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Dinner at St Jacques - The Night Before The Once In A Lifetime Dinner

Raleigh, NC

Tasted June 22, 2007 by JeffGMorris with 748 views

Introduction

Dena & I got together with Steve, Barb, Bill, Brian & Lauren at the wonderful St Jacques in North Raleigh to start the weekend of indulgence off right. Lil was his usual masterful self as Maitre d' and Sommelier providing all the glasses & decanters we could want and the difficult task of keeping up with all the glasses that quickly consumed our round table in the corner.

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Off-dry
2001 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
91 points
AP #7-02. Opened at home with Steve & Barb and some fantastic duck rillettes a couple of hours before leaving for the restaurant. Green tinged in the glass, this wine is clearly Auslese in weight but nicely balanced so that it does drink like a Spatlese, albeit a very generous one. Beautiful nose of spiced pears and some flowers is followed by a medium bodied palate that reveals very deep fruit and a great richness. Medium length finish that I expect to increase in length and complexity with more time. A great wine to drink today, while it still shows much of the exuberance of it's youth, and potentially even better ( though for different reasons ) for another 20+ years. Has to be one of the greatest bargains ever for wine having been about $15 on release! 50+13+12+8+8.5 = 91.5+

Flight 2 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1976 René Collard Champagne Cuvée du Roi René France, Champagne
95 points
Medium gold in the glass with tiny bubbles. As soon as I picked up the glass I found the beautifully complex aroma of homemade taiglach that I find in so many of these aged Collards. Medium plus bodied and very elegant. A long and complex finish closes things out. This was a terrific way to start what was to be a fantastic meal. I'm not sure I understand the comments I have seen from some other tasters of this wine being made in an overly oxidative style. Neither I nor anyone I have ever shared one of these with has noted this. Sure wish I had more than my dwindling supply of these Collards from the '70s. 50+13.5+13.5+9+9 = 95

Flight 3 (1 note)

White
1990 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune France, Alsace
90 points
Medium yellow in color, this wine was very muted and closed. With time in the glass it opened a little but not much. Clearly has very good potential but not tonight. 50+12+12+8+8 = 90+

Flight 4 (4 notes)

Red
1994 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
93 points
Dark ruby in color, this showed all the classic signs of a top quality Northern Rhone red. Medium bodied with notes of meat and a nice spicyness. Very rich on the palate and long on the finish. With additional air the funkier side of Cote Rotie started to rear it's head and my level of enjoyment diminished but was still quite high. 50+13+13+8.5+8.5 = 93
Red
1996 Artadi Rioja Pagos Viejos Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
flawed
Horribly corked.
Red
1987 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
90 points
Violet in color, this displayed many of the features of a top notch Bordeaux. Lots of lead pencil notes on the nose and good deep fruit on the palate. Dusty tannins on the finish. An excellent wine but it does not come across as being overly compelling for me. 50+12+12+8+8 = 90
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Red
1981 Bertani Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Amarone Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Superiore
94 points
Purple in color, this wine showed a great richness to it along with strong chocolate notes. Has a port-like richness and depth to the fruit but without any of the heat and tannic structure associated with Port. Very nice with the beef but would probably do best with a cheese plate. 50+13+13+9+9 = 94

Flight 5 (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1953 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
93 points
Light amber in color, this wine was excellent but lacking a little something when compared to the incredible '59s from Huet. Waxy with quinine notes. Complex yet fresh and somewhat youthful at the same time. Only suffers when compared to the '59s. 50+13+13+8.5+8.5 = 93

Closing

The night came off without a hitch ( well except our lone corked bottle for the weekend and maybe the rather aromatic taxi ride! ). The food highlight for me was clearly the Ravioli Whittington, one of the finest dishes I've ever had and one I can't wait to go back and try yet again. And the funniest moment of the evening was definitely getting into the cab to go home to find our same aromatic driver from the earlier trip in the other direction!

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