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95 Points

Wednesday, October 28, 2020 - This initially had me kicking myself for opening it because it was shrill and basically fruitless except for a hint of autumnal apples in the fashion of a wine over the hill or completely shut down. Fortunately it was the latter because two hours or so later it had really blossomed to the point where it wasn't just good, but a real beauty. It turned vividly red-fruited, plush, and velvety, the tannins mostly resolved with just the barest bit of the edginess the site sometimes exhibits left. For the most part this is full and generous in a way that's more like RSV or Suchots than the strictly structured way Chaumes and its neighbors tend to behave. But even as it went from fruitless to generous in the space of two hours, that's where it stopped and it's still a distant way from actual maturity. Ten more years at least.

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