Brioche, grapefruit, flint and spice. Nice line, clean, and with great length and texture. Delicate but also with depth to the fruit, this was a touch behind a bottle tried on release, but still excellent.

Honey and sea spray, graphite, musk and lemon. Rich on the palate, the fruit is open and expressive, there is fullness and it all flows beautifully. Still primary and developing, will definitely continue to lift over the medium term.

Explosive nose with citrus, toast, ginger, spice, smoke and slate. The palate balance is spectacular, with both deep complexity and poise - the fullness of the fruit is played off against texture and structure. Super impressive.

Ginger, cloves and a vivid violet floral note emerges with time in the glass. The palate seems a little awkward at the moment, the alcohol and fruit aren't quite in sync for now. Would probably give this time to see if it gets itself together.

Mandarin, spearmint, lemon and honey. Good length, the intensity of the fruit is held back in comparison to the 2003 and 2004 and I like the acidity that lends brightness to the palate. The mint character divided the table a bit, but I enjoyed it, feeling that it gave the nose some extra interest.

Lemon, botrytis, apricot, cherry and a light oxidative note. The palate has spark and drive, with the same interesting characters asserting themselves. Good length.

Spice, floral, some tar and cranberry on a fairly clean and pure nose. The palate is similar in style, with fresh acidity and medium length.

Very meaty now, with smoke, tobacco, cherry and rhubarb. The palate exhibits lovely acidity that gives it verve and vitality. The fruit has the mix of sweet fruit and savoury spices that really draws me in. Not quite at its peak, but not all that far away overall.

Peppery spices, cherry and smoke. The palate shows off pure red fruits, that are restrained and really well balanced with the light tannic frame. Good length and drive, this is enjoyable early in its life.

Spice, rhubarb, cherry, graphite, musk and a barely apparent touch of undergrowth. The palate is dense, with the fruit full but retaining its purity. It really feels like it is on the cusp of bursting to show its true power, but I think realistically that moment will be quite some time off still.

Stalks, cherry, spice, truffly earth and meat. The palate is in a similar vein, with earthy notes and plenty of spice. Good structure and drive, while I don't think this will turn into a top vintage, it has promise to improve rapidly over the medium term.

Exotic and lifted aromatics of incense, cherry, five spice, floral notes and truffle. Spectacular on the palate, the balance is remarkable with the fruit and the structure already in harmony. The acidity is brilliant and the wine just sings out already. Thrilling and exceptional at this moment, I'd love to see what happens to this in the future!

Blind. Earth, cherry and pepper. Tight on the palate, the wine feels like it is really holding back. Good balance, but no spark at this moment, so give it some more time.

Served blind. Roast vegetables and stalks, some smoke and redcurrant. Medium bodied on the palate, the balance is nicely done but the wine doesn't hit any heights. Yet another disappointing 2004, blind or non-blind I'm rarely happy with them.

Served blind (and picked on the first sniff as Clonakilla SV). A real aromatic lift on the nose with candied red fruits, florals and cherry. Full bodied palate, with good acidity lifting it all up. Nice length and drive. Ridiculously expensive on the auction market due to its scarcity, not worth that tariff, but still a very good wine.

Chocolate, kirsch and raspberry. Very primary still, especially on the palate, with the red fruits bursting forward. Vibrant and appealing, this could do with another 5 years to see how it develops.

Grapefruit, honey, sea spray, spice and musk. Delicate palate, it has the right mix of sweet fruit and some brightness that it is appealing right now to drink. Wouldn't expect that this will live for the very long term, but I could be surprised!

Too advanced.