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Annual gathering with Chicago winos in Chicago
Smyth and The Loyalist - Chicago IL
Tasted July 16, 2021 by dcwino with 313 views
Introduction
Due to the pandemic, we were unable to continue our tradition last year. The wines were actually shipped two years ago but we finally got to drink them. The dinner was held at the private room of Smyth restaurant once again. The tasting menu once again was incredible, imaginative, intellectual and perfectly executed. For me, the best restaurant in the states along with the EMP. The wine service was perfect once again.
Gougere with Foie Gras
Shiitake with black truffle, the only dish that didn't work for me
Oyster Rockefeller - simple but perfectly executed
Simple ingredients but absolutely incredible
With Lobster Head Butter but don't taste lobster, very Troigros.
One of the greatest dishes of my life, warm caviar. It intensifies the flavor with slightly firmer texture
Lobster, slightly undercooked a la French
Simply the best burger!
Da Buns!
Pretty and delicious
Dead Soldiers
Flight 1 - Vintage Krug (4 notes)
The 02 and 96 were slightly off.
White - Sparkling
2002 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
flawed
The 02 Krug has been excellent and very consistent but not this time. Strong oxidized apple peel, subdued fruit, cinnamon and slight lacking mineral. Shy mousse, very good concentration but flat and tired. A bit advanced, not a representative bottle.
White - Sparkling
2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
93 points
Medium expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, cinnamon apple, lemon crud, marzipan and limestone. Good concentration but not as concentrated as the 02, ripe yellow fruit, fine medium abundant mousse, perfect amount of acidity and medium mineral and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with cinnamon at the end. Drinking nicely.
White - Sparkling
1998 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
94 points
Fully mature delicious nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, tarte tatin, green apple candy, crème brulee, brioche and sweet spices. Medium concentration, nicely layered ripe yellow fruit, fine generous mousse, perfect amount of acidity, and a seamless long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with brioche and caramel at the end. For me, best balance Krug of the flight.
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White - Sparkling
1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
93 points
This seems a bit more advanced than usual. Strong oxidized apple, cinnamon, smoke, honey, sweet spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, ripe yellow fruit, shy mousse which gives a flat impression, bright acidity, strong mineral, and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with caramel at the end. Although not a good bottle, still quite enjoyable.
Flight 2 - Raveneau Valmur (4 notes)
I liked them equally.
White
2006 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
95 points
Perfectly mature nose displaying cool white fruit, pear, apple, fresh lemon, beeswax, honeysuckle, saline and crushed rock. Excellent concentration, very finely layered cool white fruit, very precise and focused, medium acidity, strong mineral, and a seamless long white fruit driven finish with limestone and honeysuckle at the end. The fruit is not obvious and opulent which makes it a classic Chablis but not a textbook Raveneau. The 06 whites were very fat and flat upon release. This has developed beautifully.
White
2009 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
95 points
Opulent nose displaying very ripe yellow citrus fruit, lemon curd, a hint of apple, a hint of mint, jalapeno, smoke, mint, saline, cool mountain stream, honeysuckle, beeswax and limestone. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated yellow fruit, rich and opulent but also showing very good balance, good acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of mint and honeysuckle at the end. This is the only wine that Al and I seem to disagree. I love the opulent in this wine.
White
2011 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
95 points
Classic Chablis nose with a hint of delicious Raveneauness, delicate cool white fruit, lemon, granny smith, honeysuckle, sea breeze, a hint of pyrazine which is not bothersome, cool mountain stream and wet stone. Excellent concentration, very finely layers generous cool white fruit, excellent focus and precision, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long cool white fruit driven finish with smoke and honeysuckle at the end. This is drinking beautifully.
White
2013 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
95 points
Expressive almost exotic nose displaying tropical yellow fruit, guava, pineapple, lemon oil, honey, a hint of mint, beeswax and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of sweet ripe yellow fruit, rich and opulent yet showing good balance and precision, bright acidity, strong mineral, and a long exotic tropical fruit driven finish with beeswax and honey at the end. This is the most primary and ripest wine of the flight. A bit kinky almost. According to Al, the wine gives the richness due to botrytis in the 13 vintage. Really enjoyable.
Flight 3 - Aubert (4 notes)
For me the best domestic Chardonnay. Perhaps too big and a bit hot for some.
White
2014 Aubert Chardonnay Lauren Estate Vineyard
93 points
A bit cloudy as usual. Medium expressive nose displaying very ripe yellow fruit, lemon curd, pineapple, sweet spices, a hint of flint, crème brulee, noticeable oak/vanilla, sweet spices and limestone. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated yellow fruit, rich and opulent, bright acidity, medium mineral, and a long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with crème brulle and oak at the end. This shows the most oak. This seems to gain weight and developed more yellow fruit. Although enjoyable, my least favorite of the flight.
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White
2014 Aubert Chardonnay Sugar Shack
94 points
Medium expressive nose displaying ripe white and yellow fruit, lychee, lemon curd, starfruit, honey, sweet spices and mineral. Good concentration, nicely layered concentration ripe white fruit, rich yet fluid, medium acidity and mineral, and a long ripe white fruit driven finish with lychee at the end. This shows less oak and better overall balance compare to Lauren.
White
2014 Aubert Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard
94 points
Expressive nose displaying very ripe yellow fruit, peach, white peach, lemon curd, cracker jack, cream soda, a hint of flint, sweet spices and limestone. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated yellow fruit, rich and creamy, medium acidity, good mineral expression and a long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with butter popcorn at the end. Drinking beautifully.
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Comments (1)
White
2014 Aubert Chardonnay Eastside Vineyard
95 points
Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe yellow and white fruit, lemon curd, lemon, apple, pineapple, a hint of flint, sweet spices and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, finely layered yellow and white fruit, good precision and detail, bright acidity and strong limestone mineral and a seamless long white and yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of flint at the end. The is the best balance Aubert of the flight. It is starting to show a bit more yellow fruit. I rated it 98pts three years ago, the highest rated domestic Chardonnay for me.
Flight 4 - Gros Richebourg (5 notes)
The 83 was truly memorable. I really like the younger Richebourgs as well, especially the 10.
Red
1983 Domaine Jean Gros Richebourg
98 points
Absolutely gorgeous perfectly mature Burgundy nose displaying cooked red fruit, raspberry jelly, cherry liqueur, strong sous bois, grilled cep, tapenade, caramel, cedar, stem and earth. There is only a slight hint of the 83 rot. Perfectly integrated beautiful balance, very finely layered subtle red fruit, rich yet fluid and airy, perfect amount of acidity and earthy mineral and a seamless long tertiary flavor driven earthy finish. The fruit is mostly tertiary. Incredibly enjoyable.
Red
1998 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg
94 points
Expressive youthful nose displaying bright red fruit, strawberry, raspberry, white flowers, cedar, raw shiitake, spicy spices and earth. Very good concentration, very finely layered bright red fruit, very focused and slightly lean, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, still noticeable fine tannins, and a long bright red fruit driven finish with raw shiitake at the end. This is a very polished slightly lean and structured Richeboug, an iron fist in the velvet glove.
Red
2008 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg
95 points
I love the exotic expression of the 08 Vosne wines. Expressive nose displaying ripe red and black fruit, strawberry jam, blackberry, a hint of green, cannabis, incense, sap, licorice, dark spices and earth. Very good concentration, nicely layered ripe red and black fruit, rich yet good precision and detail, bright acidity and earthy mineral and a long ripe red and black fruit driven finish with a hint of cannabis and sap at the end. The cannabis expression is similar to the 08 DRCs but not as strong. I think this will show beautifully in ten years when sous bois emerges.
Red
2009 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg
95 points
Youthful expressive nose displaying primary and coiled rich black fruit, blackberry jam, blackberry liqueur, licorice, caramel, dark spices and limestone. Exceptional concentration, incredibly concentrated packed black fruit, rich, deeply toned and concentrated, medium acidity and mineral, and a long ripe black fruit driven finish. This is the biggest wine of the flight. It may need a couple more decades to reach the peak. It is not as enjoyable as the other wines, especially compare to the 10.
Red
2010 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg
97 points
Youthful hedonistic nose displaying perfectly ripe rich red fruit with a hint of black, raspberry jelly, a hint of black cherry, rose, sap, sweet spices and earth. Exceptional balance and beautifully detailed, very finely layered perfectly ripe red and black fruit, incredibly rich yet weightless, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long pure red and black fruit driven finish with a hint of sap and rose at the end. This is already very floral and delicious yet can easily improve for a couple more decades. My favorite of the mini vertical.
Flight 5 - Napa Cult (3 notes)
It is challenging to appreciate these. I though the Scarecrow and Colgin were similar, classic blue and black fruits.
Red
2007 Kapcsándy Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon (Grand Vin) State Lane Vineyard
94 points
Expressive nose displaying very ripe sweet red fruit, cherry liqueur, cherry pie, black cherry, licorice, caramel, strong oak/vanilla, milk chocolate and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of ripe red fruit, rich and opulent yet but also silky and polished, good acidity and mineral, and a long concerted sweet red fruit driven finish with noticeable oak at the end. The ripe red fruit reminded me of Maybach Materium. I prefer black or blue fruit with a hint of cassis in my Napa cabs.
Red
2007 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon
97 points
Explosive nose displaying classic Napa cult cab nose, crème de cassis, blackberry jam, Cabernet mineral dust, cedar, vanilla/oak, rose, lead pencil, dark spices and crushed rocks. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of unbelievably concentrated black and blue fruit, unctuous and rich, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and a long concerted black and blue fruit driven mineral finish with a hint of caramel at the end. This is moving at a glacial speed. This is a quintessential Napa Cult cab from the ear where bigger was better. Not sure how this will evolve.
Red
2007 Colgin IX Estate
96 points
Expressive nose displaying sweet concentrated black fruit with a hint of red, crème de cassis, blueberry jam, plum, cappuccino, strong lead pencil, strong lead pencil, cedar, vanilla/oak and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of opulent black fruit, rich yet silky and polished, medium acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and a long black fruit driven finish. Although youthful, it is drinking beautifully. It is less structured than the Scarecrow. Another classic Cult cab.
Flight 6 - SQN (4 notes)
I really loved SQN syrahs in the mid 90s.
Red
2007 Sine Qua Non Syrah Dangerous Birds
96 points
Expressive nose displaying incredibly concentrated black fruit, blackberry jam dominates, also dark spices, dark caramel and crushed rocks. Big and chewy, deeply toned and sweet. There is noticeable heat that clips the finish. This is the biggest and most impressive wine of the flight. Not sure if I can have more than a glass.
Red
2008 Sine Qua Non Syrah The Duel
95 points
Another big scale wine displaying concentrated rich black fruit, blackberry jam, sour cherry, dark caramel, milk chocolate, licorice, strong oak and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated black fruit, opulent, round, creamy and warm, good acidity and mineral, and a long ripe black fruit driven finish. I am not sure how this will develop. Another impressively concentrated wine. There is a hint of heat at the end.
Red
2009 Sine Qua Non Syrah This is Not An Exit Eleven Confessions Vineyard
94 points
Expressive nose displaying very ripe black fruit, blackberry jam, fruitcake, dark caramel, sweet spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, packed concentrated black fruit, rich and chewy, good acidity and mineral, and a long ripe black fruit driven finish. There is a hint of heat at the end.
Red
2010 Sine Qua Non Syrah Stockholm Syndrome Eleven Confessions Vineyard
95 points
Expressive nose displaying rich ripe black fruit, blackberry jam, black cherry, ink, licorice, mocha, lavender, dark spices and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, good acidity and mineral, and a long ripe black fruit driven finish with a hint of ink at the end. There is a bit of heat at the end. Another big scale SQN.
Flight 7 - Stickty (3 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1987 Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepulciano
92 points
A lot of dry fruit, nutty, noticeable heat, a bit straightforward.
Red - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepulciano Occhio di Pernice
95 points
Exceptional concentration and richness yet not heavy. Also good complexity and balance. Reminds me a top Recioto a bit.
Red - Fortified
1937 Quinta do Noval Porto Colheita
94 points
Still showing generous dry fruit, dry fig, dry peach, fruit cake, a lot of toasted almond, caramel and mineral. It is slightly angular with moutpuckering acidity and a bit of heat. It is similar to a Madeira from the same vintage.
Closing
It was another memorable evening with our Chicago friends.