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Iberian dinner

Milford, CT

Tasted October 3, 2015 by salil with 537 views

Flight 1 - Starting whites - with appetizers (chorizo and sardines) and bisque (3 notes)

White
2004 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Viña Gravonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
87 points
Liked but didn't love this. Comes across a touch smoky on the nose with candle wax and sulfury notes framing some fig and citrus fruits. Medium weight on the palate with good acidity keeping it nicely balanced, pleasant though not exciting.
White
2005 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Viña Gravonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
flawed
Something seems off here, there's a very strange dirty/funky note on the nose overwhelming the fruit, and the flavours seem rather muddled on the palate.
White
2005 Niepoort Projectos Riesling Portugal, Trás-os-Montes, Vinho Regional Trás-os-Montes
83 points
An interesting curio, but not particularly pleasurable. Some petrol and smoke on the nose, but the palate is a bit strange - a bit waxy and creamy, with faintly nutty notes accenting the ripe citrus fruit here, and low-ish acidity for a Riesling.

Flight 2 - Assorted Portuguese reds - with duck risotto (3 notes)

Red
1928 Antonio Bernardino Paulo da Silva Colares Collares Visconde de Salreu (V.S.) Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
This had a really small cork that came out far too easily - almost slipped out with very little pressure, and seems to have exposed the wine to more oxygen than was probably good for it. There's some bright dark fruit, earth, and bitter tree bark notes with some higher toned VA, but it seems rather tired and past it. It does freshen up with some air and time in the glass, but it's more interesting than really enjoyable.
Red
1980 Caves São João Dão Porta dos Cavaleiros Portugal, Beiras, Dão
flawed
Lightly corked.
Red
2000 Quinta do Monte d'Oiro Vinho Regional Lisboa Reserva Portugal, Lisboa, Vinho Regional Lisboa
89 points
Liked this a lot. Plenty of ripe red fruit here, and some meaty and leathery funk that makes it pretty recognizable as Syrah. Air brings out some more herbal and spicy elements, and there's bright acidity that gives the flavours plenty of lift.

Flight 3 - Rioja - with braised short ribs and polenta (4 notes)

Red
1998 La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Way too young. Way way way too young. Lots of oak here, and the fruit's still incredibly primary, with nothing else going on here. Hard to focus on this, with so many older, more resolved/developed wines at the table.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1982 Bodegas Alejandro Fernández Ribera del Duero Janus Gran Reserva Pesquera Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
93 points
Really loved this. Lots of fresh red and dark fruited flavours framed by tobacco, earth, and cedar, with a high toned spiciness on the nose. So easy to drink with a graceful, polished palate presence, a bit of grainy tannin on the back end but most of the structure here coming from the acidity, which keeps it so fresh and lively.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1964 Bodegas Bilbainas Tempranillo Rioja Viña Zaco Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
90 points
I remember the last bottle I had of this was amazing, but this didn't show the same level of depth or complexity. Plenty of bright red fruit framed by earthy and cedary accents, light on its feet with bright acids and resolved tannins, but it comes across a bit simple without the savoury depth of the Pesquera or the CVNE.
Red
1964 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Reserva Especial Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
95 points
Spectacular wine, easily my favorite of the non-fortifieds. This is a wow from the first sip, with an incredible aroma combining bright cherry and red berried fruit, apples, earth, old cedar wood and floral notes. The palate is remarkable - an array of fruit, savoury notes, and those sweeter mature wine flavours all coming together very seamlessly, with barely any sense of weight on the palate. Incredible length and intensity, yet so light on its feet. What an experience - thanks Brad.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 4 - Ports with bolo de mel (2 notes)

Red - Fortified
1964 Taylor (Fladgate) Very Old Single Harvest Port Limited Edition Portugal, Douro, Porto
88 points
Liked but didn't love this - lots of ripe red fruits, figs, raisins, and some caramel and clove notes, but also some sharp VA notes on the nose that I found offputting.
Red - Fortified
1880 Whitwham Porto Millennium Portugal, Douro, Porto
97 points
What a treat to have this again. Once again it's impossible to put this into words. The complexity is off the charts with an array of smoky, nutty, figgy, caramel, old wood, and other spicy flavours, tremendous intensity and sweetness matched by powerful acidity, and a finish that resonates for minutes after each sip. Spectacular.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 5 - Madeira with bolo de mel (3 notes)

White - Fortified
1969 D'Oliveiras Madeira Sercial Reserva Portugal, Madeira
91 points
Holy crap, the acidity on this one. A really high toned, piercing nose with cardamom, fennel seed, molasses, roasted nuts, and coffee notes, but it comes across almost dry on the palate with tart citrus and figgy fruit and nutty flavours lifted by powerful acidity. Really curious to see how this bottle develops with more time/air, but it's compelling stuff, though not as pleasurable as the Verdelho.
White - Fortified
1966 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho Portugal, Madeira
94 points
Comes across quite sweet after the Sercial, with rich honeyed, toffee, and molasses flavours framing an array of dried fruits, roasted nuts, and citrus peel. Full bodied on the palate with a very glossy, slightly oily texture, and plenty of sweetness that's very well balanced by the bright acidity here.
White - Fortified
1920 Blandy's Madeira Bual Portugal, Madeira
98 points
Hard to put this into words, beyond wow. This is a monument. So much going on here - the fragrance is a kaleidoscope of dates and other dried fruits, citrus peel, cloves, honey, molasses, and more savoury woody, spicy, and nutty notes. Could have kept smelling this for hours, except that it's just as impressive on the palate with amazing complexity, palate-staining intensity, and an incredibly polished, glossy mouthfeel. The length is ridiculous - each sip lingers for minutes. What an experience.
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