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Condrieus and Côte-Rôties of North London
Must & Lees
Tasted September 28, 2023 by NickA with 110 views
Introduction
Straightforward theme - let's try a cross-section from these two complementary appellations.
Flight 1 - Cuilleron whites (2 notes)
White
2022 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Viognier Les Vignes d'à Côté
90 points
Brought as an aperitif/quality control, and happily exceeded expectations - a very nice wine in its own right. Recognisably Viognier, with its slightly heady tropical-fruited nose, and thick, fruity, floral quality on the palate. The warm finish also seemed fairly textbook, but with air the wine's nuances became apparent: some grassiness on the nose and a pleasant kick of lime zest on the finish. Tasty stuff.
White
2021 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets
92 points
An interesting comparison with the '22 Vignes, this being 2.5x the price and from a more favourable vintage (for whites), and that largely being borne out when we tried them. Stony and more restrained than the younger wine, with the fruit having more of a preserved lemon than a tropical character. Perhaps more Condrieu typicity on the palate, with its viscous texture, honeysuckle and lychee notes, and underlying minerality. Superb creamy finish, which reminded me of tarte au citron (not something I've used in a tasting note before). Excellent stuff, and joint white wine of the night.
Flight 2 - 2020 Condrieu (2 notes)
White
2020 François Merlin Condrieu Les Terroirs
89 points
Rounder and flabbier on the generically aromatic nose than the two Cuilleron wines. More interesting on the palate, which was stony and bitter on the attack, then softer through the midpalate, yet finished with a grippy, phenolic, tropical quality. Attractively reminiscent of lemon ginger tea. I'd finish a glass of this, but I certainly wouldn't buy it - it's £60! Can't see how this scored 96 in a Decanter panel tasting.
White
2020 Domaine Pichon Condrieu
85 points
Goodness, this really wasn't nice. Paler than the other wines we'd had. Flat, rubbery nose. A bit odd on the palate - pear drops? Fruit Salad lollies? Not much character, but what there was I didn't like.
Flight 3 - Mature Condrieu (2 notes)
White
2018 Domaine Georges Vernay Condrieu Les Chaillées de l'Enfer
93 points
Has really evolved since my first bottle in June 2021, that experience being almost too intensely bitter and phenolic and this one almost too gentle and oxidative. Apple and creme anglaise on the nose, and likewise soft and creamy on the palate, with notes of honey yoghurt and almond paste. With time in the glass, some apricot. Rolled off beautifully on the (welcomingly) spicy finish. This was a pretty unique bottle, and divided the table, but still ended up being voted joint white wine of the night.
White
2016 Rene Rostaing Condrieu La Bonnette
92 points
Some green apple and an interesting scent of exotic candles - jasmine, maybe? Soft, viscous, smooth and seductive, with a lovely finish. Plenty of life left here. Voted the group's third favourite white.
Flight 4 - 2019 Côte-Rôtie (2 notes)
Red
2019 Pierre Gaillard Côte-Rôtie Rose Pourpre
92 points
Youthful, almost raw nose, with a floral edge; clearly a lot there. Surprisingly, then, almost too soft on the palate, with tannins so supple as to almost be faded into the background, good weight of purple fruit and a lovely, juicy green finish. I liked this, but did not expect it to be a (posh) vin de soif! Looking at the reviews, I see this is 100% destemmed and 100% new barrique, which may well explain things (although the oak's influence is more textural than aromatic).
Red
2019 Domaine Faury Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Reviniscence
92 points
Excellent nose here, with gorgeous hedgerow fruit, charcoal and a touch of dusky florality. Really fruit-forward on the palate too, which was spicy, grippy, and almost aggressively pure, and also showed some attractive violet and liquorice character. Soft, sandy tannins allowed the wine to be enjoyed despite its young age. Haven't even heard of this producer, but I was impressed. 8% Viognier, 65% whole bunch, natural yeasts, 18 months in demi-muids and bottled unfiltered - no surprise it made quite the contrast to the Gaillard.
Flight 5 - Older Côte-Rôtie (2 notes)
Red
2016 Domaine Pichat Côte-Rôtie Champon's
89 points
Meaty and a bit reduced on the nose, then increasingly floral. Concentrated, bitter dark fruit on the palate, and relatively subtle tannin. Nothing to complain about, save for anonymity.
Red
2014 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Reserve
flawed
Sadly flawed, with a really interesting presentation of TCA - smelt of ozone and bladderwrack, like standing on a quayside in NW Scotland, before the wet cardboard came through. A shame, as this was apparently excellent in the first couple of minutes after it was poured.
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Comment
Flight 6 - Côte-Rôtie entering maturity (3 notes)
Red
2012 Pierre Gaillard Côte-Rôtie
93 points
Bought as part of a mixed case from auction, and very happy there's another bottle (that I'll probably now drink in the next couple of years) as this was delicious. Seamless, sensual, red-fruited nose, and then a beautiful airy experience on the palate, with its waves of lush fruit. Gorgeously silky, and yet also dry and sophisticated. Lovely.
Red
2011 Mathilde et Yves Gangloff Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine
94 points
First time trying this producer, and I hope it won't be the last (although I see this particular wine now costs well over £200/bottle...). First impression: meaty! More interest on the nose, like leather and chocolate mint; obviously a lot more tertiary than the other reds we'd had, and in a lovely place. So tempting on the palate too, which was wonderfully silky and mature, and very long. Super, and voted the group's red wine of the night.
Red
2011 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
91 points
Spiky, smoky nose that came across raw and sauvage, despite its age - and in contrast to the other wines in the flight. Grippy and bitter on the palate, with some menthol and even Marmite; that seems apposite, as although some loved this, I just don't seem able to 'get' Rostaing.
Flight 7 - Peak drinking Côte-Rôtie (3 notes)
Red
2007 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie
92 points
An attractive nose, with an intriguing combination of bright fruit and ash. Dry and austere on the palate, lots of grippy red fruit. I liked this, and suspect it's at peak, but wanted a bit more substance. The group liked it even more, and voted it #2 red tonight - ahead of the Jamet from the same vintage!
Red
2007 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie
93 points
Served fully blind. Who knows if that's why, but although a very good wine it didn't wow like a bottle from the same vintage did a couple of years ago. Lots of olive brine and other savoury notes on nicely evolved, smoothly integrated nose. Both red and dark fruit on the palate, which had a sleek texture, some savoury elements and good length. The group voted this the #3 red tonight.
Red
2009 Bernard Burgaud Côte-Rôtie
91 points
Gently smoky nose. Black olive on the palate, along with fruit that's noticeable riper and richer than that of the two 2007s in the same flight. This wine also lacked the bright acidic cut of the 2007s, and although attractive in its own right seemed subdued by comparison.
Flight 8 - Fully mature Côte-Rôtie (2 notes)
Red
1998 Domaine de Vallouit Côte-Rôtie Les Roziers
93 points
Really gorgeous graphite and mineral-toned nose. More complex on the palate, though still very attractive, with soft and sweet dark fruit, salty black olive, and an austere, edgy quality stemming from the tart acidity. One of my favourites tonight, although less popular with the group at large.
Red
1999 Patrick & Christophe Bonnefond Côte-Rôtie Les Rochains
91 points
Much friendlier than its flight-mate, immediately presenting a soft, ripe and mature character, as well as a savoury, meaty side. Slightly candied towards the finish, with some soft cocoa. Good wine, but I suspect slightly past peak.
Closing
As expected, the Condrieu divided the room, with some (including me) liking most of them and others still not finding anything to like in Viognier.
Côte-Rôtie is a more dependable category for wine geeks, and sure enough the wines ranged from good to excellent, although even the 'mystery wine' (which turned out to be Jamet) didn't completely wow me. Very glad to have tried Gaillard and Gangloff at last, and wasn't disappointed.