Damilano Single Vineyards
Ai Fiori (Langham Hotel on 5th Ave)
Tasted February 2, 2018 by MC2 Wines with 209 views
Introduction
Another awesome wine dinner @ Ai Fiori. We're planning a trip to Piedmont in November (suggestions welcome!) and wanted to do some 'research' before the trip. I had not realized that Barolo has some similarities to Burgundy where a number of producers are making wine from the same vineyards and there are some iconic vineyards. Also learning my way through producers, but must say I really enjoyed these wines.
Flight 1 - Pre dinner drink (1 note)
Due to some flight issues I arrived at the restaurant a few hours before the dinner and without having had lunch. Luckily there was a sparkling and oyster special which I could partake of while finishing up some work for the day.
Rosé - Sparkling
2011 Antica Fratta Franciacorta Brut Rosé
Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG
Off the by the glass list at Ai Fiori in NYC. And it was on a bit of a discount for the happy hour special. This is nice and light and easy drinking and meant to be paired with the oyster special. I liked the way the fruit complemented the saltiness of the oysters. It's just the faintest hint of wild strawberries and rose petals. Enjoyable.
Flight 2 - First course (1 note)
Vitello Tonnato
classic tonnato sauce, capers, lemon, black truffle
I am not 100% sure this was the best pairing mostly because this dish was so good it almost stole the show a bit from the wine.
(I should note there was a chardonnay and hors d'oeuvres course before this, but as I'm not big on chard and I had some sparkling left over I passed on that)
Red
2011 Damilano Barolo Brunate
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
From a vineyard with 40-60 year old vines. It is 30% sandy soil and the rest mostly clay and limestone. Interesting to try this next to the Cerequio since the wines were so very different. The first word that came to mind was animal skin. More savory in nature. Maybe some cacao beans. Herbal. When I first tried it I thought I could just detect a hint of red fruit in the background, but when I came back 20 minutes later it was def black. Very young and needs more time. It's nice though and the evolution in the glass over the maybe 30 minutes we drank it was quite impressive. Enjoyed.
Flight 3 - Second course (1 note)
Piccione
pan roasted squab, beluga lentils (should also have had mushrooms but I passed on those)
Excellent pairing - the sauce on the squab hit just the right note to bring out the cherry in the wine. Very nicely done.
Red
2012 Damilano Barolo Cerequio
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Amazing the contrast to the Brunate. The origin of the vineyard's name is the Italian word for a very ripe cherry sitting on the tree just a bit longer. Also 40-60 year old vines. My first thoughts were clove and spices and maybe hints of floral and then the red fruit (mostly cherries) comes through. It's light and elegant. The owner would say perhaps not quite as structured, but I thought maybe just young and so not with the same nuance as some of the older wines that came later, but I wonder if this wouldn't get there with some time.
Flight 4 - Third course (2 notes)
Agnolotti
braised veal parcels, crispy sunchokes (should also have had beech mushrooms but again passed)
This is one of my favorite dishes at Ai Fiori and so always a treat to have. Just little bundles of goodness.
Red
2012 Damilano Barolo Cannubi
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The crown jewel of the single vineyards from what I could tell. Interesting because early in my notes I had guessed a sandy soil vineyard and that is indeed what this is. 60 year old vines. Marked as a vineyard that produces wine that is drinkable quickly - the type of bottles you should be able to pnp. This is also herbal with some red fruits. There's a lovely elegance and structure to it. Young and still building character. Not at the level of the 2004 we had alongside which was just singing, but with potential. Nice acidity.
Red
2004 Damilano Barolo Cannubi
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Poured from a mag. This wine was just on this night. It's very pretty and elegant and herbal and crisp autumn leaves and maybe just a touch of olive brine as well. I get a very ripe black plum and an intensity of flavor without being overpowering in the mouth. Layered and complex and just a great wine. Perhaps the wine that was shining the most this night.
Flight 5 - Fourth course (2 notes)
Brasato di Manzo
red wine braised short ribs, root vegetables, pommes puree
Delicious, just melts in the mouth and was a nice pairing with the wine. Unfortunately by this point in the meal I was basically full (I did after all clean the plate of agnolottis).
Red
2008 Damilano Barolo Riserva 1752 Cannubi
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Really soft. Red and black fruits. Blueberry, tea leaves, floral. It's too young but it's a very pretty wine. Made from the higher elevation more sun touched areas of the Cannubi vineyard. It was a bit finding its feet during the dinner, but in a good way where it draws you in and each new sip is just a bit different. A wine I'd lay down for another 10-15 years. Very intriguing and quite enjoyable.
Red
1999 Damilano Barolo Riserva
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The classic barolo approach where grapes from different vineyards were blended (the single vineyard approach came a bit later). At the time these were 30-35 year old vineyards. This was just a more muscular wine. Very powerful. Very tasty. Can tell it's more mature and just well integrated. I enjoyed it. Interesting to try next to the '1752' which was much more finesse.
Flight 6 - Dessert (1 note)
Cioccolato
hazelnut praline, white espresso gelato
Really nicely done. The bit of crunch adds a good texture to the chocolate.
Red - Fortified
N.V. Damilano Barolo Chinato
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo Chinato
This is a change for sure from the regular barolos and I imagine the score reflects that this is a different animal altogether from a standard wine, but it's actually pretty nice. Think mulled wine but not really heated. Juniper and ginger and a bazillion other random herbs and spices. They prefer not to say fortified but instead something like supplemented. Only 16% which is not too crazy for an after dinner sipper. Very easy and I found myself quite enjoying it. For one person in our party it was a candidate for WOTN just given how different it was.
Flight 7 - After dinner drink (1 note)
Not done with Barolo we ordered a bottle off the restaurant wine list. I will say I much preferred the wines we had with dinner which were more thoughtful and elegant. On the heels of those this came across as a bit more gloppy and overly fruit forward. Interesting comparison point.
Red
2006 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne Sibi et Paucis
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Drank after a wonderful Damilano wine dinner at Ai Fiori because we just weren't quite done with Barolo. I'll say on the heels of that this just felt a bit more intense. Fruit much more prevalent and almost in your face. A bit less acidity or structure to balance. I think it might have been the situation, but I didn't find myself appreciating this as much as I'd hoped to.
Closing
Overall an excellent dinner. Some of the older stuff was just awesome. The 2004 was singing and that 2008 was a really special wine. Fun to try across a few vineyards and then to dive deeper into the Cannubi. Very well organized and thought out and the food was excellent as well.
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