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Burgundy, Barolo Dinner @ BRERA, Los Angeles
Officine BRERA
Tasted October 20, 2016 by Robert Pavlovich with 365 views
Introduction
An epic dinner was enjoyed by seven of us at BRERA in Los Angels the other night. In a private room in the back, with a full service staff, and private chef Angelo, the service, food, and pairings were incredible.
The White Burgundy flight was dazzling, and the red burgs were on another level. While we were all looking forward to the Barolo's, they couldn't quite keep up with their french counterparts on the night.
Flight 1 (9 notes)
White - Sparkling
1999 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses
Nose relatively shut. Nice and fresh on the palate, with crisp citrus and hints of brioche notes starting to form. Showing younger, and not as open as another bottle opened 6 months ago. Showed pretty well overall, but wish I'd kept this one a decade longer.
White - Sparkling
1966 Bollinger Champagne
Tart, sour apple, orange rind, brioche, petrol, and much more on the nose. Solid acidity still, though not very fresh, and not a lot of fruit left either. Falls off a bit toward the end but not without some grace. Most of the interest is on the complex, aromatic nose. Would recommend drinking soon.
White
2007 Etienne Sauzet Bâtard-Montrachet
95 points
There was not a single note of noise or impression of alcohol on this pure, and light to medium bodied Batard. The lemon fruit was subdued and silky in texture, with a heady mineral streak. Minimal oak/tannin impression. Impeccably balanced, and graceful. Would be a great wine to serve to someone who's anti-chardonnay. If anything, it only comes up a little short in power, depth, and complexity, which are of course not the hallmarks of the vintage. Paired brilliantly with Langostino.
White
1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet
Slightly broader, and with more stucture than the other GC's on the table (07' Sauzet Batard, and 04' PYCM Chevy). A nice showing, though the purity of fruit is not evident here, and as a result, not quite up to the crystaline Sauzet, and laser like PYCM. Paired well with Norwegian Halibut and porcini mushrooms.
White
2004 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chevalier-Montrachet
93 points
On the sweeter side, though not over done, with a direct lemon impression, and well integrated acidity and structure. Almost cartoonish how laser like the balance of the wine is, with the sweetness poking out just a hair. Excellent mineral impression underneath, though not with a lot of cut, this is friendlier on the attack. This improved slightly over the first hour, but this is well built and drinking toward its peak plateau. Paired beautifully with Nova Scotian Lobster, though overall preferred the 07' Sauzet Batard.
Red
1966 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
96 points
Archetypal, masculine chambertin. The medium plus freshness and tart red fruits made for a dazzling entry and mid palate, giving the impression that the wine could live on for decades longer. There was a good spice component, and a slight charcoal effect that did not detract, making this 50 yr. old all the more believable, memorable and age appropriate, as it finished gracefully with some power in reserve. Received the most votes for WOTN, and deserving of the crown.
Red
1966 Maison Leroy Chapelle-Chambertin
94 points
Served side by side with a 66' Faiveley Clos de Beze. At once, the 66' Leroy Chapelle had us shifting gears to what was clearly a contrasting style. While the Faiveley was built on freshness and a slight rusticity, the Leroy was all about concentration, darker fruit, and some sweetness, though still with a firm line of acidity, and mostly resolved tannin. This wine also showed plenty of life, on its plateau with no signs of slowing down any time soon. Saw less than an hour of air before serving. Quite a wine, but part of a better flight.
Red
1988 La Pousse d'Or Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollières
The '88 Pousse d'Or showed in a decidedly softer, more feminine style than the wines preceding it (66' Faiveley Beze, 66' Leroy Chapelle Chambertin), however it still held some tension and intruige, and plenty of delicious dark plum fruit. Most of us thought this showed well above it's vineyard designation, which was not much of a surprise, it being crafted by the great Gerard Potel. This bottle seemed slightly more at peak, and closer to decline than the Chambertin's.
Red
1985 Louis Jadot Musigny
95 points
This was a seamless wine, at the beginning of its plateau. Fresh, pure, and near peak, with gorgeous dark red fruit, spice, and the brooding complexity of Musigny. Served after two 66' GC's (Faiveley Beze, Leroy Chapelle), this was a candidate for WOTN along with the 66' Faiveley, though may fall just short of it as the Faiveley seemed a bit more singular and memorable. Paired with Black and White Truffle Risotto, this was my favorite pairing of the night, and maybe of all time for me.
Closing
There was a star studded Barolo flight to close out the night, highlighted by a Giacosa Santo Stefano, and a super rare G Rinaldi Brunate Special Riserva. Having consumed plenty of champagne and burgundy beforehand, I believe it detracted from my experience of the wines. However, we soldiered on, and had a great 79' Savennieres that was still fresh as a daisy, and cleansed the palate beautifully. Cuban cigars after dessert were had. Quite a night.