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Magnums Dinner

Friend's Place, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong

Tasted December 7, 2020 by Goldstone with 120 views

Introduction

Eight of us our monthly get-together from the wine/F&B business. The magnum theme had been chosen because we had anticipated a bigger group....but it worked really well. A friend of Olivier's let us use his private 'Bat Cave', which was a super location. Several of the group organised the food.....there was a lot!

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 note)

Opened as an aperitif...but the Champagne also went really well with the cold cuts because it has some power to it.

White - Sparkling
N.V. Henri Giraud Champagne Esprit Nature France, Champagne
90 points
From magnum. Recent disgorgement. Hay gold in colour. Lively mousse. Strong beads of tiny bubbles. Fresh nose of mown hay and green grass. Palate is very petillante in the mouth, lots of Pinot. Low dosage but not austere. Elegant. Nicely resonant inside the head. Very enjoyable and more-ish. 90 easy
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Flight 2 - Three blind whites (3 notes)

Drank with a super selection of rustic French cold cuts.

White
2016 Arnaud Ente Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
90 points
Served blind in a single bottle. Very pale yellow. Nose is melted unsalted butter but very light, a particular herb like comfrey or something. Palate is light but not ripe, very saline, almost salty, salted butter, lots of minerals and round pebbles. Quite a distinctive signature. Quiet resonance on the finish. Elegant and enjoyable. I don't think this is quite what is on the Appellation label because I understand that a fair amount of better-Appellation grapes go into this maker's cuvee, which explain the non-supermarket price. 90-91
White
2016 Hubert Lamy Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
89 points
Served blind from magnum. Very light white gold colour. Nose is oak-forward, lots of minerals in the flint end of the spectrum, some malo. Palate is very flinty and immediately big in the mouth, saline, fresh, some torched lemon skins, bit hollow in the middle, almost filtered? Lean and tensile. Quite sharp on the back end. Is young. Guessing Meursault in a new generation producer? Plot is just below Batard Montrachet. I'd like to try again in 2-3 years.
White
2016 Mas Jullien Vin de Pays de l'Hérault France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault
89 points
Served blind from magnum. Medium straw gold colour but freshly jeweled. Nose is lemon boiled sweets, white clover, hints of lanolin, some lemon verbena. Palate is quite rich and very rounded, nice fresh acidity but good weight, Sauvignon/ Semillon? Young. Very slightly honeyed like white clover. Nice medium weight. Clearly a blend of several varietals. Well made. Needs food like roast turbot and a few more years in the cellar.

Flight 3 - Blind Pinot Noir (2 notes)

Drank mainly with a wonderful 6kg whole slow-roasted ham.....which was rather too much for 8 of us.

Red
1986 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
92 points
Drank blind from magnum. Very clouded old faded red velvet curtains colour. Nose is a slight but not unpleasant whiff of nail varnish remover, autumnal strawberries, damp earth, confit wild strawberries.....lovely. Palate is fresh, cutting acidity, lovely light slightly tart expression of the nose but slightly thin so I guessed a very good old Cote D'or Villages (Savigney Les Beaune? Or Gevrey Chambertin?). Slightly short on length but this was absolutely captivating. 92-93.
Red
2013 Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Cuvée Madeleine Collignon France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
89 points
Drank blind from magnum. Almost transparent, very bright-jeweled deep ruby... looks young. Nose is subdued...damp forest earth, forest fruits, all small and concentrated but not quite confit red berries, some lovely perfume in the background, almost young musk. Palate is slightly tart but fresh acidity, pomegranate. Tastes young. Modern style. Oak is still too predominant and seems like new barrels. Quite heady. Young and needs a few more years. Really good but come back in 5 years. No surprise it was revealed as an Hospices de Beaune. Actually, to hit its best en magnum, it probably needs to get almost as much bottle age as the 1986 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin we drank with it.

Flight 4 - Two more blind reds (2 notes)

Drank mainly with some super French artisanal cheeses, including several of my very favourite ones. Great selection, guys!

Red
2015 Bodegas Roda Rioja Roda I Reserva Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
88 points
Two single bottles drank blind. Almost fully opaque deep cherry red which is transparent on the tilt. Nose is fresh young oak, ripe cherry fruit. Palate is very nice fresh vanilla pod, a nice chalky dryness, lots of tannin but partially softened, some newly-tanned leather. I was guessing a Rhone in its mid-life. Pegau? 1998? Or New World.? Soft on the finish. Moderate length and resonance. I liked it more and more with increased time in the glass. Caramel with milk chocolate. Still a slight bitterness. Surprised when it was reveled as a Rioja but that explains why it tasted so young and primary.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
1999 Chateau Musar Lebanon, Bekaa Valley
93 points
Impeccable boxed magnum from the winery. Perfect cork but interestingly it had been inserted upside down!

Initial notes on opening: Fully transparent cherry red colour on opening. Initial nose of new wellington boots and high- toned kirsch. Initial palate is tart and tannic red cherries and fresh cranberries. Quite a volatile eau de vie immediate resonance and reverberance inside the head in the mouth and on the swallow... very long indeed.

Decanted for 7 hours and then served blind but knowing it was my wine. Almost transparent except for the core. Has retained its cherry red colour. Nose is very well behaved and clean and reticent, almost disappointingly so...loganberry in the background. Palate has really benefited from the long decant - it is a BAM! of classic Musar Eastern spice market, black tapenade, deep red spiced Turkish delight, good medium acidic freshness. Then it suddenly grabs you by the back of the skull on the back palate and takes you down Alice's rabbit hole. Intellectual but also hedonistic. The power is phenomenal and very long indeed. Close to silence creating but too reticent on the nose to score accordingly higher. This is my favourite vintage of younger Ch. Musar and the first time I have opened a magnum. In most people's top two wines tonight. 93-94.
4 people found this helpful Comments (1)

Flight 5 - Before and with Cigars (1 note)

This was a stellar bottle and surprisingly light.

Red - Fortified
1977 Graham Porto Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
93 points
From a pristine magnum. Perfect fill. Very bright and alive transparent light amber jewel colour. Nose is slightly cherries liqueur and fresh strawberries but reticent because it was served from a fridge. Palate is rich, rounded, very smooth, almost like an eau de vie in its lightness. Long and very reverberant on the finish.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Closing

A really great evening, in super company as always, and some really good wines.

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