Important Update From the Founder
Read message >
1989 Bordeaux Horizontal - London
Piccolino, Exchange Square
Tasted February 22, 2024 by Vinumming & Ahhing with 88 views
Introduction
First of 2024 at Piccolino and first look at 1989 for a few years. Overall there is lots of life left in the grander wines. Others still retain interest.
Flight 1 - Fizz (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2008 Alfred Gratien Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
91 points
A very pleasant Champagne to kick things off, really opens out with some time in the glass. Initially there are hints of ginger and as one of my table mates remarks some breadiness in the baguette spectrum. Some hints of quinine too. Palate has lovely breadth and just the right sweetness / bitterness contrast. With some air a couple of ppm of papaya emerge.
Flight 2 - Mixed Reds (2 notes)
Red
1989 Château Chasse-Spleen
90 points
One of two sourced at auction about 15 years ago. Very similar to one consumed around then. Charming nose with plenty of tobacco, some cedar and a little marron glacé sweetness. With air there's some beef pho to the nose as well. Palate is drying a little but there's still lots to like here with beautifully resolved tannins and lovely structure.
Red
1989 Château Gloria
89 points
Reticent on pouring but with some air there are some lovely red fruits to the nose with a few hints of gazpacho. Palate has a green / savoury character. Perhaps a little short if being critical. With air there are some suggestions of cashew brittle on the nose.
Flight 3 - Right Bank and Margaux (2 notes)
Red
1989 Château Canon
89 points
If served blind I might have placed this on the left bank, there is a pleasant meaty character, some smoky soil tones and some rose like florality. Something in the aniseed spectrum too. Some around the table who've had this previously thought other bottles might have been in better shape.
Red
1989 Château Malescot St. Exupéry
88 points
Not a wine I've had before so no real comparators. There is a real perfume counter character to the nose and some umami notes that remind me of a posh onion marmalade. Palate is savoury and quite correct if compact.
Flight 4 - St Julien (3 notes)
Red
1989 Château Gruaud Larose
flawed
This bottle is not right, there's something very lactic about it. It had an iffy cork but not certain the problem is TCA.
1 person found this helpful
Comment
Red
1989 Château Léoville Barton
94 points
Inky blue fruits here. Cool and savoury. Palate classical Barton with lots of cedar and classy plum fruits. Palate has a lovely spiciness. Tannins are resolved. With air a subtle star anise character emerges. Very classy.
Red
1989 Château Léoville Las Cases
95 points
Very LLC, so perfectly put together; graphite, oodles of cassis, layers of sandalwood, hints of Oolong tea. Palate is outstanding; cool fruits, filigree tannins, subtly peppery. So long. Love it. My second favourite and the table's third favourite wine of the night
2 people found this helpful
Comment
Flight 5 - Pauillac 1 (2 notes)
Red
1989 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
92 points
Bright red fruits here on the nose, some hints of lingonberry and a little mintiness. Palate is long and spicy with the tannins nicely melted away. With air it rounds out nicely. Good stuff
Red
1989 Château Mouton Rothschild
96 points
Very luxe. Nose has a mushroom duxelles umami character with an exotic star anise character. Palate is so rich and long with cassis and subtle Christmas spices. With time in the glass there is a subtle rhubarb coulis character to the nose. Mine and the table's wine of the night.
Flight 6 - Pauillac 2 (2 notes)
Red
1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron
95 points
Very profound wine here. Nose is rich, fruit cakey and long. There is real controlled power here. Palate has brooding, dark fruits with a suggestions of high quality roasting juices. Savoury and very more-ish. With air some hints of sweetness on the nose. My third favourite and the table's second favourite wine of the night.
1 person found this helpful
Comment
Red
1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
93 points
More red fruited than the Baron this is served with. There's a twist of grapefruit juice which complements the ensemble. Palate is very well balanced and together. Everything in the right place if softly spoken. After 30 mins in the glass there is the faintest suggestion of pine resin. A lovely pair which to a degree divide opinions around the table; I slightly prefer the Baron on tonight's showing.
Flight 7 - Stickies (2 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Château Coutet Barsac
91 points
A bit tight opening. With air some rich Seville oranges, some banana fritter and hints of candyfloss. Lovely texture and length. Has held up well over time although this is my last bottle.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2016 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos
92 points
Lovely treat to end the evening. Very intense wine. Concentrated orange and tart gooseberry coulis with something a little petrol like on the nose. Such bracing acidity that you salivate. Yum
Closing
Good to catch up with the gang. Steak was perfectly executed.