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93 Points

Friday, August 15, 2014 - Dinner at Park Palace (Park Palace, Grand Park Hotel): We were definitely stepping up with this wine. Poured blind, it was not only clearly the oldest wine that we had so far, but also clearly the most profound and impressive. The nose started out a bit tight when the wine was served too chilled, but as it opened up, it unfurled in layers of aromas: first tropical lycheee, then orange peel and Luxardo cherry liquer; then hints of mineral, a little osmanthus flower, followed petrol and lanolin, and a little hint of sweet vanilla – lots going on here. The palate was perhaps less impressive, but there was still a lovely complexity to it. There was a backbone of really dry, almost steely minerality and a little Chablis-like saltiness underlying mature flavours of orange peel, kumquats, brown pears. It felt old, perhaps fraying a little at the seams, and I have a feeling the wine’s very best days were some years back, but there was still a drive to it, with lovely strength and energy and a nice sense of depth to it all, and plenty of dry extract still present on the minerally backpalate. A true wine of character. Perhaps not the best nor most complete Rangen de Thann that we have had in recent years, but this was still very good indeed. My wine of the night.

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