Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  1/28/2010 (link)

  (ANDREOTTI Montagny 1er) Burgundy Dear Friends, The 2008 Burgundy vintage in the Chalonnaise was a lot like 2008 in Beaujolais - transparent, full of terroir and, for lack of a better phrase, a "thinker's vintage". Where many of the same examples in 2009 are nearly double the price, for those of us that are going to drink the wines in the near-term, I'm not sure the price differential is justified? Michel Andreotti lies in an enviable position in Montagny. Not as far south as the Macon but south enough of Beaune that in a variable year in Puligny or Meursault, Montagny often attains exemplary results. That was the case in 2008 where a balance of climactic conditions gave Andreotti the type of classically styled results that enthusiasts in France seek in a fine wine (not in an everyday wine but a fine wine for everyday). Recently selected by their peers as one of the top growers in all of Montagny (with the best 2008 example of the appellation), this is a property on the rise. With a goal of minimal intervention and lithe, transparent wines Philippe and Arlette Andreotti are a young couple that wishes to introduce the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of Montagny to the world. They are quick to tell you, "this is not the Cote d'Or - this is Montagny!" and they are quite proud of it. Passion can conquer many hurdles and this is a couple bent on running a long-distance race. At their heart, these are honest and real wines without any agenda - they speak to their place with low-alcohol (12.0-12.5% for the Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes and 12.5-13.0% for the 1er Cru blanc), stone, light extract, sound acidity and a Burgundian "wine of terroir" framework (i.e. this is not Marcassin). The 1er blanc below is slightly more full than the red Vieilles Vignes but both are from excellent vineyard sources that deliver fruit that smells and tastes of Montagny. In addition, you can feel good about supporting some of the nicest and most deserving people in the trade. The prices are ridiculously low as well. Can you imagine a California Chardonnay from the equivalent of a premier cru vineyard ? Not a chance. Ditto in the environs of Beaune (in other words this is Andreotti's version of something like 1er Chassagne-Montrachet for $16+. While I'm not going to say it's as good as Chassagne, it's a darn good drink for any night of the week and it only gets better with oxygen). The Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes has a similar price/value. This is a special bottling from very old vines, kept completely separate from their regular Bourgogne Rouge. It sings of delicate red Burgundy with earth and bright acids at the forefront. What sets a wine like this apart from most California Pinot Noir is the wine's focus - mineral, soil, etc versus sweet, sappy fruit. The fact that this is their finest red wine and it's low price tells you a lot about the Andreotti family and their desire to provide the finest Burgundy they can at prices all of us can applaud (it also allows unbridled consumption without much of a care - a refreshing concept for Burgundy). A new discovery with great potential. ONE SHIPMENT ONLY with impeccable provenance directly from the winery cellar: 2008 Domaine Michel Andreotti Montagny 1er Cru (blanc) 2008 Domaine Michel Andreotti Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes (rouge) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg8343 Burg8344