2007 France Trip - Opening Night, Mordoree, Rayas
Southern Rhone
Tasted May 6, 2007 - May 7, 2007 by Siggy with 1,009 views
Flight 1 - Opening Night (6 notes)
I arrived at Chateau Talaud, our wonderful B&B in the small village of Loriol-du-Comtat, after a late afternoon taxi ride from the Marseille airport. This was my second time staying at Talaud, and I was really looking forward to kicking back and enjoying a week in Provence. There was a wine glass in my hand less than 5 minutes after I walked in the door – let the games begin! Before dinner, we kicked back and opened several different southern Rhones with our hosts, Hein and Conny Deiters-Kommer, and two of their friends. While sipping wine, we were glued to the TV coverage of the French Presidential election results (Sarkozy won with 53% of the vote).
Flight 2 - Dinner @ Le Vivier (4 notes)
We took a taxi to Le Vivier, an impressive two-year-old restaurant in L’Isle Sur La Sorgue, which overlooks the Sorgue river. Interesting menu (main course: lamb chops and tenderloin), and a great value at 39 Euro for three courses.
White
2005 Château d'Aqueria Lirac Blanc
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Lirac
From 375ml. Initially cheesy nose that quickly blew off. White flowers, cantaloupe, white peaches. Nice acidity and freshness.
Red
2001 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The nose smells like a Grand Cru Burgundy, fragrant with earth and forest floor. The Burgundian character carries through to the palate, which shows baking spices, black fruits, and a oregano/herbal note on the midpalate. As the wine sat in the glass, it picked up a touch of VA. Blind, I would probably peg this as a Bonnes Mares.
Flight 3 - Domaine de la Mordoree (9 notes)
Our first appointment was with the enthusiastic, effervescent Christophe Delorme at Domaine de la Mordoree. Christophe spent a full two hours with us, starting with a fascinating driving tour of Mordoree’s vineyards in Tavel. He showed us the three basic types of terroir in Tavel: sandy clay, caillou rocks, and limestone soils. We then proceeded to taste through several finished wines and barrel samples. As my notes indicate, I was impressed with Mordoree’s portfolio. I continue to rank this domaine right at the top of my favorites in the Southern Rhone.
Red
2006 Domaine de la Mordorée Côtes du Rhône La Dame Rousse
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Bottled one week prior. Opaque purple. Spicy chocolate cherries and BIG blackberry fruit. Elegant, ripe tannins. Still shows like a barrel sample. Looks to be an excellent, and unusually concentrated and structured, Cotes-du-Rhone. Later, Christophe Delorme told us that be believes the gap in quality between Mordoree’s Cote-du-Rhone and Chateauneuf-du-Pape is much narrower than usual in 2006.
Red
2005 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Pure, fresh black raspberry fruit. Rich and concentrated, with great structure and length. The midpalate picks up some forest floor/earth notes. Supple and smooth in the mouth. Huge finish. Formidable, but beautifully ripe and fine tannins. Christophe believes this is the best Chateauneuf they have made, surpassing even the 2001.
Red
2005 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Plume du Peintre
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Tasted from cask ; 1,600 bottles to be produced. 100% Grenache from La Crau. Aged 2/3 in cask and 1/3 in barrel. As great as the Reine des Bois was, this was a step up. An incredible mélange of smoky black fruit, forest floor, and blood/iron. Intense, with complex, ever-changing aromatics. Huge power and concentration, yet this is amazingly fresh and balanced. Silky and beguiling. Wow!
Red
2006 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Cask sample (not the final blend). Mordoree will not make a Plume de Peintre in 2006, as Christophe believes the character of the vintage favors blends, rather than a single vineyard expression. Dark fruits, cherry cola, ash/tobacco. Concentrated, with good acidity and freshness. Slightly herbal on the midpalate. Seems more about finesse than power and structure. Promising.
Flight 4 - Lunch @ L’Isola del Sole (1 note)
A good pizzeria / Italian restaurant.
Flight 5 - Chateau Rayas (3 notes)
We had the rare opportunity to meet Emmanuel Raynaud at Chateau Rayas. Mr. Raynaud met us outside, and after a long chat, he led us into the cave for a tasting of 2006 barrel samples. Rayas’ terroir is sandy clay soil (the legend is that Emmanuel’s grandfather had every single rock removed by hand from all the vineyards), and the wines smelled and tasted very Burgundian, and would easily have fooled me in a blind tasting. All of Rayas’ CDPs are 100% Grenache, and Raynaud uses as little new oak as possible. I must confess that I was a bit underwhelmed by the two CDPs at this point in their evolution. Both came across as quite herbal.
Red
2006 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Reserve
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Three barrel samples tasted : #1 (100% Cinsault) showed raspberries, minerals, earth, and garrigue; #2 (100% Grenache) was bolder and more fragrant, with baking spices, red fruits, and herbs, #3 (100% Syrah) showed graphite, smoke, black fruits, with a slightly drying finish; and #4 (100% Syrah) was a more powerful expression of iron, soy, and black fruit. The final assemblage here should be interesting.
Red
2006 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Two barrel samples tasted: #1 showed herbs, tea, and pure red cherry fruit; #2 was spicier and more herbal, with flavors of Maraschino cherries and tea.
Flight 6 - Dinner @ La Grand Pre (4 notes)
This was my second dinner at this restaurant in the small town of Roaix. Dinner was very good, although not as impressive as last year. Our tasting menu included a white asparagus/fois gras tart with fresh herbs, langostines, and pigeon.
White
2004 Domaine Bernard Gripa St. Péray
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Péray
A Marsanne/Rousanne blend. Intense, floral, Burgundian nose. Citrus fruits, chalk, and honey. Crisp and dry in the mouth.
Red
1989 Domaine les Goubert Gigondas Cuvée Florence
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas
Second time I’ve had this. Maroon. Moderate VA on the nose. Red cherries, tea, and earth. Opened up and put on weight in the glass. Sous bois. Well-resolved tannins. Slightly drying finish.
Red
2004 Domaine des Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Villages Roaix Les Hautes des Granges
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Roaix
5000 bottles produced. From 500ml. Smells and tastes like a 2005 Hermitage barrel sample - wow! Dark black/purple color. Smoke, concentrated blackberry liquor, pencil lead, ink, and violets. Huge concentration and great balance. Incredible structure and balance. Ultra-fine, ripe tannins on the finish. A great value (20 Euro on the list). Why isn’t this producer better known in the US? Screaming BUY.
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