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Mas de Daumas Gassac Tasting and Dinner
Restaurant De Lage Vuursche, Lage Vuursche, NL
Tasted February 9, 2020 by Xavier Auerbach with 238 views
Introduction
A vertical tasting and dinner for 32 people organised by Wijnkoperij Okhuysen, Restaurant De Lage Vuursche and me, with Samuel Guibert as the guest of honour. Sixteen vintages of the red spanning the period 1982 - 2016, half of which in grand format. All red wines were double decanted before the tasting, with the exception of the 2011 and 1985, which were single decanted before the tasting (because of the bottle size), and the 1983, which was single decanted directly before serving (because of its delicate character). The 2003, 2004 and 2005 came from the cellars of the restaurant, the 1982, 1985, 1989 and 1990 came from my cellar and the remaining vintages came from the cellars of Okhuysen, with the exception of the 1983, of which two bottles came from my cellar and the other two from Okhuysen. The Vin de Laurence was brought by Samuel Guibert.
Flight 1 - The 2010’s (3 notes)
Red
2016 Mas de Daumas Gassac
93 points
Fabulous glossy fruit on the nose, cherries and cassis, violets, fresh and energetic palate, refreshing acidity (TA 3.85 gr/l, the highest in the domaine’s history), ripe and elegant tannins covered in smooth flesh, very good persistence. Still almost completely primary, should develop extremely well.
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Red
2015 Mas de Daumas Gassac
93 points
Warmer and bigger style than the 2016, not as expressive as the 2016 but wit lots of tannic power and concentration, bold ripe fruit, hint of cedar, really excellent length.
Red
2013 Mas de Daumas Gassac
90 points
Lighter style than the 2015 and 2016 which preceded it, lovely transparency, elegant, cedary and delicately floral, hints of liquorice and earth, starting to show itself again after a closed stage, slightly drying tannins and finish.
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Flight 2 - The 2000’s (3 notes)
Red
2005 Mas de Daumas Gassac
92 points
Magnum. Very structured, a powerful and concentrated wine but not easy to assess, the product of a warm and dry year, hint of coffee, quite firm extraction, youthful, still needs time.
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Red
2004 Mas de Daumas Gassac
92 points
Magnum. Classical and well developed nose, relatively fresh style, cedar and spices, lovely freshness on the palate, energetic and fresh even after 16 years, has line and length.
Red
2003 Mas de Daumas Gassac
92 points
Magnum. The third of a very interesting trio of vintages. Well-balanced in spite of the heat, no excessive alcohol (13.3% ABV), really big but ripe tannins, no lack of freshness, leathery aromas but not dusty, displays a certain warmth but the fruit is not stewed, less extracted than the 2005, more generous than both the 2004 and 2005, good length. People enjoyed it a lot today.
Flight 3 - The 1990’s (3 notes)
Red
1994 Mas de Daumas Gassac
93 points
A very complete, fresh and typical Mas de Daumas Gassac, still quite aromatic, medium body, well managed tannins, lovely balance and elegance, spices and red meat, complete and beautifully developed, still firm tannins, playful and long finish. One of the stars of the show today.
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Red
1991 Mas de Daumas Gassac
90 points
Aromatically more developed than the 1994, still correct and fresh, but the aromas feel a bit tired even if the tannins are still present.
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Red
1990 Mas de Daumas Gassac
92 points
Magnum. A warm harvest, start and stop between 3 and 20 September. Mature and complete, harmonious and generous, beautifully melted but still firm tannins, meaty aromas, completely ready even from this grand format.
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Flight 4 - The 1980’s (3 notes)
Red
1989 Mas de Daumas Gassac
Magnum. Much more tannic than the 1990, a much more masculine wine, slightly rustic but clean, not the majesty of the 1985 or the 1982, slightly nervous, perhaps not a perfect bottle? Not rated.
Red
1985 Mas de Daumas Gassac
94 points
Mathusalem. An amazing wine, this has everything, freshness and fruit, firm but ripe tannins, cedary and meaty, cool and minerally but generous and elegant, incredibly youthful, still floral and evolving at a glacial pace in this grand format, excellent length. Stunning.
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Red
1982 Mas de Daumas Gassac
94 points
Magnum. Mature but lively appearance. Showing beautifully in its majesty, also wonderful fruit and freshness, very impressive development in bottle, cedary like a rich old claret, meat stew, seamless, warm but classical, mature but nothing off, salmiac, big but ripe tannins, complete finish, very good length. A perfect magnum.
Flight 5 - Aperitif and Dinner (9 notes)
Rosé - Sparkling
2018 Mas de Daumas Gassac Rosé Frizant
89 points
Made from 100% Cabernet-Sauvignon, cuve close. Lactic, strawberries, cherries, fresh, lively mousse, not refined but fresh and lively, a great wine for summer.
White
2018 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc
92 points
White peach, chamomile, expressive aromatics, 5.7 gr/l RS, gentle bitters, soft and rich but fresh, very floral, good weight, almost Germanic style, very good length. Bursting with energy.
White
2014 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc
92 points
Magnum. Creaminess from the Chardonnay, nuttiness from the Chenin, 7.9 gr/l RS, rounded and satiny palate, citrus freshness, lovely length. Rich but elegant.
Red
2011 Mas de Daumas Gassac
92 points
Double magnum. Ripe and wonderfully fresh, glossy fruit, powerful but elegant, energetic tannins, violets, lovely freshness, very youthful, slightly austere, very good length. Quintessential Mas de Daumas. Good future.
Red
2000 Mas de Daumas Gassac
92 points
Wonderful freshness for a twenty year old wine, very youthful, good body and power, quite strong and a bit rustic, firm and energetic, gentle cedary evolution, still has good fruit, perfect with the venison with Bordelaise sauce.
Red
1998 Mas de Daumas Gassac
92 points
First bottle had acrolein taint, second bottle fresh but a bit animalistic, lovely freshness, delicately honeyed, very typical for the estate, youthful fruit, very good persistence.
Red
1983 Mas de Daumas Gassac
91 points
Single decant directly before serving. The most delicate of all the vintages tasted today but still fresh and not fragile, the acidity is just turning a bit metallic and the aromas are borderline overripe, but the wine is combination with the refined hare dish was inspired.
Red
1985 Mas de Daumas Gassac
94 points
After the tasting in the afternoon, revisited at dinner in the evening. Even with 32 people, a Mathusalem is an ample quantity of wine...
White - Sweet/Dessert
2011 Mas de Daumas Gassac Vin de Laurence
93 points
Sercial and Muscat d’Alexandrie, 50cl bottle. The most recent vintage. Pale golden colour; wonderful nose, flowers and honey, candied roses, almonds, white port, warm spices, wood; sweet and savoury palate, good body, firm bitters, tropical fruit, orange rind; excellent depth and length on the finish. Unique.
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