Slightly musty on the nose initially, but this blows off to reveal a classic Tondo profile. Pale to mid straw. Lemony, waxy and a touch of lanolin. Lovely. ****

Significantly more advanced in colour than the 01, this is full gold. Full and round but it hasn't stayed as fresh as it might have done. Jolly tasty but stands out a little in the company. Must check the colour of my bottles. Decent but a little underwhelming considering previous bottles of this. ***

Lighter colour, more like the 01 Reserva than the 96 Reserva. Really tangy and saline on the nose. More focus and cut and line. Makes the Reservas seem a little flabby. Could be GC Chablis on the nose and attack. Sheer class. Holds well in glass over a couple of hours, if anything sharpening up and taking on a grapefruit aroma. ****1/2

As per Friday's bottle, this is all red fruited elegance. Bright, lovely line. Long. Possibly just starting to close down a little, but very much in line with previously. Really lovely. **(**1/2)

Currently a bit fuller. Nicely plush whilst keeping its line. Similar profile on the finish. Just a bit broader and possibly simpler on the attack. ****

Dark red fruit. Good acidity. Mid palate richness. Still some tannin in the finish. All there for the future, and this has really come on in the past six years since last tasting. Needs a few more years to develop an extra layer of complexity and nuance. ****

Bright red berry fruit. Lots here. A little bite. Lovely line. Long and lithe. Gorgeous. Holds well over the evening. Absolutely singing now. Twenty one or so appears to be an Ardanza sweet spot.****1/2

Richer and oakier and plusher on the nose. Everything the Ardanza had, but dialled up to ten. A qualitative difference,Ma stylistic one? Not sure, but currently dialled down a little is better. Excellent wine, louder but just a little flat compared to the Ardanza. ****

A touch more workmanlike and slightly feral in the nose cf the LRA wines. Coarser would be too harsh, but lacking a little polish and refinement perhaps. Good wine, but the poor cousin in the flight. ****

Under the centenary subtitled label. Similar nose to the 95. Plush, a little oaky. Fresher on the attack, but some breadth through the mid palate. Some coconut emerging on the nose with time. ****

Red fruit, a touch of cream. A little darker and less bright than the 95. A little softer too. This has a nice weight. ****

Mute nose. Quite hot on the palate. Smokey, flabby. Doesn't really stand up in the trad company. Perfectly OK, but just pales by comparison. Would show well (and quite traditionally) in modern company. bare ***

Nicely bright red fruit. Classic Tondo with a little more weight and richness at the moment than some. Still beautifully fresh. Similar profile to the 95 Ardanza. Lovely. Coffee ground nose starting to develop. ****1/2

Fresh, mid red fruit mid red fruit, a little brighter on the nose than palate. Lighter framed with good acidity. A touch of orange peel and ground coffee on the mid palate. Finishes brightly. Lovely. ****

Just starting to do the orange peel nose. So harmonious and complex. There's richness, a hint of padding, but this is classical in line and form. Hard to imagine how this particular bottle could be improved upon. *****