Important Update From the Founder
Read message >
The Grand Crew- French Wines 10 years and older
Lockwood Restaurant, Chicago IL
Tasted September 17, 2009 by KeithAkers with 910 views
Introduction
At the Chicago Art Institute there was a Seminar about the Billionaire's vinegar. So, Ken decided to run with that theme and arranged for 14 of us to have dinner at the Lockwood Restaurant in the lovely Palmer House Hilton. The theme itself was French wines that were 10 years and older, that got divided into flights to pair with the foods, and have a general theme to them
Flight 1 - Opening Magnum of Bubbly (1 note)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Brut
92 points
wasn't able to get a disgorgement date or anything resembling a vintage blend on this. This was out of a magnum
nose: wonderful and deep tones of bread, lemon peels, all sorts of minerals, tart citrus tones, and a good bit of white florals pervate and blend well together. It doesn't jump out of the glass, but instead it seems to meld together while being distinctive at the same time
taste: great medium+ acidity and a beautiful and polished medium feel with tones of lemon curd, minerals, white florals, and a good amount of citrus tones. Very well balanced and distinct at the same time
overall: a great starter bubbly. Nice light color and was very fresh out of the magnum. It didn't give a disgorgement date or at least which vintages were used in it, but there was great depth and purity in it
nose: wonderful and deep tones of bread, lemon peels, all sorts of minerals, tart citrus tones, and a good bit of white florals pervate and blend well together. It doesn't jump out of the glass, but instead it seems to meld together while being distinctive at the same time
taste: great medium+ acidity and a beautiful and polished medium feel with tones of lemon curd, minerals, white florals, and a good amount of citrus tones. Very well balanced and distinct at the same time
overall: a great starter bubbly. Nice light color and was very fresh out of the magnum. It didn't give a disgorgement date or at least which vintages were used in it, but there was great depth and purity in it
Flight 2 - Whites (4 notes)
These were paired into two flights with the Corton Charlie and ZH together and then onto the bordeaux Blancs. All presented different facets which made them extremely interesting on their own, and as a whole was a great way to really kick things off
White
1988 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
94 points
nose: beautifully layered nose that unfolds in the glass with great balanced tones of buttered toast, white florals, fat tones of tangerines, a good helping of nutty tones, hints of clove spice, and pretty tones of peach blossoms. Very well balanced that changes by the minute and provides tones of intrigue at each turn
taste: wonderful medium feel that just glides across the palate with deep and layered tones of white florals, all sorts of white fruits, great underlying mineral tones, peach blossoms, and bits of clove spices
overall: the color was great as it was a good medium gold color. A very lovely and mature Corton Charlemagne that has a way to go as the acidity was a bit sneaky to where you almost didn't notice it, but it would creep up on you. This has a lot of life left in it from a quality producer
taste: wonderful medium feel that just glides across the palate with deep and layered tones of white florals, all sorts of white fruits, great underlying mineral tones, peach blossoms, and bits of clove spices
overall: the color was great as it was a good medium gold color. A very lovely and mature Corton Charlemagne that has a way to go as the acidity was a bit sneaky to where you almost didn't notice it, but it would creep up on you. This has a lot of life left in it from a quality producer
White
1999 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand
93 points
nose: great spicy base on the nose leads into deep tones of green apples, clove spices, sweet tones of navel oranges, bits of peaches and hints of apricots. great depth with loads of class that is hard to fully put into words
taste excellent medium feel and great medium+ acidity with well balanced and very deep tones of various spice tones, green apples, peaches, and a bunches of apricots. Very classy and very deep that makes it very delicious
overall: while this is drinking fine right now, it has a long way to go. The acidity is a perfect compliment right now along with the great flavors that the wine brings. Still has a primary feel to it, so one can drink and be very merry, or can easily hold this longer
taste excellent medium feel and great medium+ acidity with well balanced and very deep tones of various spice tones, green apples, peaches, and a bunches of apricots. Very classy and very deep that makes it very delicious
overall: while this is drinking fine right now, it has a long way to go. The acidity is a perfect compliment right now along with the great flavors that the wine brings. Still has a primary feel to it, so one can drink and be very merry, or can easily hold this longer
White
1999 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc
88 points
nose: somewhat oxidized nose at first that somewhat blows off with tones of carmelized apples, bits of lemon custard, peaches and apricots. Almost like a dry sauternes on the nose with good depth
taste: good medium feel with well balanced tones of carmelized apples, peaches, apricots and some hints of lemons. Comes off as fully mature, and the oxidized tones blow off a bit after sitting in the glass
overall: seems fully mature at this time and may be more on the downside. I enjoyed this wine though as it was very drinkable and opened up in the glass with more time and the color got lighter. While this may not be a long distance runner, it sure it a very enjoyable mature bordeaux blanc
taste: good medium feel with well balanced tones of carmelized apples, peaches, apricots and some hints of lemons. Comes off as fully mature, and the oxidized tones blow off a bit after sitting in the glass
overall: seems fully mature at this time and may be more on the downside. I enjoyed this wine though as it was very drinkable and opened up in the glass with more time and the color got lighter. While this may not be a long distance runner, it sure it a very enjoyable mature bordeaux blanc
White
1999 Château Monbousquet Blanc
90 points
nose: extremely smokey nose strikes right off the bat with tones of lemon curd, bits of custard, and some tart citrus tones with a touch of honey. Good depth adds an extra element, but there is a bit too much toast on the nose for me
taste: the smokey toast continues on the palate with tones of tart citrus', lemon curd, and custard tones. Very polished feel with still present acidity that adds to it and the toast isn't as big as it was on the nose
overall: a quality bordeaux blanc. The smokey/toasty tones haven't seemed to fully integrate and let the good citrus tones shine through as they seem to be hiding underneath the smoke. THe feel is very sexy and polished that one would expect from a Perse wine. It still has a way to go as the acidity was very refreshing and provided a nice spine to the wine
taste: the smokey toast continues on the palate with tones of tart citrus', lemon curd, and custard tones. Very polished feel with still present acidity that adds to it and the toast isn't as big as it was on the nose
overall: a quality bordeaux blanc. The smokey/toasty tones haven't seemed to fully integrate and let the good citrus tones shine through as they seem to be hiding underneath the smoke. THe feel is very sexy and polished that one would expect from a Perse wine. It still has a way to go as the acidity was very refreshing and provided a nice spine to the wine
Flight 3 - Two Clos Vougeots and a CdP (3 notes)
The Prieurs were absolutely beautiful and everything I'd want from a Clos Vougeot. While for right now I slightly preferred the 98, the 96 is the real long haul wine and has stunner written all over it. There was a differing opinion within the group as to who preferred which one, but they were both beautiful
The Clos Des Papes was a great change of pace, but still worked well with the Clos Vougeots. What really came to my mind is, so, this is what Clos Des Papes is like mature, well, it looks like I'm gonna have to start adding some to my collection
Red
1998 Domaine Jacques Prieur Clos Vougeot
93 points
nose: beautiful and lifting nose that is on the verge of intoxicating with round and beautiful tones of red florals, good bits of earthen tones, red cherries, currants, and a good helping of brown spices. A very captivating nose that really draws you in and is just rearing to go right off the bat
taste: just classic clos vougeot on the palate with a real silky and classy with well polished tones of dark berries, earthen tones, brown spices, red cherries, and some soft tones of red florals hide underneath. Great medium+ acidity gives this a real nice spine and adds to the elegance
overall: a beautiful Clos Vougeot. Very elegant that does a great job showing off the vintage and terroir. The nose is what really makes the wine right now, and the palate could catch up a slight bit, but this seems to really be hitting its stride and should be quite enjoyable for a good while to come
taste: just classic clos vougeot on the palate with a real silky and classy with well polished tones of dark berries, earthen tones, brown spices, red cherries, and some soft tones of red florals hide underneath. Great medium+ acidity gives this a real nice spine and adds to the elegance
overall: a beautiful Clos Vougeot. Very elegant that does a great job showing off the vintage and terroir. The nose is what really makes the wine right now, and the palate could catch up a slight bit, but this seems to really be hitting its stride and should be quite enjoyable for a good while to come
Red
1996 Domaine Jacques Prieur Clos Vougeot
92 points
nose: very young on the nose with primary tones of red cherries, earthen tones, dark red fruits, raspberries, and nuanced tones of dark florals. Comes off as fairly primary, but with great depth, and is wide open right now. Very classy, but still holding a slight bit back right now
taste: pretty medium feel with medium/high acidity that one would expect from a 96. Pure silk across the palate with reserved, but fresh tones of raspberries, dark berries, dark red fruits, and a good helping of red cherries along with some spice tones
overall: still very primary and is a marathon wine. This will probably take at least another 6-8 years to really get into the next gear and comes off as a wine that could be a 40-50 year wine in a quality cellar. The primary aspect of it is extremely enjoyable right now, but isn't as evolved as the 98 was before it, which for me was slightly preferred, but it may be a different story in 10 years
taste: pretty medium feel with medium/high acidity that one would expect from a 96. Pure silk across the palate with reserved, but fresh tones of raspberries, dark berries, dark red fruits, and a good helping of red cherries along with some spice tones
overall: still very primary and is a marathon wine. This will probably take at least another 6-8 years to really get into the next gear and comes off as a wine that could be a 40-50 year wine in a quality cellar. The primary aspect of it is extremely enjoyable right now, but isn't as evolved as the 98 was before it, which for me was slightly preferred, but it may be a different story in 10 years
Red
1990 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape
93 points
nose: great and deep nose that just brings the funk straight off the bat with tones of black cherries, liqueur tones, animal hides, and a good helping of dark berries. There is a real good richness to the nose with a ton of balance that just really brings you in
taste: very sexy medium feel with tones of funk, black cherries, all sorts of dark berries and rich tones of liqueur. Good body and well resolved this just glides across the palate well and is well mature, while coming off as having more legs and having a silky finish
overall: a wonderfully mature CdP. This is pure Clos des Papes with the funk that you would expect, but with lots of class. Great depth and polish, this is really fun to drink and should provide plenty of enjoyment for a good while
taste: very sexy medium feel with tones of funk, black cherries, all sorts of dark berries and rich tones of liqueur. Good body and well resolved this just glides across the palate well and is well mature, while coming off as having more legs and having a silky finish
overall: a wonderfully mature CdP. This is pure Clos des Papes with the funk that you would expect, but with lots of class. Great depth and polish, this is really fun to drink and should provide plenty of enjoyment for a good while
Flight 4 - Bordeauxs (3 notes)
A real nice flight with all of the wines showing well and showing off their style and what they can do. Both the 95 and 96 have a ways to go, and the 82 was a real beautiful and mature bordeaux that is in a perfect place right now
Red
1982 Château Haut-Bages Libéral
92 points
nose: beautiful and balanced nose of cedar, red and black currants, red cherries, tobacco tones, and some bits of leather to round it all out. Grew in the glass a bit, but was very on point right from the beginning
taste: great balance and depth with beautiful and mature tones of cedar, black currants, red cherries, tobacco, and leather all blending well together with a great medium feel. Still some slight tannins present to let you know that they are still there
overall: This bottle still possesed great color. Not too much bricking and it had a real good red color to it where you there was some see-through, but it wasn't too light. This bottle is certainly in its prime, but is a far way from falling off too
taste: great balance and depth with beautiful and mature tones of cedar, black currants, red cherries, tobacco, and leather all blending well together with a great medium feel. Still some slight tannins present to let you know that they are still there
overall: This bottle still possesed great color. Not too much bricking and it had a real good red color to it where you there was some see-through, but it wasn't too light. This bottle is certainly in its prime, but is a far way from falling off too
Red
1995 Château Léoville Poyferré
92 points
nose: red currants galore on the nose with lovely tones of red cherries, cedar, tobacco, and hints of red florals. A real lovely and elegant nose that had a real silky pretty quality to it with excellent and classy depth
taste: a real lovely medium/full feel that is very elegant with well balanced tones of red currants, cranberries, red cherries, cedar, tobacco, and bits of red florals. Good tannins give the wine a good spine, and this comes off as just beginning to show what it really has to do
overall: a quintessential st julien that is just starting to hit its stride. This is what I love about Leoville-Poyferre as the elegance of the house is starting to really come out and has really started to enter what should be a good long window
taste: a real lovely medium/full feel that is very elegant with well balanced tones of red currants, cranberries, red cherries, cedar, tobacco, and bits of red florals. Good tannins give the wine a good spine, and this comes off as just beginning to show what it really has to do
overall: a quintessential st julien that is just starting to hit its stride. This is what I love about Leoville-Poyferre as the elegance of the house is starting to really come out and has really started to enter what should be a good long window
Red
1996 Château Lagrange (St. Julien)
92 points
nose: classic tones of cedar, tobacco, black currants, dark red cherries, and sour cranberries with some spice box tones. Much different on the nose then the previous 96 lagrange as it had a more classic 96 nose that is just pure unadulterated bordeaux. Great balance on the nose with great depth
taste: excellent full body with good tannins and tones of cedar, tobacco, dark red cherries, sour cranberries, and a good helping of currants and spice box tones with a touch of leather
overall: still comes off as a bit young as the color is a good dark ruby color. The tannins didn't seem to bite as much as they did previously. Good body and very classic bordeaux, this has an elegance to it, that needs some time to get out
taste: excellent full body with good tannins and tones of cedar, tobacco, dark red cherries, sour cranberries, and a good helping of currants and spice box tones with a touch of leather
overall: still comes off as a bit young as the color is a good dark ruby color. The tannins didn't seem to bite as much as they did previously. Good body and very classic bordeaux, this has an elegance to it, that needs some time to get out
Flight 5 - Two Cornas' (2 notes)
Really, it wasn't fair having the 97 in with the Verset, which is not to say that the Clape wasn't an outstanding wine(it was), its just that the 90 Verset is something else and it was going to pale in comparison. It showed extremely well considering the competition and is a wine that I would gladly have in my glass at any time.
The Verset, well, that's what syrah is about to me, and its got a long way to go. It just still just leaves me shaking my head and leaves you dumbfounded at how great it is. For me, there are few wines out there that can compete with it(so who wants to sell me some, :))
Red
1997 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas
90 points
nose: there is a reserved quality to this nose that seems to be holding it back a bit. Excellent tones of black cherries, animale, dark berries, leather, and liqueur tones with some smoked meats. Isn't extremely wide open, but a more reserved Clape that still is very much cornas and you can certainly smell it from the instant your nose hits the glass
taste: full bodied with well balanced tones of dark berries, animale tones, liqueur, smoked meats, leather, and black cherries. Robust with good tannins on the palate, but the tannins aren't over bearing. Flows well and comes across as fully ready to drink
overall: almost acts like a wallflower Clape. There is the rustic side of it that one expects, but it seems to be holding back ever so slightly, though at the same time is fully in its drinking window
taste: full bodied with well balanced tones of dark berries, animale tones, liqueur, smoked meats, leather, and black cherries. Robust with good tannins on the palate, but the tannins aren't over bearing. Flows well and comes across as fully ready to drink
overall: almost acts like a wallflower Clape. There is the rustic side of it that one expects, but it seems to be holding back ever so slightly, though at the same time is fully in its drinking window
Red
1990 Noël Verset Cornas
96 points
nose: good lord the nose is so deep on this that almost belies words. It smacks you around, but yet is so balanced and just hits you with a 2x4 of rich and insanely deep tones of asphalt, leather, tobacco, animal hides, blackberries, smoked meats, and char grill tones amongst the menagerie of other tones that are hard to really describe. This is near blow away stuff, but at the same time still feels like it wants to give more
taste: Full bodied doesn't fully begin to describe this as its a behemoth on the palate, but with great depth to boot. Good tannins still persist, but aren't obtrusive along with very deep tones of charcoal, tons of bacon fat, smoked meats, char grill tones, black cherries, animal hides, leather and blackberries. Its extremely big on the palate, but yet flows across very well and just doesn't seem to want to stop with the depth
overall: To say that I've been lucky to have this twice in a 6 week span is an understatement. This was a mind bending wine that, while utterly stupendous right now, can easily go a lot longer. This comes across as a teenager and still possesses a dark red color to it. The tannins are still very much there, but they more let you know that they are there as opposed to crushing your palate with them. As good as this is now, I'd love to know how this will be when it hits 30 as it only seems like it's started to really get going
taste: Full bodied doesn't fully begin to describe this as its a behemoth on the palate, but with great depth to boot. Good tannins still persist, but aren't obtrusive along with very deep tones of charcoal, tons of bacon fat, smoked meats, char grill tones, black cherries, animal hides, leather and blackberries. Its extremely big on the palate, but yet flows across very well and just doesn't seem to want to stop with the depth
overall: To say that I've been lucky to have this twice in a 6 week span is an understatement. This was a mind bending wine that, while utterly stupendous right now, can easily go a lot longer. This comes across as a teenager and still possesses a dark red color to it. The tannins are still very much there, but they more let you know that they are there as opposed to crushing your palate with them. As good as this is now, I'd love to know how this will be when it hits 30 as it only seems like it's started to really get going
Flight 6 - Ending Stickies (2 notes)
A Zind-Humbrecht VT to end the night, well, why thank you, I'll gladly have some. Always a treat and shows why Zind-Humbrecht is one of the great domaines/wineries in the world
The Shafer was a nice surprise as it came out of nowhere and certainly was different from the rest. It needs a bit of time to work itself out, but it was a thrill ride of a fortified wine already, would love to see where it goes with time
White - Off-dry
1996 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rotenberg Vendange Tardive
92 points
nose: succulent tones of sweet apricots, honey, a whole lot of melons, and a good amount of delicious green apples all intermingle with each other in well balanced fashion that is a real delight on the nose. Good depth to boot, the nose is sweet without being cloying and has a real class to it
taste: well balanced and tasty tones of green apples, honey drops, apricots, and bits of pears blend well together with good acidity that reigns it in. Good medium feel that isn't too much or overbearing and retains the class that one would expect of zind-humbrecht
overall: the more Zind-Humbrecht I drink, the happier I always seem to be. This is in a terrific spot right now and has lots of class and balance that makes it very enjoyable. Delicious tones on both the nose and palate work well together
taste: well balanced and tasty tones of green apples, honey drops, apricots, and bits of pears blend well together with good acidity that reigns it in. Good medium feel that isn't too much or overbearing and retains the class that one would expect of zind-humbrecht
overall: the more Zind-Humbrecht I drink, the happier I always seem to be. This is in a terrific spot right now and has lots of class and balance that makes it very enjoyable. Delicious tones on both the nose and palate work well together
Red - Fortified
2003 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Port
91 points
nose: massive and explosive nose with rich tones of dark cherries, plums, raisins, anisette, dark chocolate and some bits of syrupy tones(though not bad syrup). Very bold with a good dose of alcohol on the nose as would be expected from such a young fortified wine
taste: big and powerful, but the heat kicks in on the back end. Rich tones of dark chocolate, black cherries, sour cranberries, anisette and plums work well together, but with rich tannins to boot along with a very full bodied feel
overall: very young, but with a good amount of promise. Very interesting to come across a fortified wine like this. Needs some time to fully settle down and be what it wants to be, as it needs a very extended decanting right now. This would be very interesting to taste in another 10 years or so as it balances out
taste: big and powerful, but the heat kicks in on the back end. Rich tones of dark chocolate, black cherries, sour cranberries, anisette and plums work well together, but with rich tannins to boot along with a very full bodied feel
overall: very young, but with a good amount of promise. Very interesting to come across a fortified wine like this. Needs some time to fully settle down and be what it wants to be, as it needs a very extended decanting right now. This would be very interesting to taste in another 10 years or so as it balances out
Closing
This was my first Grand Crew tasting and it was a real blast. Lots of great wine was on hand, along with a lot of good conversation and good food. All of that for a excellent price for the quality of food and service that was provided to us. I wasn't able to make the Seminar a block away due to my class schedule, but was very glad when I was told that an opening for the dinner was possible. Lots of great wine and all of us went home happy