes-Chambertin is the Grand Cru of Gevrey closest to MSD and is often considered to be of less than Grand Cru status. It is divided into two section, Mazoyères and Charmes. According to those of us who have visisted the estate, Jacky's plot is in Charmes proper, but according to Kramer's "Making Sense of Burgundy," it is in Mayozères. I have to say that the volatility of Charmes Grand Cru-ness was apparent here. The step-up from the 1er was not always obvious and while the wines were nearly uniformly fantastic, only a couple really showed the Grand Cru exceptionality. Also Jacky began a new oak regime on the Charmes in 1996 and this was very evident in the wines. Dinner courses were also inserted here.
These wines were drank in groups of three, in descending vintage order, with the 90 and 88 making a final pair. Follow-up notes were made on a few wines somewhat later as John and I were relaxing.
Red
2003 Domaine Truchot-Martin Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
A little prickle on the nose. Fruit, some oak. A bit flat on the palate. Restrained and more class than expected from an 03, but missing the earthy middle. Softly, but there is some VA. An odd structure as well. Far more positives than most 03s, but still of the vintage.
Red
2001 Domaine Truchot-Martin Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
A bit of alcohol on the nose. Nice earthy and loam. Good body, very much clay earth and a slight spice. Opens and fills out with a very nice structure holding up very pure Gevrey and fragile Charmes earth. Classy and classic. Really gorgeous beautiful. Good expression of Grand Cru quality.
Red
1999 Domaine Truchot-Martin Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Dense and rich - great nose of earth and moist hummus, cheese rind. Great finish, long full with young fruit and brambles. Lots of lurking, brooding power here and serious, but correct elements. Waiting in the wings is true Grand Cru quality.
Red
1996 Domaine Truchot-Martin Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Sweet meat nose, very cheerful and light. Orange - fresh and sweet notes. Less earth than expected - acid elements too much in play. Really good finish and great structure. Pretty, classy - but closed.
Red
1990 Domaine Truchot-Martin Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Interesting bricking colour. Softer nose, very orchid and feminine earth. Suprisingly soft and supple. Serious complexity with cthonic, sexy earth and a Goth-y structure. Very evolved and sophisticated. Beautiful. I feel a strong kinship here to the 2002 G-C Combottes, but fear the new oak regime has obscured this in the 2002 Charmes.
Red
1988 Domaine Truchot-Martin Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Fruity-coffee nose - really deep. Caramel notes, great body with earthiness and complexity. Suprisingly big and deep colour. Good finish, more mineral than earth though.Very giving and enjoyable, but also shows the failings of Charmes.
Flight 9 - Après tasting (2 notes)
Dessert and relaxing with a taste of a new project of Didier Dagueneau. Chateauneuf was sampled for fun while relaxing after the tasting.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2004 Didier Dagueneau Les Jardins de Babylone Moelleux
France, Southwest France, Jurançon
Thick and liqueur like. Orange peels and honey suckle on the nose, pineapple and tropical juice. Flavor of tangerine and Gran Marnier, but fresh. Good strong sweetness and a solid streak of acidity. Spice and nuts on the finish. Really delicious, distinctly Jurançon, but tariff out of proportion.
Red
2001 Château Gigognan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos du Roi
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Yeasty/cookie dough nose. Some dark fruit and Grenache-y kick. Solid body, not big or alcoholic. Good streak of acid on the finish which leads it to be a good food wine. Muted fruit and persistent sesame bread notes begin to detract though and definite oxidative qualities. The element are not harmonious and the overall effect is not good.
Day 2 - Clearly smells of Madeira. Nice with food, but not by itself.
Closing
This was an amazing tasting. Nearly all the wines of at least great quality and some were transcendent. Seldom have I tasted so much from a single producer where the quality level was so consistently excellent. This was also profoundly educational as Jacky's wines express their terroir in a deep and pure fashion. The vintage character is also expressed and the thread tying together 01-98-96-93-88 was eerie as was the consistent sweetness on the nose and palate of the 1996 wines. I really felt I was communing with the soul of Burgundy here.
The standout wines were the troika of 91, 89, 88 Clos de la Roche. The 88 and 90 Charmes were also profound. In the premier crus, the 96 "Clos Sorbés" had a nose which literally caused a jolt in my spine. The 02 "Aux Combottes" was one of the cthonic and eldritch wines I have ever experienced. The 90 Charmes also reflected, in a more sophisticated and elegant way, the same deep connection with the primeval.
A couple of the wines have had a bit of controversy. In 1993, the importer Peter Weygandt felt the "Aux Combottes" was beset with sulfur/mercaptans and refused to import it. This caused some friction with Jacky who felt that the wine was fine. Intially the wine had a hint on the nose, but not on the palate and felt very young and tight with no flaws. When John and I revisted it later, there was clearly a scent and taste of over-cooked hard-boiled eggs in the middle of the wine. More recently Burghound, who usually praises Truchot, panned the 2003 Grand Cru wines. The general consensus was that he was well off-base on the Charmes, though I felt a little prickle like VA in my nose (and was pretty alone in that.) The quality was readily evident as was the oddity of 2003.
I, a little sprout in the Burg world, was extraordinarily blessed to participate in this event. Many of the others have visited Jacky Truchot, some many times a year and have had long relationships with these wines. Their knowledge and passion was incredible. The company made this special event even more so. We made plans to re-visit these wines in five and ten years. John Gilman deserves a big shout out for his work in preparing this and for painstaking double-decanting each wine. Finally, mega-thanks for Maureen for organizing this and for inviting me.