1990 and older CdP Redux
Ed Murray's
Tasted October 22, 2005 by Not Levine with 976 views
Introduction
After ribbing me about this endlessly for months, Ed was kind enough to put together this tasting since I missed the last one of this theme here in Seattle. In attendance were the hosts, Ed and Joane; Chuck Miller, Scott Gruner and his poor pregnant wife who couldn't drink this lovely nectar, Bob and Chirstina Watt, and Tracey and Anita (please forgive me if I her name wrong) Lemke. And what a wonderful job Ed did - we started with a whole mess of cheeses and a couple of Champagnes - 1996 Dom (great as always), and 1985 Rene Collard (100% Pinot Meunier and so rich - excellent).
Flight 1 (2 notes)
An appetizer of seared fois gras on a brioche French toast with a Sauternes reduction was sublime, and paired with two different Sauternes.
Flight 2 (9 notes)
Then, with super osso bucco, mushroom risotto, and green beans, we moved onto the main event. Two young ones were thrown in for contrast. Glad we did that - I've not had the 98 Cailloux before.
Red
1989 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The nose was great with sweet soy and a hint of barnyard. On the palate, cool, round, plenty of forest floor/earthy characteristics. Drying tannins.
Red
1989 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
I really wanted to love this one, but I think it was still kind of closed down. Some bitterness on the finish, and a whole boatload of tannins accompany the Asian spice nose. definitely need to try another one of these in a few years.
Red
1989 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This was lovely. Sweet corn (going with my breakfast cereal theme, this would be Capt. Crunch) on nose, this was translucent purple with some bricking at the edges. Pretty much resolved, this was cool and sweet with some iodine, garrigue, and kirsh. I don't think it will get any better, but I think it will last a long time.
Red
1989 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
From magnum. This is the quintessential CdP, and the reason to buy and cellar great wine. Dark, concentrated, full of complexity, there was raspberry, kirsch, herbs, all wrapped in a wonderfully balanced wine with a long, sweet finish. This is the best CdP I've had. No rush to drink this one - it should last another 15 years easy, but it's drinking super right now.
Red
1990 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuvée du Papet
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This wine will last forever. If someone had told me it was a 2001, I'd have believed it. Dark, brooding, tannic, the nose was the most complex of the evening with beef blood, iodine, currents. Palate-wise, meaty and tannic with some fruit - while it's a very good wine right now, I think it will be a blockbuster in another 10 years.
Red
1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Yep, it's true. Beaucastel is horsey. I'm having trouble reading my notes, but this was bretty and sauvage, but still retained plenty of sweetness and power. Great wine, but will not last as long as the Mont Olivet Papet.
Red
1990 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This was just a touch behind the Beau and the Papet, and it was very different sylistically. This one boasted a lot of pepper both on the nose and palate, and had other spices (herbs de Provence) singing through it. Still has tannins to resolve, no need to hurry on this one.
Red
1998 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This was the big surprise of the evening. Still VERY primary, it exploded with candied red fruits in a well balanced package. Plenty of stuffing to go the distance, if this bottle is representative I think this will surpass all other base CdP cuvees of the vintage. Must get some now.
Flight 3 (2 notes)
With the rest of the Cheeses and some cookies, a couple of sweeties.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2000 Alban Vineyards Viognier Costello
USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
I was pretty much past numerical rating at this point. This was labeled as a Viognier TBA, and was kind of sauternesque. Some shower curtain, casaba melon (or melon anyway), very sweet - with time some acid came out to add a hint of balance.
Closing
It was such a lovely evening of exquisite food, great company, and divine wine. Thank you to the Murrays for hosting and cooking, and to all attendees for sharing great juice and camaradarie. It was a pleasure.
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