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95 Points

Tuesday, March 25, 2014 - From the right addresses, 1993 is unparalleled in modern times, and for Denis Mortet, it may have been the greatest vintage he ever produced. I recall finding myself next to Denis at the Castel Très Girard in Morey-St-Denis in the early 2000s; he was with a customer and serving some of his 1993s and was amazed at how well they were showing and holding -- this was a fortunate event, for it helped to convince Denis to move away from the extracted style that had dominated his wines in the late 1990s.

This wine is from old vines just below the premier crus Champeaux and Cazetiers (Petits Cazetiers) and just outside Mortet's cave. I seem to be catching this wine on the right night -- it is a perfect Burgundy with some age on it with musky aromas and flavors but still red fruits and the pinpoint precision and clarity of the 1993 vintage. It was my privilege to have Rousseau's 1996 Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze at dinner two nights ago, and while those wines will continue to develop to even more greatness, at this moment in time, I cannot say that they are much better than this wine. Oh, how I wish I had a case of this wine in my cellar instead of just this singleton!

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