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A German Wine Tasting-cum-Lunch

Restaurant De Nederlanden *, Vreeland, NL

Tasted January 28, 2017 by Xavier Auerbach with 529 views

Flight 1 - A decade of Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Erstes / Grosses Gewächs (10 notes)

White
2014 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Grosses Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
92 points
Quite a feminine style, elegant and floral, youthful but not tight or austere, juicy and fresh, with well-integrated acidity, airy, reticent but well-defined, opens up nicely, steely acidity, very good length. Lovely wine.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2013 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Grosses Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
91 points
Hint of cork but not impossible to assess. Very elegant and feminine style, floral, expressive, lovely definition, delicate, pineapple, more ripe fruit than the 2014, pear, good length.
White
2012 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Grosses Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
90 points
Fuller style than both the 2014 and the 2013, broader shoulders and more weight, well-balanced, but not very expressive and there is a bitter vegetal note. Not sure about this one.
White
2011 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Erstes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
91 points
Quite ripe on the nose, good stuffing of fruit, adequate acidity, quite developed already, typical for the vintage.
White
2010 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Erstes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
93 points
Wonderful tension between tropical fruit and high but well integrated acidity, very complex, vibrant and lively, intense and linear, energetic and long, quite a stand-out in this line-up.
White
2009 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Erstes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
92 points
Supple and rounded, harmonious, displays the warmth of the vintage, the richest vintage so far in this tasting, but not big or burly, does not really stay true to its delicate style, powerful, not very typical for Rheingau, excellent length.
White
2008 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Erstes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
92 points
Playful and elegant, refined, has aged very well, drinking beautifully right now, powerful, slightly closed on the nose, lovely length.
White
2007 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Erstes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
92 points
Classic, spicy Rheingau character, restrained nose, good balance and weight, vibrant and lively, typical elegance, harmonious, in a nice place right now.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2006 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Erstes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
91 points
By far the biggest of the ten vintages tasted today with its 14% ABV, with a tropical note to the fruit, slightly alcoholic, complex and rich but not very elegant, impressive but hardly the epitome of finesse, quite untypical for a Silberlack, but very good in its own way.
White
2005 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Silberlack Erstes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
92 points
Fully mature, waxy evolution, still has a lovely freshness and good definition of fruit, good length. Impressive.

Flight 2 - A decade of Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewächs (10 notes)

White
2014 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Wonderfully pure and floral nose, dry and tight for this wine but in keeping with the vintage, very young and mineral, tightly wound, energetic, long. Needs time. Great stuff.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2013 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Slightly stinky and sweaty, riper and rounder than 2014, very stylish, silky and supple, elegant, harmonious, good length.
White
2012 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Good weight and fruit, very typical for 2012, broad but with that pure and precise Keller-style, will develop into a classic.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2011 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
Remarkably bright and youthful for a 2011, lovely definition and freshness, slightly volatile, not really correct. Not rated.
White
2010 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
94 points
Hint of spontaneous fermentation, real 2010 character, a wow-wine, amazing tension, exciting. Needs time.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2009 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Deeper and richer than both the 2010 and the 2008, aromatically not very giving at the moment, but really succulent and delicious.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2008 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
92 points
Playful, aromatic herbs, elegance and tension, good weight, slightly odd bubblegum nose, lovely length.
White
2007 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Classic style, vibrant and harmonious, satiny and flowing.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2006 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
92 points
Richer and weightier style, less vibrant than most other vintages, slightly looser but quite sexy and seductive.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2005 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
94 points
So rich and fresh, elegant and exuberant, pure fruit with a tropical edge, steely acidity, powerful but linear, energetic and long. A masterful Hubacker.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - 2008 Forster Grosse Gewächse from Von Buhl and Bürklin-Wolf (8 notes)

White
2008 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Pechstein Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Pfalz
92 points
Deep and rich, spicy minerality, expressive and rich, balanced and fresh, extract and tension.
White
2008 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Pechstein Riesling Germany, Pfalz
91 points
Deep and rich and vinous, quite unyielding, clearly harvested riper than at Von Buhl, impressive but not very precise.
White
2008 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Pfalz
92 points
Mineral and precise, apricot, spicy depth, hint of blonde caramel, slightly tight, powerful and long.
White
2008 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling Germany, Pfalz
Slightly oxidative. Not rated.
White
2008 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Pfalz
92 points
Marries depth and elegance, orange fruit, playful but serious, depth and lift, ripe and juicy, impressive.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2008 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Ungeheuer Riesling Germany, Pfalz
93 points
Ripe but exciting, very mineral, spices, vinous and ripe, deep, wonderful concentration and length, but slightly unyielding. Needs time.
White
2008 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Pfalz
92 points
Recognisable Von Buhl style in 2008, but with added richness and warmth, not as precise and vibrant though, not very expressive and no match for the Bürklin-Wolf rendition.
White
2008 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Germany, Pfalz
95 points
Spectacular depth and concentration, rich and powerful. Outstanding.

Flight 4 - Aperitif and Lunch (7 notes)

Rosé - Sparkling
2005 Künstler Rosé Sekt Brut Germany, Rheingau
89 points
Disgorged May 2015 (!). Medium copper colour with a hint of orange; ripe orange fruit with a candied note, warm spices; soft but fresh palate, lots of yeasty notes but rounded rather than austere; finishes with a hint of honey, good resonance and length.
White
2008 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Nahe
91 points
Fully mature, honeyed and floral, hint of earth, fruit salad, rounded but carried by its fresh 2008 acidity, lovely balance, good length.
White - Off-dry
2007 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Grünlack Spätlese Germany, Rheingau
91 points
Very refined, elegant, delicate, juicy, elegant sweetness, charming and long. Undemonstrative, beautiful.
Red
1998 Georg Breuer Spätburgunder Pinot Noir Germany, Rheingau
89 points
Magnum, a late release from Breuer's Schatzkammer. Mature, gentle, wet undergrowth, honey and strawberries, light weight, lovely balance, juicy and elegant, hint of black tea, nice length. Has survived surprisingly well.
Red
2009 Weingut Keller Frauenberg Spätburgunder Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Double decanted. Very impressive, noble oak, slightly caramelly, very youthful, very pure, cherries and red berries, mineral and powerful, intense but very closed, excellent resonance and length. Needs a lot more time.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Beerenauslese Germany, Pfalz
96 points
Half bottle. Immensely impressive, a nectar with its 270 gr/l of residual sugar, but not gloopy thanks to searing acidity (TA 17 gr/l), fleshy and intense but with lovely lift and lightness of touch, only a little botrytis but with a hint of honey, spiced Eiswein-like apples, very sweet and concentrated, unending finish. Will last a century. Note: I kept a half bottle in the fridge until 15 February (!) in which less than half a glass remained. When I tasted it, it was still intact. Further proof that this wine will be virtually immortal.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Beerenauslese Germany, Pfalz
93 points
Rich and golden colour; wonderful botrytis on the airy nose, ripe peaches and honey, just a hint of VA, touch of eucalyptus; rich and rounded palate, good weight and richness, velvety, medium sweet, firm acidity; subtle black tea bitters on the complex finish (honey, flowers, aromatic green herbs), very good length. Holds up well over more than 24 hours in the fridge. Excellent, ten more years easily.
2 people found this helpful Comment
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