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Barolo and Truffle dinner

Flat 9

Tasted November 19, 2023 by NickA with 69 views

Introduction

The first anniversary of the Flat 9 supper club, and doing a Barolo/truffle theme seemed obvious. As it turned out, the dishes were strongly Japanese influenced, which made for some successful and particularly interesting pairings.

Flight 1 - Peanut and black truffle gomadofu, Truffled Fassona sushi (3 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Champagne Gaspard Brochet Champagne 333.c France, Champagne
93 points
Very pale orange, like a ramato Pinot Grigio. Charming and harmonious despite its youth (is a blend of 17/18/19) and lack of dosage. Ripe, attractive yellow fruit, relatively concentrated and full-bodied, yet ever so drinkable. Has the stuffing to make this ageable, sure, but it's also very approachable now.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
N.V. Barone Pizzini Franciacorta "Animante" Brut Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG
91 points
First time with this, and enjoyed it a lot. Fresh, well-balanced, insistent acidity and crisp, mineral fruit - an excellent aperitif.
White - Sparkling
2017 Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Zero Riserva Pas Dosé Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Alta Langa
87 points
I didn't particularly enjoy this - overly brisk and citric, a little hollow and austere, hard to finish a glass really. Perhaps some would appreciate a wine this lean, but I didn't.

Flight 2 - Simmered kabocha, sweet potato, chestnut broth (2 notes)

Red
2018 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
A gorgeous wine, in the style of the vintage, silkily medium-bodied and very fragrant: no shortage of red fruit or rose here! Nicely focused, too. A lovely first red. No need to wait on these.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
This was delicious; just as red-fruited as the Ratti, but of sturdier build and with more tar and some greenish and spicy Verduno character to complement the sweeter, more floral notes. Pleasingly ready despite no decant, but still a grown-up, 'proper' Barolo.

Flight 3 - Onsen egg, wagyu beef, mushrooms, Alba white truffle (2 notes)

Red
2008 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
94 points
In a really good place, with no hard corners and the wood almost entirely absorbed by the fruit, leaving only some vestigial spice (which went superbly with the food). Cool, poised and dark-toned, with vibrant acidity and that je ne sais quoi that really delicious wine often has. Everyone seemed to enjoy this a lot.
Red
2016 E. Molino Barolo Riserva del Fico Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
Interesting wine: relatively full-bodied, good structure and definition, but so fruit-forward that it - a 2016 riserva! - could happily be approached already. Hedonistic without being unserious, and really fun to drink.

Flight 4 - Truffled soba, tonkatsu, porcini (2 notes)

Red
2017 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cerretta Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
Delicious wine, although no way should it cost 2-4x as much as tonight's other Barolos. Rather rich and sunny in feel, and still in very much a primary phase, although also balanced and energetic. ACYSO summed up my feelings on this well below.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2019 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
87 points
Tonight's only disappointing red, rather thin and lacking a finish. Either shut down or suffering from (extremely mild) TCA contamination. As it was served by our knowledgeable host, I'll score it rather than marked as flawed.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 5 - Japanese style Mont Blanc tart (1 note)

Red
2018 Parusso Barolo Perarmando Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
91 points
Wow - what an interesting wine! The modernist elevage has created a Barolo with tropical fruit and floral aromas and flavours, and accordingly this playfully perfumed, minty, mango-infused wine was served with dessert - and it worked beautifully. I wouldn't buy this wine, but I certainly enjoyed trying it.

Closing

What a lovely evening!

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