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87 Points

Thursday, December 24, 2009 - So the Cuvée Spéciale now indicates its vineyard source, Les Chétillons, on the label, which has apparently resulted in a $20 price hike over the 1999. Is it worth it? Well, the 2000 has been getting exceptional reviews despite the vintage being considered relatively weak. But I'm not convinced just yet. This is a very characterful Champagne, but it's more bony, more compressed in on itself, and less immediately likable than any Cuvée Spéciale I can remember going back to 1996. It's surprisingly deep-complexioned for a blanc de blancs and you get more bass notes instead of the typical chardonnay brightness, with a slightly wincing bite of the sour. I have no idea how it will develop, but this is the kind of wine I feel needs to bloom and uncoil from the inside out, rather than evolve in flavor while retaining its same general outlines, if it's going to turn into something really satisfying.

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