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92 Points

Sunday, December 20, 2020 - We had about half a case of this vintage. It has been in a dumb phase for the past few years, the primacy of fruit fading with no apparent gain in complexity. Finally, it has returned to form. The color has faded slightly, but it’s still pretty dark. Upon decanting, virile aromas of dark fruit and a hint of meatiness arose. After an hour, with Wagyu ribeyes, the meatiness retreated. In it’s place was dark plum and blackberry on an undercurrent of iron and earth. Tannins have softened, but enough acidity remains to cut through the fat just fine. The aggressive oak of its youth is now mellow and integrated; it doesn’t even seem to color the purity of the fruit beyond an accent of actual wood flavor. No mocha, vanilla, or barrel spice notes. About half way through the decanter, a pronounced burst of black pepper blazed into the midpalate, and the finish gained in length. Then the pepper faded, but not the length, and the earth and iron returned. The evolution of the wine is far more interesting than it has been. After the dumb phase, this is showing great life beyond what most here thought possible. Given tonight’s performance, I think this wine will hold nicely for at least a few more years. This producer’s track record for ageability is still being established . . .

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