Paired with the Domaine Coursodon St. Joseph Le Paradis Saint-Pierre Blanc 2005. Very similar to my previous note, but this pale-greenish golden wine seems to have evolved slightly in the past four-and-a-half months. The Marsanne-dominated aromas on the floral nose seem a little more intense, and the rounded, harmonious and pure palate seems fuller and more relaxed. There is a distinct note of salinity and the bitters are quite powerful; length is very good.

Paired with the Saint-Péray 2014 from Domaine Auguste Clape. Medium deep yellow colour; deep if restrained nose, hints of honey and spices, candied fruit, mineral depth; quite a weighty palate, touch of oak, hints of yeast and cream from the bâtonnage; good length, with some back-end heat. Remarkably fresh and lively for age, holds up effortlessly over 24 hours in the open bottle. Best enjoyed for its rich flavours between 12ºC and 14ºC.

Paired with the 2010 Crozes-Hermitage from Domaine Alain Graillot. Less farmyardy than the previous bottle (but not without a hint of the stables), with beautifully pure, sweet fruit on the nose and a very energetic, fresh and tight palate. Will improve with a few more years in bottle. I like it very much in its present state, but this sentiment was not shared by all tonight.

Paired with Le Vin des Amis 2014 from Domaine Auguste Clape. This is such a wonderful Crozes. Youthful and vibrant purple colour; great purity of fruit on the nose, black pepper, violets and some warmth and spice from the wood; the palate remains tight and energetic after more than six years, mineral and fresh, pure flavours; very good length. I really enjoyed including this in tonight's tasting, but I will keep my remaining bottles until 2019/2020 at least.

Paired with the Saint-Joseph La Sensonne 2005 from Domaine Coursodon. Unlike the bottle tasted yesterday, this is in good nick. No detailed notes. The colour is quite youthful for age; the nose seems a bit tired, but the palate is quite youthful still. Solid wine, completely ready, no need to wait.

Paired with the Saint-Joseph 2005 from Domaine Courbis. The only wine tonight to be overtly oaky - but in a very nice way. Modern, glossy, luxurious new barrique, rounded and rich, juicy and supple, good weight, ripe and well-balanced, far less about varietal typicity than about a polished profile (in fact it could easily be mistaken for a claret), but with its lowish if lively acidity and ripe phenolics, it is very attractive. Pure and richly fruited flavours, medium weight, very good length. A universal favourite tonight. Mature, with time in hand. Now - 2020+.

Paired with the Cornas 2005 from Auguste Clape. Identical to my previous note.

Paired with the Cornas Champelrose 2005 from Domaine Courbis. This a classical and structured wine, very Cornas, very Clape, very 2005, but it does not scale the heights which the 2009 and (in particular) the 2010 attain. Pure and powerful, with restrained but beautifully nuanced fruit, concentrated but not at all big or brutish, vibrant acidity and quite dusty tannins, mineral and with a touch of eucalyptus, very good length. This is the Rhône equivalent of Léoville-Barton in a vintage like 1988 or 1996. Will age well of course (even on the third day it remains completely freshn tight and tannic), but I am not exactly sure where this is going. The quality is undeniable, its charms are limited.

The first wine of the third part of this tasting, a collection of eight Côte Rôtie wines, and one which, together with the 2007 Barbarine which accompanied it, immediately confirms the difference between the slightly more pedestrian appellations around Valence and the queen of the Rhône. The delightful and lifted nose is very expressive and aromatic, bright and airy, with lots of sweet strawberries, peaches, violets and roses, a hint of fruity pepper and granitic freshness; the palate is sleek and juicy, fresh and relaxed, balanced and elegant, slightly on the dry side, light flavours; slender but not drying finish, good length. Completely intact on the second day - and even on the third. Drink now - 2020+.

Paired with the Rostaing Côte Blonde 2007. No detailed notes. Very expressive, explosive nose, an essence of the Côte Brune, could almost be confused with a Spätburgunder from Assmannshausen, beguiling and long. Fabulous wine, a strong contender for wine of the night.

Paired with the 2005 Côte Rôtie from Tardieu-Laurent. No detailed notes. More about structure than about aromatics, but seems to have entered its plateau of maturity.

Paired with the M&S Ogier Côte Rôtie 2005. This is a wine that convincingly shows the unpolished, difficult side of this great vintage. Rich and powerful, tannic and concentrated. Needs 24 hours in the open bottle to start showing some of the explosive aromatics which it still keeps hidden. On the third day it is still completely intact but again a bit more open and relaxed, with some charming, crushed red berries. Excellent wine, but patience is required. Next bottle in 2020.

Paired with the 2003. Tonight the contrast between the two vintages (diametrically opposed from a climate perspective), seemed less distinct than it was before. This is obviously cooler and sleeker than the deeper and richer 2003, more transparent and mineral, with flavours of smoked bacon and violets and on the second day the lavish oak (38 months, 100% new), still completely hidden on day one, is starting to show a bit. It's an excellent wine (completely intact on day three), but I think it may need a little time right now.

Paired with the 2004. Tonight the contrast between the two vintages (diametrically opposed from a climate perspective), seemed less distinct than it was before. This is obviously not as cool and sleek as the lighter and more elegant 2004, not as transparent and mineral but richer and deeper, powerful and concentrated, creamy and rounded, very energetic and with just a whiff of currants, very good length. It is showing its mineral and oaky side more than before. Maybe it is better to wait a few years now? Long life.

Paired with Chapoutier La Mordorée 1999. Identical to my previous note. A beautiful example of a classic Côte Rôtie in full maturity.

Paired with the Côte Rôtie Cuvée Classique 1999 from René Rostaing. No detailed notes. It is not as dense and forbidding as it was before, the oak is still pretty prominent, but as a whole the wine feels more relaxed and open. Still decades ahead of it.

Two bottles opened tonight. Both are fine, if not as rich and exotic as previous bottles. It is "un vieux monsieur", but it still walks without a stick.