dark garnet with a cloudy core and rusty edge. this wine looked every bit of its twenty years.
initially it smelled like a musty library book… damp mushrooms gave way to clove and some dark cherry. when revisiting the wine nearly two hours later, red and black currants and hints of sage came forth as well.
in mouth it was initially all tertiary flavours brightened by the acidity, the earthy mushroom, truffle and spice notes carrying thru a long finish that hinted of red berries. upon revisit it had bloomed beautifully with red fruit compote notes lending a sweet edge to autumnal earthiness of the wine.

i don’t see this getting better or lasting significantly longer… but what a wonderful expression it is at the moment.

[vintage decimated by frost at the outset and complicated by cold and windy spells during the growing season. a lot of hand-picking and sorting was needed]

dark garnet with some rust edges. the red fruit is still bright on the nose, as is the sous-bois; some floral and dark cherry notes come into the mix. surprisingly bright and fruity on the entry, the vein of acidity carries the flavours to the mid palate where their intensity fades as the spice notes gain some prominence. tannins are fully integrated and persistence is moderate.

[mixed season that started cool then warmed up favourably. the peak growing period was punctuated by extremes of rain, sun and wind. some sorting for botrytis was needed]

very dark ruby and opaque, incredibly perfumed nose of rose petals and red berries with some whiffs of earth and funk. still a bit tannic, the fruit has savoury feel that compliments the tertiary mushroom notes. mellow acidity and spicy notes that emerge on the moderately long finish.

[cool start to the season with poor flowering. some hot and dry weather in the middle of the growing season but relieved by rain. low yields, small bunches and small berries]

dark ruby turning garnet at the edges. earthy, peppery and slightly gamey aromas mingle with damask rose
petals as whiffs of rhubarb, pomegranate, raspberry and cherry dance around the nose. fresh and youthful on the entry, the fruit layers peel back against a mineral vein, accented by spice, truffle, and touches of savoury herb notes. resolved tannins, remarkable depth and grand cru-like finish.

very elegant and balanced wine likely at its peak and with lots of life ahead. i wish i had a bottle!
25% new oak for twelve months

[something of a favourable season with a normal-sized crop. generally warm days and cool nights made for vibrant, pure fruit]

medium ruby colour. the nose starts brightly with roses and raspberry bubblegum, then darkens with baking spices and forest floor. a fresh acidic vein runs thru the palate as the fruit grows in intensity, the spice notes and mineral accents rise and fade, and a mix of sweet and savoury flavours play thru the long finish.

balanced and integrated and drinking very well at the moment.
10% whole cluster, 25% new oak for twelve months

[good start to the season with a heat spike moderated by some rains. overall a warmer and riper season than average]

medium ruby colour. dark cherry, currant, anise, bramble and earth on the nose. very expressive in the mouth, the entry is quite juicy and fruity. mid palate the fruit notes take on lovely savoury bend, accented by the spice notes. fine-grained integrated tannins and a balancing acidity make this an enjoyable wine at the moment. good concentration and persistence.

[slow-starting season with late flowering and cool weather early on. conditions were then favourable with warm days and cool nights for later than normal harvest]

bright ruby in the glass. generous red and dark fruit in the nose along with an exotic mix of spices, earthy bramble, and subtle floral notes. a notable spicy vein runs thru the palate and the fruit flavours. good acidity and depth mid-palate. soft tannins and moderate length.

drinking very nicely, even it doesn’t seem as fully developed as its peers.

[abundant bud set required crop thinning early on. hot days and very cool nights made for larger diurnal swing and good tannin ripeness]

medium ruby colour. the nose starts a bit earthy, with herbal and crushed flower aromas, and is gradually augmented by blood orange, red and dark cherry, and spice whiffs. silky and elegant in the mouth, delightful layers of dark fruit unfurl accented by spices at turn savoury, at turn sweet. tea and mineral notes add depth while a lovely acidic frame keeps everything in tension. very good persistence.

this is likely at peak and should provide quite a few years of drinking pleasure as secondary flavours continue to develop.
30% whole cluster, 35% new oak for eleven months

[a somewhat warmer year, but with a cool middle period that slowed ripening. cool but dry weather returned toward nearing harvest time, lengthening the hang time]

dark ruby in the glass, it has a very complex nose with red and blue fruit interwoven with roses and violets; bottom notes of leather and damp earth lace the spice and herbal aromas. round, supple and extremely layered in the mouth, there is a remarkable purity to the fruit flavours as the complexities develop mid-palate. very good acidity and polished tannins. remarkable grand cru-like persistence.

delightful as it is, i think it can still improve; it’s still somewhat primary with a structure that has not yet fully integrated. it’s sure to go for another decade easily.
25% whole cluster, 35% new oak for eleven months

[early bud break, but a short growing season did not materialise thanks to some cool weather that allowed good hang time and slower ripening]

dark ruby colour. dark fruit dominates the generally sweet nose with vanilla and rose notes and just subtle earthy whiffs. in the mouth it is currently rather open-knit: dark and red fruits parade across the palate, tangy and bitter notes appear and fade, as do spice and herbal accents. the tannins are grippy but smooth, and the acidity is subtle but persistent. very good length.

at nearly eight years, it seems to me that this wine has not yet quite fully come together… i expect it to improve with even a bit more age.
40% whole cluster, 35% new oak for eleven months

[low-yielding season with smaller berry size. the driest growing season in about two decades affected by high winds. late season rains gave the vines a boost of energy]

medium ruby in the glass. once the funk blows off, red fruit, floral, herbal, spice and earthy notes dance beautifully in the nose. very tight in the mouth at the moment, the acidic core and tannic structure dominate the palate. the fruit concentration is very good in the mid palate and at the moment only accented by spice notes. good balance and very good length.

this will need a good handful of years to integrate, but all the elements are in place and in balance for the wine to bloom and drink for a long time.

13.5% AbV; 35% whole clusters; eleven months in French oak (35% new)

medium ruby and somewhat translucent in the glass. an even more complex nose with rich earthy notes anchoring the ethereal floral wafts and the fresh red fruits. broody and intense in the mouth, it will clearly need quite some time to properly integrate. hints of truffle and mushroom give the wine a decidedly autumnal bend; pomegranate and blood orange notes give some brightness. long persistence.

13% AbV; ~40% whole cluster; eleven months in French oak (25% new)