Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  3/5/2010 (link)

  (BOIS DE SIMON Les Reserves) Brulhois Dear Friends, You want something esoteric? How about the "black wine of the southwest - blood of the Garonne"? When blood is referenced in any wine descriptor it captures my attention - not due to a fascination with the sanguine or a Twilight/Vampire Weekend fixation, more for the historic significance. When the old-timers label a wine as "the blood of...", it is truly the essence of its place. For today's offer, that place is the backwater and nearly unknown Cotes du Brulhois - one of France's last frontiers... When paddling upstream, against the current of the Garonne, eventually (after many days journey) you will reach Agen - an inland community northwest of Toulouse and pretty much in the middle of nowhere. The Garonne connects this area to Bordeaux and to the rest of the world via the Atlantic Ocean but the presence of anything other than local history is nowhere to be found. The Cotes du Brulhois lies across from Agen, on the southern bank of the Garonne and as far south as Laplume (I believe?). Eerie and somewhat dream-like, this region is caught between two worlds - that of Bordeaux and Bergerac and that of the Mediterranean. Both make an appearance in the wines and that is where they gain a foothold over many of their peers. How and why ex-rugby player Christophe Avi decided to settle in the Brulhois and make top-rate wine from the abundant gravel soil is something of legend (it certainly helped that his family had land in this region since the early 1920's). What is not up for conjecture is the magnificent nature of his wine - still undiscovered but on its way to the world stage in a hurry. The Brulhois is known for Cabernet and Merlot but also Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Tannat. Christophe believes in Tannat (the principal grape used in Madiran) but in the Brulhois, this rugged and darkly tannic grape takes on a more perfumed and feminine shape. When blended with Cabernet Franc, now we are onto something very interesting indeed. With a seriousness and sense of finesse that belies this unheard of region, Christophe Avi's Bois de Simon has opened the eyes of astute palates in France and now he's about to open yours. These are wines of a special magic and terroir - unspoiled and unadulterated terroir that combines a sense of the Left Bank with that of Madiran and Cahors but also an uncanny streak of Chinon. In other words - something very unique and far more enjoyable in youth than most Cahors or Madiran. 2005 was a terrific year in Bordeaux and likewise in the Brulhois. This wine, the 2005 Bois de Simon "Les Reserves" is a knockout. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Tannat (a nod to the Left Bank, Madiran and to the Loire) this wine has nobility way beyond its price. It calls out for lovers of St. Estephe and the Southwest (but also the above mentioned Chinon) to ponder its virtues over a long and drawn-out evening of food and vinous accompaniment. From naturally grown and vinified grapes, hand-harvested and pressed with the utmost care, the 2005 Les Reserves smells and tastes of gravel and stone but just the right amount of darker extractive sets it apart next to something from the Northern Medoc. The aromatics swirl with tobacco leaf and earth but also rock and a dark mineral tone from the Tannat. An excellent pair with a number of hard cheeses and grilled meats, this wine is a "delightful bruiser" in the way current vintages of Montrose stand out for their rough and tumble structure but wonderful sense of grace and rocky fruit as well. While enjoyable now, this wine should be even better with another 2-3 years of bottle age. A top discovery that will be a household name sooner rather than later (with increased pricing to match). For more information on this wine: http://www.domaineduboisdesimon.com/spip.php?article6 HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for palate coating presence meshed with a distinct sense of breed...all at a price that harkens to the early 1990's ONE SHIPMENT ONLY directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2005 Domaine du Bois de Simon "Les Reserves" (Cuvee Laclede) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR4489