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94 Points

Tuesday, May 29, 2007 - Mas d'en Compte Blanc is arguably one of the best whites in Spain and deserves wider recognition, even though Robert Parker has already discovered it. You thought Priorat was all about world-class *red* wines. Think again. It's got an absurdly dark, brooding, bronzed golden colour, and a nose of ridiculous complexity, mostly honey, molasses, toasted almonds and cream. The taste is really something special (some writers have called this wine "difficult", which is interesting - for me it's instant, irresistible seduction). It's almost like a white port: marmalade, orange and honey combine beautifully with oak, vanilla and apricots to produce a sensual, decadent, lingering finish. It makes the eyes water with emotion and gratitude. The acidity is just right to guard against excessive sweetness or stickiness. I don't think it's the best vintage - 2003 was a record hot summer with very varied results all over the Iberian peninsula - I think 2001 is the best Mas d'en Compte I've ever tasted, but if you can get your hands on *any* vintage, you should be happy to pay up to $80. This is what wine is all about: unfettered pleasure. Life is too short.

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