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93 Points

Saturday, April 27, 2024 - Decanted and immediately poured. The faintest hint of bricking just beginning. The combination of sour earthiness, attenuated fruit, intensity and limpidity made me think of the 2007 Raffault Chinon I had a few months ago. Very prominent cranberry flavor with raspberry playing a decided second fiddle. Very strong acidity which, when coupled with a boatload of (fully resolved) tannins, gave this wine a riveting structure. The earthiness eventually turned into an intense graphite scent. Complex, masculine, but for all that it was not at all tiring to drink.
This is not for beginners: the fruit is just too subtle, the acidity just too high, the tertiary just too in your face to appeal to civilians. And its charms are delicate at the same time: I paired this with veal chops and sage — which went together gangbusters — and a side of sautéed aubergines (hey, it was what was in the fridge and the Mrs loves aubergines, sooo…) — and the aubergines just dominated the subtlety of the wine. Pair this with the most refined meat dish you can think of — chaud-froid of chicken, no not kidding — or maybe just have it by itself with water crackers.
This is an intellectual wine — it begs for analysis and discussion, not food and fun. I loved the combination of depth and intensity with high taste transparency. Like no other Margaux I can think of.
Score: 93. Relative to expectations: ++

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