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From Paris with Love, 2019 Edition

Paris (Le Voltaire, La Tour D'Argent & Epicure)

Tasted November 15, 2019 - November 17, 2019 by Papies with 244 views

Introduction

Year in year out this is a pilgrimage to the great wine cellar of La Tour d’Argeant in Paris and the great culinary experience that Eric Frechon’s Epicure ( Now at its 20th year) is.

Flight 1 - Le Voltaire ( https://www.restaurantlevoltaire.com/) (3 notes)

Classic and elegant French bistro. Classy and classic crowd. Average to poor wine list

White
2015 Garnier et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
91 points
A very soft and polished expression of Le Clos ( list said Vaudesir but we happily accepted Le Clos :) ) , round good lime, saline and mineral edge. Delicious wine and I think we could have polished a second bottle easily and this speaks lots about the wine. Ok granted not the most depth or complexity here but we definitely enjoyed it. 91
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2007 Château Haut-Bailly France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
92 points
Another great 2007 and fro the young BDX vintages 2007 is shaping to be one of our favourite ones and an easy go to on Avery restaurant list.
This lovely Haut-Bailly was singing from the pop of the cork and we did not feel it needed decanting either. Still on the fruit but with a lovely evolved nose, leather, dark fruits, forest floor. Classic and elegant and effortless. 92-93
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2012 Louis Huot Champagne Annonciade France, Champagne
89 points
By the glass to finish our dinner at Le Voltaire, Paris.
A pretty enjoyable albeit not a standout wine , well made, round, nice rich profile and with a harmony to it. Good 89
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 - La Tour D'Argent - ( https://www.tourdargent.com/) (9 notes)

What once has fallen to the touristy scale is now making a comeback on food and quality. Of course the treasure here is its wine cellar which unique in the world. The food is now 1 star Michelin level albeit the prices or of 2-3 :) . A Mecca for wine lovers.

White
2004 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
94 points
Well evolved and beautifully mature , healthy, tertiary fruit, still a good helping of citrus but most of the fruit is well evolved. Very much alive on the palate, granted this is not a youthful wine but still very much on the go, good acidity and lightest floral and honey touches. Solid 94-95
2 people found this helpful Comments (2)
Red
1985 Domaine Trapet Latricières-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
95 points
This wine is one that needs to be sourced from a perfect cellar and in this case one of the best in the world the one of La Tour d’Argeant in Paris was the perfect source. Fragile and soft wine, well evolved, well matured, soft red fruit, earthy, forest floor feel. The fruit in the palate is however very much alive and hold its weight well, complex and very much what is expected in a way. A very happy 95 from us and we would however caution not to be served along strong tastes or other stronger wines as this would struggle to show in such an environment.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1982 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
100 points
Perfect from the first smile upon tasting it to the last drop in the glass over a good two hours. Sourced from the impeccable cellar of La tour d’Argeant in Paris and actually and sadly their last.
Smoky, soft spice, dark fruits. Bright and energetic and full of elegance, impressive energy actually and did not lose any of its spirit even after a good two hours. This much like its 1983 sister are for us simply perfect wines. We can go on and on here but really only one number can describe this wine. 100.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
96 points
This requires its time to open up and develop and surprisingly this is less evolved and open than the 1997 ( Papies 95-96) we had a week or so.
The start is a bit tight and muted, pretty on the palate but just the nose is not giving. With an hour on the clock this opened up, showed lovely evolution, smoky, roast meat nose and dark fruits. Compared to other Chave’s this never reached its full stride in the time we had but still this was a solid 96 from us and a superb wine. Decant pls. Lots of. Life in this
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1991 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
98 points
This wine needs a good hour to hit its full stride. The start is a bit worrying and we thought we chose the wrong vintage. Once it developed and opened up though there was no questioning this almost perfect wine ( missed the perfect score as it was compare to the perfect 1982 La Mouline) . Dark fruited, vibrant and full of elegance and complexity. Smoky, soft spice, earthy evolution on the palate but also full of energy and kept on going and going . Give this wine time to open up and then just sit back and enjoy the masterpiece this is. 98
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red - Fortified
1985 Mas Amiel Maury La Tour D'Argent France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Maury
89 points
By the glass , served via a pipette from a Marie Jeanne specially bottled for the La Tour d’Argeant in Paris.
Very energetic, fresh still and bright, lots of chocolate touches, candied dark fruits, rich core of fruits and big spirited palate. Interesting . 89
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red - Fortified
N.V. Taylor (Fladgate) Porto 12 Year Old Tawny - La Tour D'Argent Portugal, Douro, Porto
90 points
By the glass served via Pipette from a 5L bottle especially bottled for the La Tour d’Argeant in Paris.
Well round and albeit full on energetic and muscly still had an elegance and roundness to it. Aided by the oak this had a softness to it and was very enjoyable. Very classically port. 90
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
2004 Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Cuvée Le Paon France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon
91 points
By the glass at the La Tour D’Argeant in Paris.
Bright , floral, sweet citrus, firm and albeit on the sweet side of course has enough acidity to hold its own against a variety of desserts. In a way a sweet wine for people who don’t really like sweet wines. 91
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1997 Château Guiraud France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
91 points
By the glass at La Tour d’Argeant, Paris.
Very classically Sauternes with all the hallmarks, sweet ripe apricots, honey, vanilla touches and of course that depth of sweetness that comes from noble rot. Blind we could have thought of it a Tokaji too . 91
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Epicure, Paris - ( https://www.oetkercollection.com/fr/hotels/le-bristol-paris/restaurants-et-bar/restaurants/epicure/) (9 notes)

Superb French cooking with no attitude and precission. Proper 3 Michelin Star place, innovative albeit classic and simply superb. Probably among the best lunches in Paris if not the world.

White - Sparkling
N.V. Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
90 points
By the glass at Epicure, Paris.
French aperitif style of wine, firm, bright, mineral and albeit with lots of structure also has a giving side , a welcoming side and a long finish. Solid. 90-91
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2009 Deutz Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
90 points
By the glass at Epicure, Paris.
Bright and energetic but also on the richer and evolved side, round and giving with lots of palate presence and nice finish. Great aperitif for those looking for a richer wine, 90-91
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2011 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
94 points
Maybe we should have decanted it to help it a bit but really the wine after 10 minutes or so was on full stride singing all the way. Bright lime, mineral and albeit also fruity and with a soft honey touch remained true to its Chablis firm structure and vibrant palate. Super solid and drinks amazingly now. 93-94
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1993 Hubert Lignier Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
96 points
Sourced directly from the domaine by Epicure, Paris.
Surprisingly vibrant for a 26 year old wine , the nose shows evolution and earthy ness but the palate was fresh and full of depth of flavour. Really this wine embodies great Burgundy, in the soft red fruits, in the subtle delivery of the flavour and the continuous evolution of flavour along the way. A solid 96
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2008 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
96 points
The sommelier at Epicure suggested this over Clos St Jacques and indeed ,at least this stage , this wine is just singing. A lot more evolved than we would have expected , earthy, smoky and toasty . Soft dark fruits, quite bright albeit soft dark fruits, light kiss of a spicy edge. Superb 95-96 and drinks excellently now
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos Hungary, Tokaji
92 points
Tasted blind in black Riedel glassware at Epicure, Paris.
Round, rich, bright and full of a noble rot profile, honey, apricots, vanilla. We guessed young Sauternes. Super solid 92
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red - Sweet/Dessert
2017 Alois Kracher Zweigelt Beerenauslese Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee
91 points
Tasted blind in black Riedel glassware at Epicure, Paris.
Much like a year ago that the sommelier gave us this test we failed to spot it as a red sweet wine. We struggled again. A very solid and rich wine, lots of depth here and substance but devout of a heavy side. A very good 91
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
2009 Château Tirecul La Gravière Monbazillac Cuvée Madame France, Southwest France, Dordogne, Monbazillac
90 points
Tasted blind in black Riedel glassware at Epicure, Paris.
Again we failed to pick this up for what it was and we went for a million other wines except this.
Very solid once again, firm, sweet apricots, citrus edge, caramel and a long finish. 90ish
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red - Fortified
2014 Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Macvin du Jura France, Jura, Macvin du Jura
89 points
Tasted blind in black Riedel glassware at Epicure, Paris.
We could not place this to save our life. Very specific and once one tries it should be able to spot it blind. Our first time that we try this type of wine and very interesting to see. Not our style but still a solid way to end a great lunch. 89-90
1 person found this helpful Comment

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