Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  6/6/2007 (link)

  (NICOLAS Masson Apremont) 2005 Masson Dear Friends, For those of you that know this producer, you probably won’t even bother reading this as 2005 + Masson = Magic. If you are looking for the very best white wines in Europe, Jean Masson consistently produces the most terroir-specific un-oaked glory from some of the steepest and most difficult land to farm in France. As a portfolio, these compete with Baumard as the very best in 2005. From an obscure native varietal (Jacquerre), Masson gets the most out of each difficult to ripen grape. In 2005, where other classic white wine regions of France produced wines with a leaning toward the over-ripe or unctuous, the Savoie (and Apremont in particular) had what will go down as a perfect vintage. From 1500-2000 ft in elevation on the flank of the ominous Granier peak, the grapes struggle to find sustenance. The result is a set of non-interventionist white wines that defy logic, tantalize and cleanse the palate and the soul. I consider myself lucky to even get the chance to drink these testaments to the study of wine and of the chiseled, solid rock they hold within each bottle. If you could close your eyes and open either of the corks below, you would feel and hear the sounds of the Savoie - one of Europe’s most treasured wine regions. Both of the wines below are outstanding. Both are made from the same miniscule plots on Granier but from different exposures and altitudes. The “Tradition” is the pure crystalline essence of the vintage, a dry Riesling-that-isn’t with mountain flowers, beautiful acidity and only 10-11% alcohol - simply sublime. The “Cuvee Nicolas” is Masson’s artistic take on tradition with a blend of different micro-plots on Granier - it is the equal of the Tradition with a sap, freshness and clarity unmatched by any wine (11% alcohol). The aromatics soar and sing the praise of a place that time long ago forgot. This is a case where you really need to try both wines to hone your understanding of the Savoie (sort of like trying both JJ Prum’s Wehlener-Sonnenuhr and Graacher-Himmelreich). There is so much lithe material here that both will continue to blossom in bottle for another 1-2 years. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - both are EXTREMELY LIMITED: 2005 Masson Apremont “Tradition” Vielles Vignes 2005 Masson Apremont “Cuvee Nicolas” Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR1700 SOFR1600