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Roumier Bonnes Mares vertical

67 Pall Mall London

Tasted February 13, 2020 by BenBlu with 419 views

Introduction

As a group of 8 we decided to assess Roumier Bonnes Mares in an informal setting non blind. Not having had any vintage of this wine before a great chance to try and understand the style and quality level as well as personal pleasure I think I can get from this lauded wine. There were a few other very generous addition for aperitif and bonus bottles that rounded out a thoroughly interesting and fun evening with great company and enthusiasm for all matter being wine.

Flight 1 - Various aperitifs (4 notes)

The aperitifs all showed very well. B Ente surprised with a totally dazzling vintage Puligny. Corton was terrific and my tied WOTN overall. Comtes never disappoints. And C Bouchard is always an interesting "Burgundian" Champagne.

White
2014 Benoit Ente Puligny-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
92 points
Great way to kick off a beautiful evening. Lovely village Puligny - 2014 is just such a great vintage and this was a rockstar of a village wine. 12% alcohol. Balanced, racy, nice melt and fruit. Impressive.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
94 points
Comtes is always a good idea and as mentioned many times my personal no brainer best value top champagne. Very good for a 2006. Typical Comtes. For me though the 06 continues to be a notch or two below 04 (but above 05 and probably on a par with 07). Should have a nice future for the next 20 years.
5 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2014 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Millésimé Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules France, Champagne
92 points
Quite organic, on the nose fresh must like in a winery during pressing. Visually bit copper colour but less so than other vintages. Also feels a bit racier than the usually slightly softer style Ursules.
White
2007 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
95 points
Decanted for 2 hours. The wine had a nice oily texture, very unctuous in the glass. A lot there on the nose and kept changing - meyer lemon, chalk, touch of smoke, positively fat on nose and palate. Good point of maturity but can go for 10-15 years and develop more. A treat to have this unicorn wine. (Surprising) contender of WOTN for me actually.

Flight 2 - Red flight (9 notes)

8x Bonnes Mares and 1x Cras. See conclusions for overall view. Served alongside each other non blind, small pours at a time we started with some Cras 11 then pair of BM 12& 14, followed by 11&13, then 09&08&07&00 and made sure some re pours so people did have consistently something of each wine in the glass which made it both enjoyable and educational.

Red
2011 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
93 points
Second time with this wine and it continues to impress. Cherry cola on the nose. Quite sexy and voluptuous in the context of the generally lean vintage. Dare I suggest that here compared to the 2011 Bonnes Mares I would actually prefer to drink the Cras now and I am not 100% convinced the BM will catch it.
Red
2014 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
93 points
This was interestingly drinking better and drinking well on immediate pop when I tried it to ensure it was a sound bottle. The bottle was then left open (no decant) for 2 hours. In the glass then the nose was quite engaging with lavender notes but it had shut down somewhat on the palate. I would say it was a 94 on immediate pnp and later on more like a 92. This is obviously (too) young but it should have fine potential for a 2014.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2012 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
94 points
Side by side the more floral and airy 2014 this was more structured, firm and tad more reduced with black fruit spectrum prominent. A more masculine style wine and for me the best wine out of 11-14. Should be very good in ten years with potential to add a point or two.
Red
2011 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
92 points
To me the 2011 & 13 pair was behind the pair of 2012 & 2014. Also with the 2011 we had the interesting context of a quite sexy (for the vintage) Cras 2011. I hate to say it but for me the BM was a lot less enjoyable than the Cras. I could have drunk a bottle of Cras but hardly much more than 1-2 glasses of the BM11. The Bonnes Mares was quite chalky and tight. Not green but there was no lushness or sexiness about it whatsoever. It was fairly unyielding and also a bit short.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2013 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
93 points
In similar vein as the 2011 but with more of everything but also on the evening taciturn and not offering drinking pleasure on the night. There is a lot of promise however, a muscular wine, and this wine is unfairly judged possibly by myself at this early juncture. So I wouldn't be surprised if in 5 years this could be a 95 pointer. Patience!
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
95 points
Probably WOTN tied with the Corton 07 for me on the evening. The wine has stuffing but is not hot, a lot of red fruit still a bit buried in the structure which should come out to play over the years / decades and offer up superb long-drinking pleasure. Having had the Cras 09 a few months ago I feel the Cras is in a nice spot and should/could be broached now whereas the BM needs minimum 5 years - but no "crime" to drink today either.
Red
2008 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
94 points
Decidedly pleasure giving, this was together with 00 and 07 the only vintage I would consider in its (early) actual drinking window. Soft, with alluring dark cherry caressing on the palate. A very enjoyable glass indeed.
Red
2007 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
94 points
This was one of the three vintages in its drinking window. A sexy wine (the sexiest BM in the line-up for me), lush, sweet core of macerated cherries, bit of game and earth. Felt though that with more air it got a bit less interesting.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2000 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
94 points
A wine of broad shoulders, yet still managing to retain elegance. Must have been a very structured wine in its youth that has now loosened up and was giving very good drinking pleasure at 20 years of age with brooding black fruit, a good core sweetness and tiny bit of rough dusty edges. The glass I decided to simply enjoy with my deer ragout pasta. And it went very well.

Flight 3 - Sweet treat (1 note)

Some nice 3 half bottles of Riesling Auslese. Delicious!

White - Off-dry
2010 Weingut Keller Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
A lovely sweet wine! Balanced (not too sweet, not too acidic), weightless yet intense.

Flight 4 - Nightcap (1 note)

Red
2007 Domaine A.-F. Gros Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
94 points
This came out late in the evening as generous "bonus" bottle. I very much enjoyed it. Powerful for a 2007, earthy, some herbs and tea. Not the most refined but I quite enjoyed the edges. Should probably be better with a few more years in bottle yet or could have benefited from a decant I think.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

Conclusions: Quality of Roumier Bonnes Mares is high. The style is consistent and wines are balanced and never too hot / alcoholic. It is quite a "grippy" wine, a bit chalky and dusty on the mouthfeel rather than a sexy wine. I scored these wines in a fairly narrow band of 92-95. Wines to drink today are 00, 07 and 08. 09 was my red WOTN and best Bonnes Mares in the line-up for future potential. Roumier Cras doesn't seem to be (much) behind Bonnes Mares and I may actually prefer the Cras stylistically. Corton 07 was a lovely surprise and my tied WOTN.

At allocation prices Roumier Bonnes Mares makes a lot of sense but for me it is not worth secondary market prices. It is not, in my humble opinion, up there with say Rousseau Chambertin. I felt Bonnes Mares Roumier showed less Chambolle-esque than I would have thought, it felt to me quite a bit of Morey touch. Roumier Bonnes Mares does need time to show so do keep bottles for 15-20+ years ideally.

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