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Loire Valley Primer

Wine Exchange - Orange, CA

Tasted July 9, 2009 by Badfish with 1,130 views

Introduction

This was an interesting tasting with some appellations and varieties one does not come across everyday. One thing that was quite apparent is the wide array of unique wines coming out of this vast region. After a tasting like this you can readily see just how complex the Loire Valley is. I hesitate to think how long it will take to get a grasp on all the appellations, grape varieties, terroirs, and producers represented in this part of France.

Flight 1 - Melon de Bourgogne (1 note)

White
2007 Gilbert Chon Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sélection Vieilles Vignes Clos de la Chapelle France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
87 points
Pale yellow with a vibrant mineral infused nose showing notes of citrus, stone fruits, slate, and flowers. Quite steely and slightly earthy in the mouth with obvious mineral character, though lacking substantial fruit presence. Pleasant, minerally, and approachable; exactly the type of experience you look for in good Muscadet.

Flight 2 - Sauvignon Blanc (4 notes)

White
2007 Xavier Frissant Touraine Les Roses du Clos France, Loire Valley, Touraine
88 points
Pale gold with a very unique and interesting nose that has aromas of melon, kiwi, and lime. The palate is high toned with nice acidity, bracing minerality, and flavors of lime and other citrus fruits. Quite unique with excellent character at this price point. This wine is 100% Fié Gris (aka Sauvignon Rosé). Suffice to say this varietal was a first for me and certainly a great experience.
White
2008 Domaine du Adéle Rouzé Quincy France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Quincy
87 points
Very pale platinum tone in the glass along with some spritz. The nose is very grassy in tone with a hint of sulfur, although there are aromas of apricot and chalk. The palate shows more of the same with grassy flavors of stone fruits and minerals leading to a slightly abrupt finish. Certainly unique but I think this wine needs time to come together. 87+
White
2006 Claude Michot Pouilly-Fumé Les Berthiers France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
89 points
This wine is so delicate and so understated on the nose that you just get lost trying to find specific aromas. I did get impressions of white flowers, strawberries, and citrus. The palate opens up with attractive mouth feel and like the nose has tremendous elegance and restraint. The flavors are quite mineral infused and include oyster shell and citrus. This was the most subtle yet seductive dry white of the tasting for me.
White
2007 Gerard & Pierre Morin Sancerre Vieilles Vignes France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
91 points
Pale yellow and very intriguing on the nose with aromas of bees wax, cantaloupe, preserved lemons, and honeysuckle. The palate yields superb texture, fresh acidity, and a great finish. The flavors like the nose are very complex including notes of citrus, flint, and honeydew. This is a very unique wine and the best dry white of the tasting in my opinion.

Flight 3 - Pinot Gris et Romorantin (2 notes)

Rosé
2008 Denis Jamain Pinot Gris Reuilly Rosé France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Reuilly
89 points
This stuff is very interesting, it is a pale yellow pink wine made from Pinot Gris. The nose comes across as a combination of a red and a white with aromas of soft red berries, orange, cinnamon, and herbs. The flavors are attractive and unique with a slight rustic tinge to the spice and red berry character. This offers more complexity and individuality than most rosé type wines you come across.
White
2007 Pascal Bellier Cour-Cheverny France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Cour-Cheverny
87 points
This has a crazy raspberry seltzer explosion on the nose along with tinges of rustic earth, minerals, and mint. The palate is more restrained with a slightly stalky herbed quality to the sweet berry fruit. The finish is short but this wine has enough unique qualities to make it enjoyable.

Flight 4 - Chenin Blanc (3 notes)

White
2007 Sylvie Thermeau Savennières Moulin de Chavigné France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
87 points
When I first smelled this wine I had a feeling it would be polarizing. First off the nose is just crazy with rustic reductive and burning fabric aromas. The palate does yield sweet melon and white cherry flavors along with orange on the finish, but like the nose there is tremendous earth and smoke infusion throughout. I can appreciate the style and quality (and I do like it) but what a crazy dirty wine. 87?
White
2007 Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée de Silex France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
87 points
An attractive nose with sweet citrus and stone fruit aromas supported by flint and minerals. The palate is slightly off dry with flavors of stone fruits and good mineral infusion. Not a lot of complexity showing but pleasant enough. Sort of reminds me of a halbtrocken styled Riesling from Rheingau.
White
2007 Champalou Vouvray Cuvée des Fondraux France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
88 points
Tropical honeyed tones to the aromas which include tangerine, raspberry, kettle corn, and slate. The palate is semi sweet and somewhat simple with slate infused berry flavors. I was hoping for more character on the palate from this wine but it is a solid effort nonetheless.

Flight 5 - Rosé et Vins Rouge (5 notes)

Rosé
2008 Clos de La Briderie Touraine-Mesland Rosé France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Mesland
87 points
Very soft pink in the glass with primary aromas of bubblegum, raspberry, and grapefruit. The palate shows a refreshing sweet and sour contrast to the flavors of raspberry, grapefruit, and watermelon. The fruit is slightly more candied than I would like to see but all in all this is quite an attractive rosé.
Red
2006 François Crochet Sancerre Rouge France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre Rouge
87 points
Bright red purple throughout. The nose is pure yet stemmy with aromas of wild cherry, slate, and smoke. The palate yields nice grip, good acidity, and approachable yet chewy tannins. There are slight hints of bubblegum and cherry flavors but the fruit is hard to get a handle on at this stage. I hope this gains additional fruit, complexity, and suppleness with age. 87+?
Red
2006 Domaine Gouron Chinon France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
89 points
Brilliant dark red purple in the glass. The aromas are very pure and berry driven including notes of blackberry, black currant, and violets. The flavors are fresh and grippy with kind of a berry fruit drink quality. This is certainly approachable but obviously well structured with sweet firm tannins. Somewhat primary now but a stunning value at this price point.
Red
2006 Domaine de Pallus Chinon Les Pensées de Pallus France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
92 points
Vibrant ruby purple to the rim. Right away you can tell the nose is superb as it is very pure and understated but the aromas just waft out. Currant leaf, boysenberry, roses, black raspberry, and underlying minerals. The palate has wonderfully perfumed red berry fruit with subtle earth and mineral nuances to the cherry laced finish. The firm tannins are sweet and fresh giving this wine great balance, structure, and poise. This is an awesome wine and easily the best of the reds in my opinion.
Red
2007 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Galichets France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil
90 points
This offers loads of currants, berries, flowers, minerals, and leaves on the perfumed nose. The palate is very structured with attractive yet gripping tannins which buttress flavors of currant essence and minerals. Not especially approachable at this stage but should be spectacular with some time. 90+

Flight 6 - Le Vin Doux (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2004 Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Clos de Sainte Catherine France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon
92 points
Brilliant light gold in the glass. Quite honeyed and opulent on the nose with oily aromas of apple, honeysuckle, and slate. The palate is very supple and glossy with flavors of honey, apricot chutney, botrytis, and plenty of mineral essence. This wine is well balanced with admirable complexity and restraint.
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