Magnum. Creamy chardonnay with a floral quality. Just starting to show some creamy breadth to the focused, mineral line. Lovely. ****

Pale straw. Classic old world Sauvignon nose, mineral and detailed but restrained. Similar on palate, mineral and zesty with a strong line and good length. There's quite a lot here, and room for it to grow further. ****

Blind. Deep straw. A ripe, evolved nose with some custard apple vanilla spice. Pretty advanced. A ripe vintage in the Macon? Oh, no, that's a surprise, it's clumsy for Puligjny, but probably a combination of the vintage and verging on the edge of pox. **

Blind. Mellow, earthy, slightly meaty red fruit with sous bois and a touch of caramel. Complex and quite long. Very attractive. Could be Burg or maybe Oregon. Ah, apparently I've had another bottle from this case previously, but none the wiser. ****

Blind. Mid to full cherry red. Vibrant and bright nose of dark red fruit, white pepper and a top not of kirschy cherry. Smooth and silky attack, similar profile to the nose. Syrah? Gosh, that's a surprise. When revealed I can see the Italianate acidity but even with hindsight wouldn't pick it as such. Lovely wine, with lots there. ****

Blind. Bright, mid ruby, quite light. Lovely nose of strawberry. Palate suggests this is a light Pinot, which indeed it turns out to be. Fresh, joyous uncomplicated fun with a bit of depth to it. ***

Magnum. 2/3 double decanted approx five hours in advance. Nicely vibrant, briary plum and mulberry red fruit with a lick of spice. Full and plush and ripe and full, but holding it in ok without heat on the finish. Long and crying out for chargrilled bloody meat. Bare ****

Deep ruby. Slky texture. Good acidity and tightly wound fruit with fine tannins. All there, but it still needs a little time. Just starting to uncoil slowly. **(**)

Amber. A honeyed nose with a faint whiff of botrytis. Rich but actually not that sweet seeming on the palate. Quite intense, but more a cheese wine than a pudding one. After the initial fresh marmalade it maybe lacks some complexity and depth, but it's very drinkable and holds one's interest. ***1/2