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Bernard Burtschy dinner at Taberna del Alabardero
Taberna del Alabardero, Washington D.C.
Tasted May 3, 2012 by dcwino with 1,002 views
Introduction
Mr. Bernard Burtschy, the wine writer for Le Figaro and a fellow Grand Jury Europeen member, was in town to conduct the heart's delight grand tasting this Saturday. Bijan organized the dinner to honor Bernard. Thirteen of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero and drank some nice Bordeauxs.
I was under the weather and my nose was only operating at 50%, except a few moments where my nose got cleared for a few seconds. It has happened to me once before and it is no fun. It was interesting that I was still able to get TCA, VA and brett although I couldn’t detect much fruits and other flavors. Most my notes are based on palate impression where I was able to smell a bit better than through my nose.
Bernard has vast knowledge of wine. He gave the background and impression of the wines which was very informative. It is interesting that his assessment of the Bordeauxs are not far from that of Bob’s, ie concentration and ripeness are good things.
Flight 1 - Champange and whites (3 notes)
White - Sparkling
1995 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
93 points
Restraint impression, perhaps due to the copious amount of wet stone and very dry finish. Both primary BdB, wet stone, slightly unripe granny smith and citrus and a hint of the aged champagne characters, brioche and honey coexist. Very youthful, precise and nicely delineated. Perhaps one may want a bit more richness in the palate.
White
2004 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux
88 points
Perhaps it has shut down a bit but I am not impressed at all. There is typical rich/oaky characters that is typical to youthful Pavillon Blanc but not much fruit. Wax, vanilla and set sox driven nose. For me, it is clearly too hot and disjointed at the moment as there is no fruits to layer the alcohol. For me, Pavillon Blanc is closer to the semi dry white wines of Sauternes then Grave blanc.
White
1997 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune
94 points
Despite my nose at 50%, incredibly complex nose. Initially sweet and floral, also a hint of petrol, crème brulee, yellow fruits, lightly caramelized apple and peach. It is beguiling as the nose impression is so rich and complex yet the palate is airy and bone dry. Although very dry there is very little mineral expression which makes this wine a bit flat at the end. Nevertheless a beautiful expression of Riesling. Lovely.
Flight 2 - 67 VCC (1 note)
Red
1967 Vieux Château Certan
85 points
One of the rare 67s, my birth year wine, that is still drinking well. This particular bottle wasn’t showing too well. Ash, earth and a bit pruny. Bernard Burtschy explained there was several different bottlings. I had a couple great examples in the past.
Flight 3 - Blind flight (2 notes)
Red
2006 Derenoncourt Cabernet Sauvignon
flawed
Served blind and unfortunately corked. The only reason why I am posting the nose is that despite being clearly corked, the expensive oak component was still noticeable.
Red
2006 Derenoncourt Cabernet Franc
80 points
Served blind, I am guessing a Zinfandel as there is abrupt bitter finish.
Flight 4 - 1978s (4 notes)
Red
1978 Château Trotanoy
93 points
This is fresher and cleaner compare to the bottle drank in late March but the overall impression is quite similar. More mint than eucalyptus, meat, chocolate, cherry and truffle. The palate is quite dense, energetic and silk and ends with noticeable tannins. There are a lot of musty/unclean Bordeauxs from the 60s and the 70s but this bottle is perfectly clean. Rather masculine and forceful expression. Impressive rather than lovely.
Red
1978 Château Margaux
89 points
The first wine under Mentzelopoulos regime. Perhaps due to my nose being at only 50%, seems flat and not expressive. Nice sweet palate impression and noticeable tannins but not much nose.
Red
1978 Château La Mission Haut-Brion
flawed
Another victim of TCA but only slightly. Rich, big, sweet and ripe. Need to seek a good bottle.
Red
1978 Château La Tour Haut-Brion
93 points
Black fruits, cedar and earth. This is a big scale rustic wine. Impressive concentration, silky, sweet fruits and long finish.
Flight 5 - 1990s (2 notes)
Red
1990 Château La Mission Haut-Brion
96 points
Beautiful sweet ripe red and black fruits, earth, mushroom and dark caramel. Palate is silky and sweet. Fully integrated tannins. Very ripe and sweet wine.
Red
1990 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron
97 points
This is a great example of the 90 Pauillac. Very ripe, dark fruit expression is not unlike the 90 Leoville Poyferre. Sweet spices, licorice, ink, caramel and cedar. Silky palate. I preferred the hedonistic aspect of this wine to the complex nose of the 90 La Mission.
Flight 6 - HB, Cos and Latour a Pomerol (3 notes)
Red
1986 Château Haut-Brion
95 points
Beautiful sweet caramel, licorice and lactic. This is nicely opened up and quite expressive. Medium concentration wine with bright acidity and silky palate. Lovely youthful example.
Red
1985 Château Cos d'Estournel
93 points
This is the first stage of maturity. Still showing fruits but becoming mostly secondary. For some this will be vague but this is simply perfectly drinking claret. Silky and delicious.
Red
1982 Château Latour à Pomerol
91 points
Very fresh example, seems a bit simpler than the others in the flight. Bright, fresh but soft, not terribly complex, relatively speaking.
Flight 7 - Oldies (4 notes)
Red
1959 Château Rauzan-Gassies
94 points
Another great showing. When I had the first bottle, I was very pleasantly surprised and pleased with my purchase from Christies. I had a number of the bottles and they were all great. Now I have the explanation from Bernard Burtschy, Mr. encyclopedia of Bordeaux. According to Bernard the 59 was the last great vintage of the property and the next great one is the 09, only fifty years later. Starting the 61 vintage, the yield was increase significantly resulting in less concentration wines. This once again is very fresh and sweet. Still noticeable tannins.
Red
1945 Château Saint-Pierre-Sevaistre
95 points
This is round, generous, opulent and sweet. As Bernard mentioned 1945 is a very special vintage as the yields was extremely low resulting in super concentrated sweet wines that still shows great deal of sweet jammy fruits.
Red
1949 Château Cantemerle
93 points
Cooler overall impression, compare to the 45 Saint Pierre. Red fruits, cedar, caramel, plum and blood. Medium concentration. As the wines get to 50+ years, VA tends to emerge. This is no exception but for me, it becomes a positive attribute, adding freshness and complexity.
Red
1919 Château d'Issan
93 points
As we all know, aging wine is a slow, gradual and gentle process of oxidation. The color tells me that the wine is madeirized, ie no red, dark and opaque. It must came from a very good cellar as the slow aging resulted in this still being enjoyable although all tertiary. Mint, eucalyptus, medicine, band-aid, chartreuses, cedar and three bark. Noticeable brett but it is not bothersome for me. YMMV. For those who love old wines, this may be a good one to try.
Flight 8 - Stickies (2 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1955 Château Climens
93 points
Toffee and dry apricot nose. Medium body and airy texture. I find, compare to D’Yquems, Climen tends to get drier with time except the 29 perhaps. This is a fully matured Climen that is drinking well. Medium body and not terribly complex but drinking wonderfully.
White - Off-dry
1993 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese
90 points
Apparently a recent release. Very pale color, fresh and precise. Pretty dry. Citrus and lime, bright acidity and minerality.
Closing
My sincere gratitude to Bijan for organizing the wonderful event and to Bernard for leading us. The restaurant provided the perfect wine services and the food was great once again!