Vinous

• By Antonio Galloni
  Exploring Maremma’s 2003 and 2004 Vintages (Feb 2007) (link)

  (Grattamacco Grattamacco) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  10/21/2008 (link)

  (GRATTAMACCO Superiore) Grattamacco Dear Friends, If you are searching for the best of Bordeaux, this grand dame of Bolgheri will not disappoint - 1990 Ornellaia fans should pay close attention here. Grattamacco has never received the praise they deserve (probably because of their steadfast belief that Sangiovese must be a part of their Grand Vin, not just Cabernet and Merlot) but the wine can be majestic and atmospheric - a representation of the Castagneto Carducci hills among the very best. Revered in Italy at the highest level, this wine was one of the original Cabernet pioneers in the region and only Sassicaia may be able to claim a more stately pedigree. This wine requires age and is the equivalent of something like Ducru Beaucaillou with a dose of Brunello tossed in for good measure. The sum of the parts can be a regal experience and the 2001 is just now starting to hit its stride but it requires additional cellaring to truly show its grandeur. In 2001, Bolgheri enjoyed an even greater growing season than Bordeaux and 2001 is one of my favorite vintages of the last 10-15 in Bordeaux (as evidenced by another 2001 tasted last night that was sublime). The Cabernet dominant Grattamacco has a tobacco and smoking jacket style that will swirl around those that take it under their wing for a show of shows 3-6 more years down the road - I am quite certain it will toast nearly every 2001 Brunello in its path (and it has lower alcohol). While thoroughly enjoyable now, to get the most out of this, think of it as a 2000 Left Bank that deserves its rest but will reward those that have the sense to look forward instead of just to tonight. The winery considers this to be a wine with "very long ageing capacity, but perfectly enjoyable in its youth. Important and complex, with a character strongly linked to its land of origin" - I couldn't have said it better. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for outstanding typicity and natural reflection of site and vintage. ONE PARCEL ONLY AT THIS PRICE directly from the source with perfect provenance: 2001 Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore (Grattamacco) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy7565

• By Jon Rimmerman
  8/30/2007 (link)

  (GRATTAMACCO) Grattamacco Dear Friends, This is probably our best deal of the last several years on high-end Italian wine so I ask that you give this very strong consideration. Usually line-priced with Ornellaia (or slightly under) - the parcel is perfect, the provenance unsurpassed - it’s just the price that’s eye-opening. If you buy First or Second Growth Bordeaux or the first rank of Italian Cabernet-based wines like Ornellaia or Sassicaia, then this is for you. While it’s early to be thinking about year-end gifts for your wine friends, this is a pretty impressive bottle of cerebral red wine... When I first discovered the region of Bolgheri circa 1985 it was like a time warp on the coast of Italy, secluded by a strong series of mountains and mostly uninhabited land from the rest of Tuscany proper. From the coast to Volterra, there was not much and the roads were all circuitous and tough to travel. The Maremma to the south had yet to be realized from a wine point of view and the Pisa sub-region of Tuscany to the north was a bulk wine producer at best. It was here, in this very special coastal climate that a few pioneer wineries had set up shop - most notably Sassicaia and around 1980 a sort of copycat entity backed by Ludovico Antinori - Ornellaia. Ornellaia placed itself just uphill from the vaunted vineyards of Sassicaia around the town of Bolgheri but there was much land of equal or even better provenance than the preceding. Enter Grattamacco - one of Bolgheri’s elder statesman (founded in the 1970’s) and possibly Tuscany’s greatest ageing estate that has yet to have its day simply because they refuse to do one thing - modernize. They refuse to make their wine appeal to critics and that’s just where they have succeeded the most. The first vintage of grand vin was produced in 1982 and this pioneer winery with organic methods, viticulture and respect for nature and non-interventionist winemaking has made them a hero among their competition, as they were unafraid to stay the course with natural methods where others were too scared to try. What goes around comes around and the clock is just starting to strike for this venerable estate - one of only a few in the region that refuses to use pumps or mechanization of any kind in the production of its grand vin (can you imagine a Second Growth Bordeaux risking their vintage because of non-interventionist philosophies?). Grattamacco is as close as you will get to a true Tuscan Bordeaux - not a Tuscan Cabernet trying to be a Bordeaux but a Tuscan Bordeaux. Why? Unlike the other major properties of this region, they use a percentage of indigenous Sangiovese in the blend - usually around 20% depending upon the vintage. This gives the wine superb freshness and red fruit minerality and stature (instead of just dark fruit tannins from the Cabernet). The combination of some of Bolgheri's best Cabernet and Merlot (that could be bottled separately and rank as Ornellaia’s equal) with the Sangiovese component gives this wine the presence of a kingly wine. The 2001 is just stating to evolve and it has loads of life ahead of it. It is firm and alive with penetrating and dense qualities that are kept on a tight-rope made of verve and fastidiously raised fruit. This is a discriminating wine that will shun those that are casual observers - it requires your attention, all of it: This wine ages in an incredible fashion, like it’s top Bolgheri brethren. While an argument can be made that some of the other top estates in he region have changed their style post 1995 to give a more international impression, Grattamacco has stayed true to their ways and those of you that yearn for the splendor of 1985 or 1990 Ornellaia may get your dose of satisfaction right here at a price that should be about the lowest ever offered for this wine anywhere in the world. I don’t usually buy in case quantities but this was too good to pass up. An important estate in the chapters of Italian wine-lore, Grattamacco is an easy estate to support. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price with perfect provenance 2001 Grattamacco (Bolgheri) Superiore Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy9915