A touch past peak in terms of its advancement, but just. At first the mild oxidative notes dominated, but with air some robust fruit emerged, along with just enough acid to balance things out very nicely. Notes of bruised apple, iodine and oyster shells. Richer than I expected. Shut down after a few hours. Drink up if you have any.

Just a small taste from a bottle opened the night before. Like some other encounters with this producer, I found the wine somewhat disjointed, all texture and stem-inclusion characteristics. Served blind, I took it for a younger Burg somewhat on the rustic side, maybe Nuit St. Georges. Everyone tells me these need time, but color me a skeptic.

Served blind, after a lengthy (and much needed) decant. Dense, concentrated and intense. Admittedly I struggled to place this in Bordeaux. Some high-toned elements, pyrazine, licorice and dark berry took me to Italy. When revealed, it made sense, though I’ve had this twice before and nonetheless failed to recognize it. Not necessarily what I look for in Bordeaux, but for what it is, it works splendidly. Never clumsy. Good length too. Built for the ages.

My first encounter. Served blind, I failed to place it altogether. A glycerined texture was a dead give away for the dominant alcohol here. I noted mocha and brambly berries, not CDP hallmarks. Eventually I could recognize the Grenache, but to be honest it is a Grenache expression that lacks typicity, so dense and reductive I wanted a spoon, and could only manage to down a glass. Think Sine Qua Non is warmer years. Maybe with more air or bottle age it will regain some of the nimbleness and nuance others have noted, but not on this night.

From a 375, the first of six I’ve dared to test, and indeed it is too soon, not that anyone complained. Such complex aromatics I hardly needed a sip. Yellow and white fruit, marzipan, some white tea, citrus, coconut cream and a myriad of spices, for starters. Tremendous depth and cut, with a multi-minute finish. Patience required!