Right down the middle. A fairly creamy texture for Muscadet with tell-tale salinity, brine, sea-shells, and minerals. Grand Vin!

They just don't make them like this anymore. I opened this three hours or so before dinner and let it sit, and by the time we got to it, it was singing. Still pale colored, it didn't give up much in the way of aromatics -- though others disagreed with me -- but the palate was beautiful, rainwater purity, and a rounded quality with all the minerals you could want, fanning out on the finish. It bears a passing, family sort of resemblance to the 1990 Vinothek in that regard.

If anything, fresher than the last bottle. Fresh red berries, beef blood, (clean) earth, some plums, and leather. Reminds me of a nice Cornas.

Alas, this had massive VA. I've never tasted shoe polish, but ooof, this sure smelled like it.

A nice rustic, French country wine. This was on the early side of approachable, starting to show development but, I hope, with a fair amount in reserve. There was a glimmer of red fruits peeking out from behind considerable turned earth, barnyard, and some brett, as well as some coarse tannin to resolve.

What a revelation. This managed a wonderful balance of power and refinement, an oxidative Chardonnay that spoke more of place than grape variety. This was intensely Arbois: earth and almonds, clove, citrus peel, and spice. Layer upon layer, depth, length -- just a beautiful bottle in its prime. Thanks so much to Joe for bringing this, and for suggesting we save it for last. This wine would be a very hard act to follow.