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Frederick Wildman Burgundy Portfolio Tasting

Hotel Monaco, San Francisco

Tasted February 13, 2012 by drwine2001 with 967 views

Introduction

All of the 2010s except for the Christian Moreau Chablis were barrel samples, so take all of the notes on this vintage as very tentative, preliminary impressions.

Flight 1 - Chateau de Fuisse (2 notes)

White
2009 Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Château de Fuissé Tête de Cru France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé
Nice, round wine. Touch of oak. Good balance. Not too heavy for an '09.
White
2010 Jean-Jacques Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé Les Brûles Château de Fuissé France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé
Sulfury. Light, lean, simple fruit, high acid, not great feel.

Flight 2 - Domaine Christian Moreau (3 notes)

White
2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light color and weight. Typical oyster shell aromatics. Lovely.
White
2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
A bit of sulfur. Light weight (in fact, virtually the same as the Vaillons). Delicate in the mouth with florality, bright acidity and some wood toast at the end. Pretty but it lacks some intensity for a Grand Cru.
White
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Big, rich and lower pitched, like a Cote de Beaune rather than Chablis. Less distinctive Chablis characteristics and some noticeable wood but very powerful on the finish. Good in a powerful mold.

Flight 3 - Olivier Leflaive (8 notes)

White
2008 Olivier Leflaive Chablis Les Deux Rives France, Burgundy, Chablis
Woody base. Simple citrus fruit, medium weight. Pretty generic and uninspiring.
White
2009 Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Very good Bourgogne-excellent amplitude and depth, good mouth coverage, mix of lively citrus and earthy finish.
White
2007 Olivier Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Textbook Meursault. Hazelnut scents, medium weight, great acidity. Fine and elegant.
White
2010 Olivier Leflaive Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully 1er Cru
Bland and simple. Pass.
White
2010 Olivier Leflaive Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Sulfur on the nose. Light and bright but little Meursault character. Too much toasty oak on finish for its amount of concentration.
White
2010 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
Leesy and floral. Harmonious feel with lighter body. Gentle, earthy finish. Excellent village wine.
White
2010 Olivier Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Marc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
More citric with more convincing acidity and greater volume than the village Chassagne. A beauty.
White
2010 Olivier Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Leesy and lower pitched than the prior wine. Medium weight, muted palate. This was the most difficult barrel sample to assess, but tonight it did not distinguish itself as Grand Cru.

Flight 4 - Potel-Aviron (3 notes)

Red
2009 Stephane Aviron Fleurie Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Light tart cherry with good bite. Nothing too ripe about this one.
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Red
2010 Stephane Aviron Chénas France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Chénas
Bigger, blacker fruit, more structured than the Fleurie. Very good.
Red
2010 Stephane Aviron Juliénas Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Juliénas
Typical Gamay light weight. Lively with herbs and pepper outpacing the fruit at this point as is also the case with other 2010 Beaujolais I've tried.

Flight 5 - Jacques Prieur (2 notes)

White
2008 Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault Clos de Mazeray France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Rich with toasty oak and overtly tropical fruit. Surprisingly blowsy for an '08.
Red
2008 Domaine Jacques Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Santenots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Very pale, almost rose. Tart, little fruit and an abundance of wood. Poor.

Flight 6 - Faiveley (8 notes)

White
2010 Faiveley Mercurey Clos Rochette Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey
Simple, ripe, pleasant and easy to drink even now.
White
2010 Faiveley Meursault 1er Cru Blagny France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Cloudy. Medium weight. Very solid Meursault with some spiciness.
White
2010 Faiveley Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Lactic, lemony, brisk acidity, medium weight. Promises to be refined and complex.
Red
2008 Faiveley Pinot Noir Bourgogne France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Thin and dominated by wood. Nothing more to say.
Red
2009 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Round, good volume. Red fruit and earth. Lots to it for a village wine, but as with all of the reds from this producer tonight, you have to be able to tolerate a prominent oaky underpinning.
Red
2006 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Light color. Funky, earthy aromatics. Light bodied, tart to the point of austerity, lots of wood sticking out. This seemed over the hill and out of balance.
Red
2010 Faiveley Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Pretty irresistible wood assault again, but nice black/red fruit mix and a Pommard-like tang.
Red
2010 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Porêts Saint-Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Complex gamy and anise aromas. Medium weight. Subtle blend of fruit and earth. Great acidity. Wonderful balance here that suggests both early accessibility and intermediate aging potential. Unlike the others tasted, the wood is invisible. My favorite red wine of the night.

Closing

Realizing that this was a woefully incomplete sampling, I walked away with the following conclusions:

Prieur-Only 2 wines, but both grossly disappointing
Olivier Leflaive-Probably the best and most consistent range of wines; exciting potential in an understated, elegant style
Faiveley-While their vinification may have changed to allow softer wines, I really don't like the amount of wood in them.

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